Integrated Honey Warming Cabinet

[Roola]

Here was my project over the winter, My old honey warming cabinet only took 2 buckets which wasn't great for large batches so i decided to design and build a new integrated unit. I've integrated it into storage racking. It is fully insulated with 50mm kingspan. I have made it fully temperature regulated using an STC E1000 temp controller (I went for the E version as it has a power output for lights which i used to power 4 fans instead for air circulation. It can hold 6 30lb buckets and reliquify in around 12 hours. Well chuffed with it and it has made my life a whole lot easier.

https://ibb.co/ZLsnHt3

https://ibb.co/rxLGJbJ

https://ibb.co/WyB3LQ1

https://ibb.co/dft5ptJ

https://ibb.co/TBmxXh9

 

[enrico]

And well chuffed you should be.

 

[roche]

Nice job - Looks good.

 

[Angry_Mob]

Like the colours, nice job.

 

[Codford]

Looks like a top notch piece of work!

 

[Millet]

Cracking job..but thanks to you.... you now have my head spinning with ideas to improve mine..

 

[Roola]

Cracking job..but thanks to you.... you now have my head spinning with ideas to improve mine..

I can help with advice on things if anyone wants to build something bigger/better. The temperature controller with button to control fans is my favourite part as i can accurately control temperature and it is really tidy. I use one greenhouse heater and on a test run with no honey it took the temp to 52 degrees easily. I generally set temp to around 45 degrees and pump it up a little more for rape. I'm not the greatest craftsman or electrician in the world so quite proud of it

 

[Vortex]

I'm assuming you used a standard 6" mains fan for the air circulation.. in the process of building my own cabinet.. and need to sort out a fan. Was thinking of using a 12v fan coupled to an old laptop psu.

 

[WoodenBeam]

Roola, well impressed with your warming cabinet - great job.

Is there any chance of posting links to the fans & heater that you used?

I'm hoping to construct something over the Autumn/Winter so the info would be much appreciated.

Best regards

 

[Millet]

I can help with advice on things if anyone wants to build something bigger/better. The temperature controller with button to control fans is my favourite part as i can accurately control temperature and it is really tidy. I use one greenhouse heater and on a test run with no honey it took the temp to 52 degrees easily. I generally set temp to around 45 degrees and pump it up a little more for rape. I'm not the greatest craftsman or electrician in the world so quite proud of it

Be very proud..some folk would have to pay a fortune to buy a warming cabinet of that size and quality..

 

[Roola]

Be very proud..some folk would have to pay a fortune to buy a warming cabinet of that size and quality..

That was part of my inspiration. Abelo have a wooden one for 2 30lb buckets for £600... Mine takes 6 buckets and probably cost in total around £400... The wood and insulation being the costliest parts.

I'm using the elitech e1000 controller
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjABegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw1LHLil3ctKR1dN8HG4wFQ8

It is £18 and slightly more expensive than the basic 1000 model but comes with a power out option for lights which you can actually use to wire in your fans. I have 4 120mm fans running from it. The wiring seemed a bit daunting as the instructions you get with it are an absolute joke but I managed to find a decent wiring diagram someone had made online which I can send you if you need it. The fans make a huge difference in liquify time, I've tested with and without.

Another great thing about making this as a 'cupboard' design is that you don't have to lift a lid off (my old design was based around the one shown on the apiarist website but used a computer power supply to run the fans... I got fed up with storing it and having to pull it out of the shelf to open up. As long as you cut the insulation on the doors accurately you lose very little if any heat through them.

 

[AndyJ01]

Brilliant piece of work!! Definitely my winter project to upgrade my existing one bucket cabinet. Well done!

 

[Roola]

I'm assuming you used a standard 6" mains fan for the air circulation.. in the process of building my own cabinet.. and need to sort out a fan. Was thinking of using a 12v fan coupled to an old laptop psu.

I wired a length of mains extension plug female socket to the power output of the temp controller, I then plugged a USB charger plug into that and bought 4 fans that can be linked in series from the one socket.

https://ibb.co/HdmszYr
https://ibb.co/3Wy3tmY

The other socket runs from the heater switch and has the greenhouse heater plugged into it.

 

[youngyoungs]

Roola,
Very nice to see. Like you I got bored with my old version and decided to upgrade. I worked much closer to the Apiarist design, have put mine onto castors so I can run it from the garage where it is stored into the house. I too have run an externsion lead from the programmer and use the sockets to power the heater tubes (2), and a tiny 240V fan (1x AC 220V~240V Metal Cooling Fan 80x80x25mm). I tested with and without the fan, quicker to reach temp and more stable with, but not much.It works a treat, and I am rather proud of my handiwork. Well done you for going to the next level and designing it as a cupboard.

 

[BMH]

I'm thinking of partitioning of part of my log cabin for a heating cabinet, but I was thinking of making it big enough to fit stacked supers to make extracting easier and just for super storage anyway.

Dimensions would be 500mm x 2000mm x 3000mm.

It would be insulated on all sides with 50mm kingspan but I'm wondering how many tubes I would need to get it up to temp.

Maybe 2 x 1500mm (200w).

I'd use the upgraded thermostat and have a couple of fans as well.

Any advice appreciated

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[iann41]

i'd make it 750x2000x3000.

 

[BMH]

i'd make it 750x2000x3000.

any reason why? I was going to put rails on the walls to hold supers (460mm).

Seems like a waste of space at 750mm, and space is limited

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

 

[For want of a better word]

Thanks for the heads up on the new E-1000 controller.
Got one from Mr Wong for £12.50!

My stainless steel refrigeration/chiller cabinet has gone "tits up", as the compressor replacement is over £750 and it is already a well insulated have been having thoughts of turning it into a honey warming cabinet. Already has 2 large fans that were replaced last time the refrigeration engineer called.

The unit is just the correct height and space for my II kit so do not want to move it!

The existing upright American style fridge in the Honey Skibber doubles as a warmer and a chiller running on a STC 1000 controller, with plug sockets to change ( simply) from standard fridge ( set 12 degrees cooling) to a 60 Watt bulb ( set to 34~ 40 heating)
Takes 3 x 20 kilo honey buckets or approx 250 x 8oz hex jars for soft set ( cooling)

Did have a 60W tubular heater which lasted 3 months... 60W light bulbs are cheaper!

Any experiences of using fans to move the air around?

Chons da

 

[Murox]

I'm thinking of partitioning of part of my log cabin for a heating cabinet, but I was thinking of making it big enough to fit stacked supers to make extracting easier and just for super storage anyway.

Dimensions would be 500mm x 2000mm x 3000mm.

It would be insulated on all sides with 50mm kingspan but I'm wondering how many tubes I would need to get it up to temp.

Maybe 2 x 1500mm (200w).

I'd use the upgraded thermostat and have a couple of fans as well.

Any advice appreciated

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

With a known output from the tubes, size of space and known loss of heat through insulation you should be able to work it all out. Fans will be helpful to move air around of course and help spread the heat more evenly. Don't forget to insulate the floor properly as well.

 

[iann41]

any reason why? I was going to put rails on the walls to hold supers (460mm).

Seems like a waste of space at 750mm, and space is limited

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk

Just so that you have a gap between insulation and supers. Stops any damage to insulation when you insert and lift out supers. Didn't know you were short on space. Good luck with the build and post some pics.