Honey Warming Cabinet

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Little more progress this morning. Found an old plastic box to act as an enclosure for the thermostat.
 
Some very minor comments.

I doubt it will make much difference, if the cable connector is good, but I would have run the power cable along the inside of the 'floor' before turning 90 degrees through the floor wall, clamping the cable to that surface to make it even less likely to pull through if abused.

I hope that plastic box is suitable for purpose.

In this instance the STC 800 would likely have been a cheaper option as you do not need the second pair of contacts.

If I were making one now, for a honey house where it did not need to be moved around (much), I would consider making a water bath version with a small circulation pump, as heat transfer is so much faster, compared to air-to-bucket. Time is not really a consideration for the occasional user, however.

But this is looking good. Will there be a false sealed floor? Honey down there will make an awful mess - and it can happen!

RAB
 
Yet to construct a floor, was think of using ceramic tiles with some sand arround the warming cable just to ensure a decent thermal contact.

Will clamp all the wires on the externals to the box.

Yet to add the insulation but will be using 5mm thick foam board lined with silver paper.
 
I would not be adding sand. Dry sand is likely a fair insulator and the sand would leak from any tiny hole and shift to the lowest end when lifting the thing. All ways round, not a good move, IMO.
 
Any suggestions what to use Oliver? Suppose I could use tile cement to take up the 1-2 mm gap between the cable and tile.
 
KISS,
My warming cabinet is a refrigerator , a bulb holder !
I choose between a 40 watt and a 60 watt bulb , depending on ambient !no temp control save bulb size ,works every time :)
VM
 
I suppose one can introduce dehumidifying and use telemetry to keep one informed whilst on the move?
Keep it simple is my motto as indeed is my beekeeping in general :)
VM


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A good option for your heat source is a 1ft 60 watt Tube heater for just under £17 of eBay

A word of warning about the STC1000 controller a lot are a 110 Volt so make sure you get a 230 Volt version.
 
A good option for your heat source is a 1ft 60 watt Tube heater for just under £17 of eBay

A word of warning about the STC1000 controller a lot are a 110 Volt so make sure you get a 230 Volt version.

Good call - suitable for a fridge type warming cabinet after fitting with a thermostat?
 
Keep it simple is my motto as indeed is my beekeeping in general

Unfortunately your design likely falls far below the safety standards expected in this day and age.

No disrespect to the OP but common sense died along time ago, apparently, and parading your design on a forum which the world can see is not entirely without risk of some idiot somewhere, electrocuting themselves or even singeing the hairs on the back of their hand and sueing you for damages (not the afformentioned electrocuted victim, mind).
 
No probs oliver, model is rated at 220v. Also have a degree in Electrical Engineering so should know what I am doing. Still get stung though so dont know what I am doing with Bees!

Decided I will have a look at Maplin for a heat conductive paste to go between the floor and the cable. Know I have a pot of thermnal paste dating back 30 years but not sure if I can find it now, so probably best to buy new.
 
Degree in Electrical Engineering or not, I would advise caution when dealing with heat sink paste! It is highly poisonous unless I've missed a spec change! Certainly your 30 year old sample will be poisonous.
Not a specific warning but general as peeps follow these posts and may fall foul of the stuff!
VM


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I used to dilute silicone adhesive with xylene in an unventilated ,tiny work room !
Oh! Dear!
VM


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