Luckily, sole use of the National box has not happened. It was the box of its time, 1920 - at the time, beekeepers were not taking their WBC hives to orchards for pollination - but Bro Adam did take Buckfast WBC’s up to the heather in a wheel barrow - but he was young and a tough German. Then he converted to single walled hives. And the introduction of the single walled National made limited travelling to Kent orchards more reasonable.
Now that Kent apple growers have local hives for pollination - or so I assume - the whole of UK can settle back and keep bees locally.
Is the moveable National the best for home hobby beekeeping?
In view of the fact that a National hive needs backing up with a second hive or at least a nuc hive for swarmcontrol.
Or do Nat users just let the swarms fly?
“. It was the box of its time, 1920 -“
Is that like much farm equipment still used today?
“In view of the fact that a National hive needs backing up with a second hive or at least a nuc hive for swarmcontrol.”
For the cost of commercially available long hive designs you can buy multiple nationals. Thornes are quoting £378 for a Layens off the top of my head a cedar national can be brought for about £130 or there abouts.This contraption is even more…..£800
https://www.omlet.co.uk/shop/beekeeping/beehaus/
https://hydehives.co.uk/products/long-hiveSo setting aside personal wood working skills you could effectively buy an apiary for the price of some long type hives
If you carry out a demere you require 1 hive. But let’s be honest I’d rather the benifits of a couple of standard hives at the commercial cost of a long hive, quite frankly far more flexibility. Whilst long hives can be built with minimal skill so can standard box types, hence Langstroths simple design with short lugs!
“Now that Kent apple growers have local hives for pollination - or so I assume - the whole of UK can settle back and keep bees locally.”
In your ideal world none move bees? Plenty still go to orchards many go to farms for OSR…Beans…Borage…Clover…Strawberries..Raspberry Quite a number of other seed and fruit crops as well. Plenty of amateur beeks as well.
No the type of beetainer you use does not mean you let your bees swarm…What a load of twaddle unless you are talking of skeps or non movable frame. Rather more to do with what type of beekeeper you are?
Returning to your previous posts and thanks for posting the picture of free hanging….but it’s just another frame it’s still your hated rectangle and looks very similar to standard frames I’ve seen in some beeks hives. Not even sure how free that wax was, looked attached on three edges to me!
Also any chance of addressing these previous questions.
“To do that bees need to perform dances which vibrate the lower parts of free-hanging brood frames. Forcing bees to fill rectangular frames with solid rectangularslabs of brood frustrates dancing.”
2…..So kept colonies should struggle to find food? Why then do kept hives produce more off a surplus. What evidence do you have that wild colonies outperform those looked after by beekeepers.
“the colony still collects/stores honey for its winter survival that can be ‘stolen’ by beekeepers - and substituted with plain manufactured sugar that lacks all nutrients. Bees survive of course - or most do but winter losses in hives exceed winter losses in natural unrobbed cavities.”
3…What evidence do you have that Winter losses of kept bees exceed wild bees……Absolutely rubbish!
“What other farming equipment of 1920 is still in use today?”
4…… errrm.. The Ploug, Harrow, seed drill, wheel barrow, Shovel.
Many of us that have had bees for a period have had bees in many hives and containers I’ve had plenty of long type boxes….Some have advantages over others but why all the flim flam, BS and claims of exploitation.