Gasvap competitor.

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It seems this company is based in Slovenia, the American voiceover is a tad misleading.
Seems they are a bee equipment developer and software developer according to their website.

https://www.vermis.si/
 
It looks like a refined version of the GasVap at €178 v's £99.50. If I was feeling flush I'd be sorely temped to get an InstantVap however, that's even more at €359...
 
It looks like a refined version of the GasVap at €178 v's £99.50. If I was feeling flush I'd be sorely temped to get an InstantVap however, that's even more at €359...
The Instavap looks to be the monkey's potatoes of Oxalic acid treatment gadgets.
I expect/hope, one day, a more affordable equivalent will be the way we all sublimate.
 
The Instavap looks to be the monkey's potatoes of Oxalic acid treatment gadgets.
I expect/hope, one day, a more affordable equivalent will be the way we all sublimate.
Everything I've read or seen about it is super positive. I'm on my second season with the GasVap & I do find it problematic / temperamental at times - i.e. it just won't work. Playing around with how far I put the butane torch into the GasVap tube & how much gas I burn seems (I think) to help me at least.
 
Do you know if it's possible to acquire a poly tube for the GasVap?
I'm planning to GasVap for the first time, this Sunday, into poly hives.
Do it from the top through the hole in the crownboard - I made this bit of kit but you could make something simpler. The alternative is to make an eke with a hole in the side, whip the existing crown board off, put the eke on, vape and leave 2 minutes - remove eke, replace crown board, jobs a good 'un.
 

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One advantage might be the polythene insertion tube - maybe less likely to clog than the copper GasVap extension? and less likely to singe the poly - I've damaged/melted the poly a couple of times. Thinks🤔: I might try a poly tube attached to my GasVap.
The flexible tube is not polythene, it will be a high-temp resistant silicone.
 
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Do it from the top through the hole in the crownboard - I made this bit of kit but you could make something simpler. The alternative is to make an eke with a hole in the side, whip the existing crown board off, put the eke on, vape and leave 2 minutes - remove eke, replace crown board, jobs a good 'un.
That's great. Thanks for posting. I'll try and make something on Saturday.
 
Everything I've read or seen about it is super positive. I'm on my second season with the GasVap & I do find it problematic / temperamental at times - i.e. it just won't work. Playing around with how far I put the butane torch into the GasVap tube & how much gas I burn seems (I think) to help me at least.
I made a small modification to my gas vap by cutting away some more of the copper tube which attaches to the oxalic chamber. This provided easier escape flow of the hot burnt gases from the flame and made the flame more stable while still playing onto the side of the chamber.
 
I made a small modification to my gas vap by cutting away some more of the copper tube which attaches to the oxalic chamber. This provided easier escape flow of the hot burnt gases from the flame and made the flame more stable while still playing onto the side of the chamber.
Could you post a photo of your modified GasVap - I have a similar problem
 
Could you post a photo of your modified GasVap - I have a similar problem
I simply enlarged the "slots" where the flame and hot gases could escape after contacting the section holding the OA crystals. A few weeks ago I purchased a different blow lamp for a job in the workshop so spent a while playing with a few plumbing fittings and a Dremel tool. Not having silver soldering or brazing facilities I bodged the bits together with stainless steel pop rivets. I've not yet completed the vapour exit tube but this idea gives opportunity to see the flame playing on the heating chamber. I might fit a fibrfrax heat shield to protect a polyhive as I refine ideas.
 

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