fogging varroa

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Joined
May 6, 2012
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Location
grays, essex
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does anyone here use a fogging machine against varroa
watched a utube clip from the fatbeeman,

http://youtu.be/-crv868VZHU

I'm presuming that this treatment can be done with no effect to honey, unlike the other commercial varroa treatments that seem to be done after honey is removed

I like this idea for a few reasons, being a pest controller I already have one of these fogging machines, have just ordered some white mineral oil, in pest control we always look at the minimum chemical treatments first before moving up to harder chemicals, save introducing harmful substances to non target species and the environment

now the way I'm looking at it, and I could be wrong so please tell me if I am, but the shop bought varroa treatments are done after removing honey, therefore it must do something that's not good for eating honey, plus it seems to be done only at end of year

dusting with sugar sounds great, but it only makes the bees groom each other, varroa fall off, OK if you have a mesh floor, but I'm sure they could and do climb back on

now with any pest species, that your trying to control your trying to break the breeding cycle, do that and your controlling the problem, when you have tics on your dog, a simple way to remove them is covering with petroleum jelly, as they do not breath through their mouths (this is latched onto the host) but breath via the legs, your therefore suffocating the tic, DEAD

fogging with a mineral oil will give the same effect on the varroa, it will fall off DEAD, and fogging every 3 weeks, will break the egg/varroa cycle, seemingly throughout the year, rather than just at the end off
 
Putting mineral oil into a food system is ? potentially injurious to all concerned.

There are additives in many oils.
 
Food preparation
Food grade mineral oil has an E number of E905a, although it is not approved in food stuff in the European Union, and incidental amounts in foods are carefully regulated.[


http://tinyurl.com/eoy5x
 
No doubt you will have noted that the person concerned is in the States.

Someone earlier this week decried some information via Utube, and this to me is another example, and further this person on Utube not that long ago was mentioned in a less than positive light for another matter.

If you want to trawl for bee stuff remember that bottom feeders are often full of... stuff you dinna want on your plate which is why I am not keen on shellfish.

PH
 
fogging varroa are a menace ! if left untreated the fogging varroa will destroy your colony.
 
does anyone here use a fogging machine against varroa

I was very taken by the idea of fogging when it was first developed by Dr. Pedro Rodrigues; however he found that to get any degree of efficiency he was having to add thymol in the form of impregnated strands of cotton and the frequency of fogging treatments had to be increased.

The general opinion was that this process was not effective ; One Irish beekeeper tried a trial and at the end of the year treated the fogged hive with Apistan (or Bayvarol) I forget which and had thousands of mite die from the pyrethroid.
Also if you are using the fogger for dispensing insecticides in your normal work how are you going to make absolutely sure that there are residues from that when you go to attack the bees.
Ruary
 
I was very taken by the idea of fogging when it was first developed by Dr. Pedro Rodrigues; however he found that to get any degree of efficiency he was having to add thymol in the form of impregnated strands of cotton and the frequency of fogging treatments had to be increased.

The general opinion was that this process was not effective ; One Irish beekeeper tried a trial and at the end of the year treated the fogged hive with Apistan (or Bayvarol) I forget which and had thousands of mite die from the pyrethroid.
Also if you are using the fogger for dispensing insecticides in your normal work how are you going to make absolutely sure that there are residues from that when you go to attack the bees.
Ruary

I thought the Irish called them "fegging varroa" ?
 
Also if you are using the fogger for dispensing insecticides in your normal work how are you going to make absolutely sure that there are residues from that when you go to attack the bees.
Ruary

the fogger was not/is not used for insecticides, its used instead of a petrol strimmer engine to add smoke via another mineral oil to rats burrows, flushing them out to the waiting dogs:)
plus its a clean bowl/container, but can understand your concerns
 
Gee, thought this old chestnut had been put to bed long ago..............must be at least 7 or 8 years ago (more?) that it was fashionable to treat with FGMO administered with a Burgess Fogger.

It does not work. It was an idea developed by Dr. Pedro Rodriguez, and went through many changes to methodology, and many excuses of 'you must not be doing it correctly'.

It was applied by fogger, or by beading along the topbars, or by beeswax and FGMO impregnated cords, or by combinations. Eventually thymol was added too, and then, and only then, was there any effect noted in experiments carried out other than by Dr. Pedro himself..

Of course it was the FGMO that did the control, not the thymol. Yeah right.
 
the fogger was not/is not used for insecticides, its used instead of a petrol strimmer engine to add smoke via another mineral oil to rats burrows, flushing them out to the waiting dogs:)

and this is legal?
 
sorry, I thought by your forum name you caught them, not tore them apart with dogs. :(
 
sorry, I thought by your forum name you caught them, not tore them apart with dogs. :(

funny how some people see pest control
you'll get the nicest,would'ent hurt a fly or say boo to a goose type customer, all that goes out the window when they have a pest problem, be it rodent,squirrels,cockroaches etc, they dont want the nice approach, they want DEAD...
even if you thought by my name I caught them, what did you think happened then????
release into the countryside, putting the problem onto someone elses land?
some may say that poisoning rats that then take a day or two to die, via internal hermoraging, is a worst way than being grabbed in a dogs jaws to be dead within seconds
but enough about pest control, this is a bee forum....
 
even if you thought by my name I caught them, what did you think happened then????
release into the countryside, putting the problem onto someone elses land?
some may say that poisoning rats that then take a day or two to die, via internal hermoraging, is a worst way than being grabbed in a dogs jaws to be dead within seconds
but enough about pest control, this is a bee forum....

as someone who grew up next door to a pig rearing unit, I'm fully aware of the problems that infestations of rats can cause. the neighbour spent a lot of time making sure that rats had no-where to live, and that there was no access to food stores, thereby keeping the population of rats to a minimum.
I know that poisoning is not the best way of killing rats, and that releasing any vermin onto another's land is illegal.
I also know that if you create a rat-shaped hole in the universe, it'll probably be filled by a rat again!
I thought they'd be shot, but obviously this isn't as much 'fun' as watching dogs tear them apart.


anywho, back to bees, eh?
 
when you have tics on your dog, a simple way to remove them is covering with petroleum jelly, as they do not breath through their mouths (this is latched onto the host) but breath via the legs, your therefore suffocating the tic, DEAD

fogging with a mineral oil will give the same effect on the varroa, it will fall off DEAD, and fogging every 3 weeks, will break the egg/varroa cycle, seemingly throughout the year, rather than just at the end off
To return to the original idea, any effective treatment has to have a disproportionate effect on the mites compared with the bees. Dogs and tics are different enough to give several possibilities. Mites and bees are all arthropods and breath through holes in the outside surface. You would have to find a level of fogging that kills mites but not bees. That level might exist but even if it did, fogging is hard to control precisely in droplet size and density throughout a hive, chances are you hit some bees.

As you also point out, fogging is not going to affect mites in brood cells so you would need to return every week or two. In three weeks the mites you missed will have eggs safely in cells again.

As ITLD wrote, it has been tried but no evidence it works.
 
fogging

I decided to go the fogging route this year, adding spearmint oil to the food grade mineral oil in the fogger, works a treat+ leaves bees lovely & shiny, also encourages bees to clean floor.
after third treatment couldn't see any varroa-bees gone into winter clean.
Will post results in the spring when I do first inspection-hopefully with happy healthy bees.
 
I decided to go the fogging route this year, adding spearmint oil to the food grade mineral oil in the fogger, works a treat+ leaves bees lovely & shiny, also encourages bees to clean floor.
after third treatment couldn't see any varroa-bees gone into winter clean.
Will post results in the spring when I do first inspection-hopefully with happy healthy bees.

I did not treat with a fogger and my bees had minimal varroa: That's the third year with no fogging and healthy bees.

Which proves? :)
 

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