extractor modification...

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Mikeb123

House Bee
Joined
Sep 2, 2012
Messages
192
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0
Location
Rainham, kent
Hive Type
14x12
Number of Hives
2
Hi all,

I have just received a stainless steel 4 frame manual extractor. I believe it's from china and the frame holders seem to be of an odd size. I can modify it so a shallow frame fits, my question is if a was to use wire to add extra supports to hold the frames could copper be used? I'm thinking of what the honey can touch for edible purposes.

also how do I go about sterilising the drum and cage before use?

Many thanks
 
Ok thanks.

Also this being my first extractor I'm not sure if this is right... the outside and the base inside the drum are highly polised stainless steel but the drum inside is not polised but a dull grey, is that normal? I thought it should all be polised..
 
do you have a link to the extractor you bought?

Is it food grade stainless steel?
 
also how do I go about sterilising the drum and cage before use?

I put the hose from my wallpaper stripper in the honey valve at the bottom and give it a good steam clean before use. Helps to have a good sealing lid though. And you then have to dry it.
 
I think someone on here bought one of the Chinese ones and sent it back, as it started rusting in places. At that price I wouldnt expect it to last very long, I hope I am wrong for your sake though.
 
What you have to watch is any metal that is not stainless steel or galvanised. Even screw heads can cause problems, the problem is that the metal reacts with the honey and turns black, any residue of this left in the machine will put black streaks into your honey if not washed and dried thoroughly after use. I have a thorns extractor that has a screw holding the plastic coated base to the plastic drum, even that gives streaks if I am not careful!
Sometimes you get what you pay for in life! Hope it works out ok
E
 
What you have to watch is any metal that is not stainless steel or galvanised.

Galvanised might have been OK back in the day, but it is no longer satisfactory for official food safety purposes.
 
has anyone had bad experiences with the Abelo electric extractors, rusting etc?
 
Try the magnet test (a fridge magnet will do). If the magnet sticks to the so called stainless steel I will bet its not food grade stainless. Food grade stainless is not magnetic.
 
I have 2 Abelo 20 framers, they run fine and are well built. no rusting after 3 years use but I'm a clean freak with our extraction room and euipment. The only issue with them is the motor is a little weak but if they give way I will replace with a bigger one.
All the best. AB
 
Most highly polished stainless steel extractors have when new a thin plastic film to protect them in transit, it could be the film has not been removed from the inner surfaces, I would suggest a little scrap near the top rim to see

it should be entirely stainless steel especially internally and the picture on £ebay seem to indicate this, why not contact the £bay suplier
 
I bought a Chinese extractor second hand from somebody on the forum. The gears didn't last five minutes so it's worse than useless. I've tried to get them replaced, but getting the money to the manufacturer was an issue and they no longer respond to emails, which is a bit disappointing.

my question is if a was to use wire to add extra supports to hold the frames could copper be used? I'm thinking of what the honey can touch for edible purposes.
Could you use fishing line?

As for cleaning it before use - I tend to wash new stainless steel with very hot soapy water, and then rinse it a few times because there's often a very thin layer of dark grease. Never sure if it's intentional or if it's from machining.
 
The association has what looks to be a similar model.

There's no need to add anything extra to the cage, just load it symmetrically with two or four frames. That is, make sure you have the frames the same way round and balanced on each side. Put them at the trailing end of the box as it rotates (for example). Once it starts moving the forces keep the frames in place. Being tangential, you do have to gently spin to remove some honey from the first side, stop and reverse the frames to extract the other side, spin again then stop and reverse the frames again to get the last of the honey on the first side. Bit of a faff. Otherwise starting with a vigorous spin can break the comb.

Weak point is the gears, or rather the bearings. It doesn't take much force and regular use to wear the gear mechanism enough to get slipping.

Clean it with washing soda in cold water. Hot water melts any wax flakes and that just make it harder to get off. The equipment needs to be clean but honey is not sterile.
 
I think someone on here bought one of the Chinese ones and sent it back, as it started rusting in places. At that price I wouldnt expect it to last very long, I hope I am wrong for your sake though.

Hopefully Mike your bees will do well and once you are up to c. 4 hives you may be able to upgrade your extractor with profit from honey sales - I'm sure that's how most of us progress.
 
"There's no need to add anything extra to the cage, just load it symmetrically with two or four frames. That is, make sure you have the frames the same way round and balanced on each side. Put them at the trailing end of the box as it rotates (for example). Once it starts moving the forces keep the frames in place"

what you can do is add some cable ties to the verticals - the loops can be slipped over lugs top and bottom to hold any size frame in place.
 
I put the hose from my wallpaper stripper in the honey valve at the bottom and give it a good steam clean before use. Helps to have a good sealing lid though. And you then have to dry it.

I don't know what extractor you have but be careful you don't get it too hot as this could melt the grease out of sealed bearings and damage seals
 
I don't know what extractor you have but be careful you don't get it too hot as this could melt the grease out of sealed bearings and damage seals

Thanks, I hadn't considered that, but it's an old Thorne one with nylon bush type bearings and no seals so not a problem.
 

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