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Hi , I’m a new member hoping to start my bee keeping journey soon.
I’m in a similar position with a paddock next door to me and my neighbour has kindly agreed to be allow a couple of hives on his land . I have just fenced off an area and he has now had an enforcement notice from the council. I spoke to the officer who had said bees are not allowed on paddock without a change of use of the land as they are not agriculture.
Any advice or thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I have spent a hugs amount on fencing and may have to take it down.
That's nonsense, surely? Is not the National Bee Unit part of Defra or similar government body? Maybe seek advice from the NBU and BBKA. If the advice is in your favour get your local county councillor involved.
 
All the replies are excellent. I’m just starting out and have found that whilst I read and read and then did the basic bee keeping course, not a lot of it made sense until I went to an apiary, got hands on, saw the frames and could actually see clearly the difference between drone brood, capped honey and worker bee brood and understood how the bees use the hive. Getting in with an established group of bee keepers, and/or having someone you can go to with questions and for advice, is priceless. Good luck!
 
I'm starting to create a shopping list of things I'll need next year.

One question I have - do National and Langstroth hives have any interchangeable parts or are they completely incompatible? (e.g., would I be able to use shallow frames in both, or do I need specific Langstroth shallow frames versus specific National shallow frames.)

Are there any advantages/disadvantages of National or Langstroth that I should be aware of? I know the National hives have less space in the brood chamber, but is that size a disadvantage or does it not really matter?

Thank you!
 
One question I have - do National and Langstroth hives have any interchangeable parts or are they completely incompatible?
completely incompatible - different size and shape, Langs being rectangular and Nats square
 
Here's my shopping list so far:

2 National 14x12 Hives (each comes with varroa floor, crown board, roof and entrance blocks)
2 National hive stands
2 queen excluders
2 dummy boards
4 extra super frames
22 National 14x12 frames with foundation
88 shallow SN4 frames with foundation
Hive tool
Smoker
Smoker box
Smoker fuel
Frame cleaning tool
Ratchet straps
2 mouse guards
2 bee suits (one for me and one for my wife)
Nitrile gloves

Anything else that I might be missing? This is obviously some time off, but I'm one for planning ahead.

Also, when would be a good time to look at getting my first colonies? (I have my beginner course in February.) I'm aware that there's ni point getting any now, just before winter.

Thanks :)
 
How competent are you at woodwork?
Not very, unfortunately. I've got a condition that affects my hands, so I'd struggle with constructing anything myself.
 
you are going to pay through the nose if you can't even put together your own frames and insert foundation. Do you think you could manage that? only requires a Stanley knife, a set square and a small hammer
As for hives etc, Maisemore's and Thornes do a good line in pre built 'second quality' (a misnomer really) at a more realistic price, but if you can manage to make your own frames (not very difficult to do) it's better to buye them in flat packs of 50 'second quality' during their sales.
 
I might be able to deal with the frames myself, as I've watched a few YouTube videos on that. It'll be anything else that's likely beyond me. Even the flat-pack hives looked a bit daunting. (Plus I want them to last! :ROFLMAO:)
 
I might be able to deal with the frames myself, as I've watched a few YouTube videos on that. It'll be anything else that's likely beyond me. Even the flat-pack hives looked a bit daunting. (Plus I want them to last! :ROFLMAO:)
Don't buy flat-pack then......or if you do, buy Swienty polyhive parts which are unbelievably quick and simple to make in comparison with timber.
Abelo boxes and other hive parts are even better and are ready-made, and to a very high standard of precision at that.
I wish I had known about polyhives prior to starting beekeeping; my first set of wooden boxes were a nightmare to put together....and I am very handy.
The assumption people make, and especially sellers of bee equipment, is that new beekeepers are already familiar with the equipment and that assembly should therefore be intuitive. When my first hive kit arrived, even making frames stumped me and I had to remake them all when I realised the Hoffman "V" should face opposite directions....I didn't even realise the relevance of the groove for foundation as I had unknowlingly ordered it with plastic foundation (three years later it's still sitting in its packaging in a drawer).
You might even want to try plastic frames, which can also come pre-assembled; I'm experimenting with a few of them next season, slightly less expensive than simply burning money. ;)
 
I might be able to deal with the frames myself, as I've watched a few YouTube videos on that. It'll be anything else that's likely beyond me. Even the flat-pack hives looked a bit daunting. (Plus I want them to last! :ROFLMAO:)
frame building is the most important thing to get proficient in as you will constantly need replacements whilst the first brood boxes and supers you buy (unless expanding your stock) whether wood or poly should last you a lifetime. That's why I said to go straight for a 50 frame 'second quality' flatpack as, although shallow frames may last you, you will need to replace some occasionally and you will certainly go through more than 22 deeps.
Also, a pack of 50 second quality frames will probably cost a little less than 22 standard quality ones
 
You need a moderate amount of manual dexterity (even for a basic i nspection) and diy skills to get by.
Bees will throw up challenges that often need action asap and there wont be time to wait for the DPD van.
As jenko alludes to frame building would be a good measure of your abilities
 
I might be able to deal with the frames myself, as I've watched a few YouTube videos on that. It'll be anything else that's likely beyond me. Even the flat-pack hives looked a bit daunting. (Plus I want them to last! :ROFLMAO:)
If dexterity is a problem you might think about a frame gripper to lift frames out for inspection holding the frame with one hand. They often get included with beginners kits then never used. https://www.amazon.co.uk/KINGLAKE-G...t=&hvlocphy=1006576&hvtargid=pla-309887323575
 
I wish I had known about polyhives prior to starting beekeeping; my first set of wooden boxes were a nightmare to put together....and I am very handy.
Thanks for this. I've just taken a look at the Abelo 12 frame poly hive. Very interesting!
Also, a pack of 50 second quality frames will probably cost a little less than 22 standard quality ones
I think I'll go this route.
 
Thanks for this. I've just taken a look at the Abelo 12 frame poly hive. Very interesting!

I think I'll go this route.

PS. I've no experience of the twelve frame version but I think the standard eleven frame that is directly interchangeable with the standard wooden system is a better bet. The stepped lip on the newer type will make placement of boxes a trickier task with a busy hive and a new beekeeper.
 
Don’t discount making your own stuff. I started hammering together some old 4x2 to make ekes and then got addicted. I’ve now made a 14x12 nucleus box from an old cupboard, mesh and some shutter ply and got my hives flat pack which taught me a lot about how the hives work and how the bees move about, the flat packs come with instructions and aren’t difficult - honestly. I’m rubbish at most DIY but managed it and the mistakes I made taught me things and weren’t irreversible.

One thing I read recently is about the super frames: if you have metal runners rather than castellations on the supers, you can have fewer frames but fit them with drone foundation: you will have fewer but fatter, fuller frames to make it easier for harvesting.

If you are just starting, probably don’t put the foundation in your super frames just yet as you may not need them on a 14x12 National unless you get a large stablished colony to start with (maybe not for a year), it will take them a while to fill the deeper brood frames and the foundation in your frames may go dry or unusable. Keep them all wrapped up tight till you need them. It doesn’t take long to put them in.

Hope I’m not talking nonsense 😁
 
PS. I've no experience of the twelve frame version but I think the standard eleven frame that is directly interchangeable with the standard wooden system is a better bet. The stepped lip on the newer type will make placement of boxes a trickier task with a busy hive and a new beekeeper.
Thanks. I just looked at a review of those and yes, I think they're be a bit tricky for me as a newly. I took at look at the 11 frame Abelo poly hive and it worked out cheaper, so better for the beginner and better for the pocket.
If you are just starting, probably don’t put the foundation in your super frames just yet as you may not need them on a 14x12 National unless you get a large stablished colony to start with (maybe not for a year), it will take them a while to fill the deeper brood frames and the foundation in your frames may go dry or unusable. Keep them all wrapped up tight till you need them. It doesn’t take long to put them in.
Thanks for the tip. :)

Following a few comments in this thread, all the frames I'm adding to my shopping trolley are now flat packed and I've ordered frame nails. I may as well have a go!
 
This might be a silly question, but I'll ask it anyway... With the 11 frame poly hives, do you still need a dummy board?
 

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