Brood and a half

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And who keep bees as "moving frames around".
Dead easy Finamn...just keep moving full honey frames upwards. Try it...you'll be pleasantly surprised if you are running all on medium langstroth.
 
Dead easy Finamn...just keep moving full honey frames upwards. Try it...you'll be pleasantly surprised if you are running all on medium langstroth.

My hives produce 80 -150 kg honey per hive. Boxes are 8-9.
I have moved boxes up 50 years. Full boxes upwards and empty boxes over the brood. I do not move frames here and there.

I am happy to move heavy boxes . Empty boxes makes me cry.

I am not going to try to move frames upwards.
Bees fill frames with honey from top to downwards. They do it.
 
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Well said!

See below:
If I move from brood and s half to double brood is it ok to use the ‘half’ (super) as a honey super as it will have previously had brood in. Obviously if old or black I wouldn’t use. Does brood comb affect the taste of honey?
 
If I move from brood and s half to double brood is it ok to use the ‘half’ (super) as a honey super as it will have previously had brood in. Obviously if old or black I wouldn’t use. Does brood comb affect the taste of honey?

Most will have different opinions, but provided there is no brood at all in the comb and has only had brood in for a cycle or two, my answer would be yes it is OK, and I think the majority would agree.
Finman - depends on how you run your hives. I use queen excluders and never extract from the brood chamber. Prefer to leave them that honey. The amount of my honey crop is not of paramount importance, but the welfare of my bees is.
 
Most will have different opinions, but provided there is no brood at all in the comb and has only had brood in for a cycle or two, my answer would be yes it is OK, and I think the majority would agree.
Finman - depends on how you run your hives. I use queen excluders and never extract from the brood chamber. Prefer to leave them that honey. The amount of my honey crop is not of paramount importance, but the welfare of my bees is.

You keep your opinion. To overwinter bees with honey. It is very modern attitude: Catch and release. I recommend that you extract your yield and give the extra honey to poor families.


most unnecessary in the world
beekeeping without extracting yield.

My hives need 20 kg sugar over winter. Value is 12€
20 kg honey has value 200 €.

And honey has nothing to do with wellfare of overwintering bees. It is pollen which has meaning in nutrition.
.
 
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Hi Finman,
Do you feed a pollen substitute to get the bees started in Spring?
If so, when do you feed it.

I have done it since 1990.

I start 3 weeks before willow starts blooming. When first workers emerge, they get fresh pollen from nature. Patty has protein in relation
pollen : dry yeast : soya flour 1:2:1

Willows start mostly first of May and continue 3 weeks.

IT is nice to look even, healthy, fatty brood combs in spring.
.
 
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Most will have different opinions, but provided there is no brood at all in the comb
and has only had brood in for a cycle or two, my answer would be yes it is OK, and
I think the majority would agree.
I would go further in putting "the minority do not know".
There is an element of risk in using honey from broodcomb, at all.
But way less if only one or two brood cycles, and that in a known habitat.

Finman - depends on how you run your hives. I use queen excluders and never
extract from the brood chamber. Prefer to leave them that honey. The amount
of my honey crop is not of paramount importance, but the welfare of my bees is.

Ditto, and from best memory of interaction with other Aussie b'keeps tis just
how it is done here [.au]. I cannot fathom how ol' Fin is so entrenched in
getting it wrong for 50 years, on many a basic topic...has to be a Vit.D
deficiency I reckon :rolleyes:

Bill
 
Fin is so entrenched in
getting it wrong for 50 years, on many a basic topic...has to be a Vit.D
deficiency I reckon :rolleyes:

Bill

That is my secret. I do not so as most of beekeepers do. That is why I get 2-3 fold bigger honey yield that average.

My goal is not to be average. I want to be best.

I do not have pet bees. They are slaves.

But the end is near when I get wintering and insulation advices from Australian tropical jungle. We have here at night -10C and by day -4C. IT is spring now.

.
 
Fin is so entrenched in
getting it wrong for 50 years, on many a basic topic...has to be a Vit.D
deficiency I reckon :rolleyes:

Bill

That is my secret. I do not do as most of beekeepers do. That is why I get 2-3 fold bigger honey yield that average.

My goal is not to be average. I want to be best.

I do not have pet bees. They are slaves.

But the end is near when I get wintering and insulation advices from Australian tropical jungle. We have here at night -10C and by day -4C. IT is spring now.

.
 
with other Aussie b'keeps tis just
how it is done here [.au].

Bill

How it is done there.... We have maximum yield season 6 weeks and Aussies have 11 months.

Here 8 months are such that there is no flowers in nature.

Your wintering advices are interesting.
.



.
 
More of the same.

Posters trying to emulate Finman, but living in a different climate. Posters trying to make out that Finman is wrong in harvesting honey? I happen to leave proper honey for winter stores ( ikely a lot of ivy) and rarely need to feed in the autumn or winter. Finman gives them adequate supplies of sugar, which is good enough for winter energy supply. Either method will work as long as the beekeeper knows what they are doing and accepts the honey yield. As for the bees - they will get by perfectly well using stored honey, or sugar syrup, from brooded cells - they have done it for millenia.

They do not need protein in the depths of winter if they have been prepared for winter properly. They need food for mostly thermal energy. They do not need pollen suplements if they have plenty of pollen stores and they can get out to forage in spring. If they don’t have sufficient, then they will need pollen substitutes if they are tempted into brooding earlier than they would naturally. Simple as that.
 
.
And now they are eating brood!
.
Do you eate horses in Britain?

.
 
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I wo

getting it wrong for 50 years, on many a basic topic...has to be a Vit.D
deficiency I reckon :rolleyes:

Bill

IT is better than skin cancer

Two out of tree in Australia are diagnosed skin cancer before age 70.

Bill, free advice. Do not gather problems from another side of the world. And take care about your medications.
 
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More of the same.
Posters trying to emulate Finman, but living in a different climate.

huh..?.."emulate", I don't think so.
IF you were typing "emasculate" then that too is soooo wrong.
Bees live in their own habitat/environment, one they maintain.
So SFA to do with atmospheric environment beyond how bees
cope with change.
Today a modern community is joined by air and sea - even
without Internet access - so holding to attitudes typical of a
18th century philistine in respect of parochial ownership is just
ignorance raging.


Posters trying to make out that Finman is wrong in harvesting honey?

Having read enough of his 'stuph' - and taken the time to get
to know(test) the gentleman's depth - I am confident there is no
loss in bypassing the text. If you feel ol'Fin's utterings hold value
for you then Lucks to you, be happy... it is that simple.

Bill
 
huh..?.."emulate", I don't think so

It is you that is SF (your terminology) useless. Can’t read? Don’t understand?

How the F (your terminology) does feeding pollen substitute in Finman’s climate correspond to feeding same in the west midlands of the UK?

Learn to read. Bees have been around a lot longer than you. Yes, before the dinosaurs, even.
 
How the F (your terminology) does feeding pollen substitute in Finman’s climate correspond to feeding same in the west midlands of the UK?
.

And Australia has best pollen substitute feeding knowledge. I have learned much from there.
 

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