Another Hive Stand

[Millet]

Seems as slightly windy weather Doris has grounded me today i decided to knock another hive stand up in among the chicken poop, they are still locked in the garage through the bird flue by the way, they are like infant children, getting in the way, tipping thing's over and nearly getting there heads chopped of with the saw while they try to grab the saw dust when cutting.
This one is now called Doris..

 

[enrico]

A quick tip. Always put the platform on top of the legs. The weight of a heavy hive puts a lot of strain on those screws.

 

[enrico]

A quick tip. Always put the platform on top of the legs. The weight of a heavy hive puts a lot of strain on those screws.

Here is one I knocked up yesterday too out of scrap wood. I make them double length so that I can put the hive parts on the back end when inspecting.
E

 

[Nige.Coll]

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=14066&stc=1&d=1487929968

Made these the other week cost me the price of a box of screws and 3 oz of beeswax. Beeswax was swapped for wood, I made 4 from the wood I got. Tested with 3 people standing on them.

 

[Millet]

A quick tip. Always put the platform on top of the legs. The weight of a heavy hive puts a lot of strain on those screws.

Thanks for that Enrico but each leg has 3x 4in screws buried into them i would think the legs would snap before the screws give way.

 

[colinc]

Never criticise another mans timber

 

[Plenty of honey]

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=14067&stc=1&d=1487941900

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=14068&stc=1&d=1487943166


Heres my next load of hive stands!
Old tyres and Pallets make prefect stand and less likely to blow over, as recently demonstrated ( sorry for those concerned)
The circle of the tyres make an excellent base. You need a matching pair, then i cut a pallet in to two thirds and put this on top, so it straddles the two tyres and your away. The tyres never rot and their a good barrier between the wet ground and the pallet. The pallet can be painted if you wish. The tyres also help absorb vibrations.
A no brainer. !

I see lots of beekeepers intent on making a good quality stand, that relies on four posts in to the ground, they seem to miss the point that in beekeeping the ground is never perfectly even and always wet in winter. Your also relying on those four small squares of each foot base, coming in to contact with the ground equally, where it isn't and its really windy on the odd times, the design is prone to tip over. Not a good senario!

 

[Swarm]

I'm with Richard on this one, simple and effective is my approach. A couple of pot blocks set apart with two 3 inch beams between them. Stable and solid.

 

[Millet]

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=14067&stc=1&d=1487941900

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=14068&stc=1&d=1487943166


Heres my next load of hive stands!
Old tyres and Pallets make prefect stand and less likely to blow over, as recently demonstrated ( sorry for those concerned)
The circle of the tyres make an excellent base. You need a matching pair, then i cut a pallet in to two thirds and put this on top, so it straddles the two tyres and your away. The tyres never rot and their a good barrier between the wet ground and the pallet. The pallet can be painted if you wish. The tyres also help absorb vibrations.
A no brainer. !

I see lots of beekeepers intent on making a good quality stand, that relies on four posts in to the ground, they seem to miss the point that in beekeeping the ground is never perfectly even and always wet in winter. Your also relying on those four small squares of each foot base, coming in to contact with the ground equally, where it isn't and its really windy on the odd times, the design is prone to tip over. Not a good senario!

Simple yet effective, i am only on a very very small scale but if for some miracle i ever got to your level i would sharp stop making them and take a route similar to you.

 

[Millet]

Never criticise another mans timber

I do not mind criticism one bit Colin, for all anyone knows i could be clueless with wood work and used insufficient fixings which would cause me a lot of problems if the stand collapsed, the planks at the front and back also take a lot of downward force and i would put money on it that this type of stand could easily hold in excess of 500lb in weight..

 

[Millet]

I'm with Richard on this one, simple and effective is my approach. A couple of pot blocks set apart with two 3 inch beams between them. Stable and solid.

If i ever get past six hives that is what i will do but i would use hollow 9in breeze blocks to sit the wood work on top of.

 

[Erichalfbee]

i would use hollow 9in breeze blocks to sit the wood work on top of.

That way you can thread the hive straps through them

 

[Swarm]

If i ever get past six hives that is what i will do but i would use hollow 9in breeze blocks to sit the wood work on top of.

That's the ones, two cavities in them.

 

[Little John]

Don't even think about using tyres/ pallets for hive stands if you have a mole or ant problem. Ask me how I know this ...

My ground is Grade I silt with a very high winter water table, and yet I use four-legged hive stands on this extremely soft soil. The secret is to spread the weight using 'pads' (offcuts of timber, roughly 3"x4") under each leg - and - several of these can be stacked as required in order to level the hive stand.
LJ

 

[Millet]

Don't even think about using tyres/ pallets for hive stands if you have a mole or ant problem. Ask me how I know this ...

My ground is Grade I silt with a very high winter water table, and yet I use four-legged hive stands on this extremely soft soil. The secret is to spread the weight using 'pads' (offcuts of timber, roughly 3"x4") under each leg - and - several of these can be stacked as required in order to level the hive stand.
LJ

I kill Moles for a living this time of the year, so for some reason i do not think they will be a problem..

 

[Plenty of honey]

I do not mind criticism one bit Colin, for all anyone knows i could be clueless with wood work and used insufficient fixings which would cause me a lot of problems if the stand collapsed, the planks at the front and back also take a lot of downward force and i would put money on it that this type of stand could easily hold in excess of 500lb in weight..

it is a lovely stand Millet, just dont want you to build too many and have a disaster. Just put some thick tiles under each foot, that usually does the trick (spread the weight load). or do what Little John does. Thats very sensible with his soil type.
The thing with all beekeeping equipment, is use what you have and adapt to the local soil type and conditions. I too have seen hives fallen over due to moles around the base of the hive stands.

 

[Millet]

it is a lovely stand Millet, just dont want you to build too many and have a disaster. Just put some thick tiles under each foot, that usually does the trick (spread the weight load). or do what Little John does. Thats very sensible with his soil type.
The thing with all beekeeping equipment, is use what you have and adapt to the local soil type and conditions. I too have seen hives fallen over due to moles around the base of the hive stands.

Moles will never be a problem to me.. and my hive or two is also sat ontop of a nicley leveled 2x2ft paving stone..

 

[Plenty of honey]

enough to make a long coat there! Nice, well done.

 

[bjosephd]

...i would put money on it that this type of stand could easily hold in excess of 500lb in weight..

Not strong enough for a Finny flow then




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[Finman]

Not strong enough for a Finny flow then

I use in summer 2 x 4 planks as stand.