Aggressive Guards

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Wow some good conversation going on here but talk about off topic,, from aggressive bees to marshmallows :icon_204-2: drop us a pm Beejuice I will pop up to see these bees and will bring some marshmallows :sorry:


Hey - no problem! I've never started a thread which had so many replies - even if they're not directed at my question.

The bees have returned to their old ways and pretty much ignore me now. I'll see what happens after the next inspection as there may well be the same pattern of bad attitude which some others have observed following an inspection.
 
Hey - no problem! I've never started a thread which had so many replies - even if they're not directed at my question.

The bees have returned to their old ways and pretty much ignore me now. I'll see what happens after the next inspection as there may well be the same pattern of bad attitude which some others have observed following an inspection.

look out for other sources of annoyance to your bees e.g. animals, birds.
We had one colony p****d because they became a landing pad for pigeons
 
Beejuice, like you, I've been wondering much the same thing about my bees, local mongrels, one black - which on the whole have been feisty anyway. Certainly no poss. of inspecting them unsuited. But I have always regarded them as being a bit on the defensive side, not aggressive. Then yesterday was stung on the end of my nose (eyes watered after that!!) while not esp. close, and then followed persistently round the garden some distance away later on. Hmmm. Am certainly in favour of locally adapted bees, but... perhaps not suitable for all situations?

But, now thinking about re-queening.. From what people tell me and what I read, it sounds to me as though you can certainly acquire a blessedly well-tempered queen, perhaps acc. to what type of bee she is. But that after cross-breeding with the locals, her descendants may be fine - but you just might end up with a hive which is really problematic, worse than the ones you started with. Well is this the case? Unless you routinely re-queen and successfully pre-empt all swarms (!) is it better to just treat hives on an individual basis and re-queen any colony which shows itself to be too difficult, with any good-tempered local queen? I don't know what most people do?
 
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One thing for sure with a defensive hive they won't be bothered by wasps.
I went to the hive around 9.30pm two nights ago to try and jam a piece of sponge in the entrance so i could level the hive through mole damage, normally the bees would have been out of sight but not on this night, they was a line of heads sticking out the full length of the entrance block, and about 1ft above them was a big Queen wasp perched on the brood box which had obviously tried to gain entry earlier on, them modified entrance blocks are a cracking idea as it takes less bees to defend the entrance.
 
But, now thinking about re-queening.. From what people tell me and what I read, it sounds to me as though you can certainly acquire a blessedly well-tempered queen, perhaps acc. to what type of bee she is. But that after cross-breeding with the locals, her descendants may be fine - but you just might end up with a hive which is really problematic, worse than the ones you started with. Well is this the case? Unless you routinely re-queen and successfully pre-empt all swarms (!) is it better to just treat hives on an individual basis and re-queen any colony which shows itself to be too difficult, with any good-tempered local queen? I don't know what most people do?

I began beekeeping this year by purchasing four full colonies - all four are from reputable suppliers/queen breeders selling Buckfast Queens, nucs and colonies. Two came from Yorkshire, two from Berkshire. If someone was thinking of re-queening it is quite possible they would end up with a new queen from one of these suppliers.

I'm not expecting to do an inspection without a suit on - I can accept that they will react if provoked. But I don't expect them to chase me around the garden (amusing as that is for my wife).

At the moment I'm trying to work out whether my bees are tolerably aggressive (just get upset after an inspection) or they are bad uns.

I helped a friend with his bees yesterday and they were no different to mine so maybe I'm being harsh on mine.

I'll give them time - but it does still leave me with the question you are posing - would it really help to re-queen? After all, my queens came from one of those reputable Buckfast breeders.
 
We think our colonies originally came from bees of Italian descent - I caught and hived a swarm which was full of very pale, almost albino bees which looked like Italian bees should according to the books. All of our three hives are queened by her direct descendants.

The queens fill the boxes with brood at a fantastic rate and apart from one period when they were being robbed have been the most gentle of bees, but I only have limited experience as I have less than two years as a beek under my belt.
 
It's basically a lottery with open mated queens, the best you can do is requeen selectively from your own bees, choosing those with desirable traits and weeding out the defensive ones or buy in from a known, reputable source.
Defensive bees in a garden environment are no joke and being buzzed and chased around is not acceptable and could also empinge on your neighbours.
Could it be the case that we are seeing many new beeks and perhaps they are less aware of what they should expect? Perhaps we are discussing situations where an experienced beek would have requeened earlier, on the other hand, local conditions can play a part. Last year was very poor and the bees struggled and there were quite a few complaints about aggressive bees. This Spring hasn't been too special.
That said, I wouldn't be surprised at some unwelcome attention after an inspection but that shouldn't be anywhere within 50 yards!
 
BeeJuice it sounds as though yours were just feeling tetchy for a particular reason and not because they're bad'uns.
(Helpful tip about the the marshmallows! - To be added to Vick and Skin So Soft on the beekeeping list?! - I learn something every time I look at the forum.)
 
I began beekeeping this year by purchasing four full colonies - all four are from reputable suppliers/queen breeders selling Buckfast Queens, nucs and colonies. Two came from Yorkshire, two from Berkshire. If someone was thinking of re-queening it is quite possible they would end up with a new queen from one of these suppliers.

I'm not expecting to do an inspection without a suit on - I can accept that they will react if provoked. But I don't expect them to chase me around the garden (amusing as that is for my wife).

At the moment I'm trying to work out whether my bees are tolerably aggressive (just get upset after an inspection) or they are bad uns.

I helped a friend with his bees yesterday and they were no different to mine so maybe I'm being harsh on mine.

I'll give them time - but it does still leave me with the question you are posing - would it really help to re-queen? After all, my queens came from one of those reputable Buckfast breeders.

I'm wondering if inexperienced handling could be a factor in your problems.
 
I'm wondering if inexperienced handling could be a factor in your problems.

That's a fair observation and I'm happy to take responsibility rather than blame the bees or the breeders they came from. But I am under close supervision of a very experienced bee keeper and so far I don't think I've done anything untoward.

The bees are chilled out now as we're 5 days since the last inspection.
 
I began beekeeping this year by purchasing four full colonies - all four are from reputable suppliers/queen breeders selling Buckfast Queens, nucs and colonies. Two came from Yorkshire, two from Berkshire. If someone was thinking of re-queening it is quite possible they would end up with a new queen from one of these suppliers.

I'm not expecting to do an inspection without a suit on - I can accept that they will react if provoked. But I don't expect them to chase me around the garden (amusing as that is for my wife).

At the moment I'm trying to work out whether my bees are tolerably aggressive (just get upset after an inspection) or they are bad uns.

I helped a friend with his bees yesterday and they were no different to mine so maybe I'm being harsh on mine.

I'll give them time - but it does still leave me with the question you are posing - would it really help to re-queen? After all, my queens came from one of those reputable Buckfast breeders.

Hi BeeJuice,
You are a very brave man starting out with four full sized colonies! Hope you have a largish garden and have worked out their flight paths so that you don't get one in your hair or someone else's inadvertently. Mine are often a bit tetchy early spring after inspections, until the flow sets in, with guard bees
having larger patrol areas for a couple of days when they seek out the other half. My largest colony were very passive on last inspection, but their cupboards were full.
The bees don't like sweat, carbon dioxide (heavy breathing), sebum from hair follicles or alcohol - so keep it clean. They did not like my new sherriff bee suit either, see how that goes after washing.
If you feel a bit overwhelmed at times it passes. I did not use to like the first inspections of the season, but I am ok now.
Good luck and enjoy an intellectually and physically stimulating hobby.
 
Hmmm....

I started with one nuc, bought a full colony later that season, and frankly found it more than enough.

I tip my hat to the owner of four full colonies as life is indeed going to be interesting. I sincerely hope he has the 16 supers to cope. Not to mention the extractor, bottler, and various accoutrements required.

PH
 
I started with one nuc, bought a full colony later that season, and frankly found it more than enough.

I tip my hat to the owner of four full colonies as life is indeed going to be interesting. I sincerely hope he has the 16 supers to cope. Not to mention the extractor, bottler, and various accoutrements required.

PH

12 supers and a 12 frame extractor bought on eBay. No bottler but plenty of jars and buckets that came with the job lot on eBay. Plenty of accoutrements... So many accoutrements.

Perhaps ignorance is bliss. I'm sure there's plenty of time for it all to go wrong. I will share the disasters
 
Aye no doubt... been there and learnt the lesson that why make the mistakes that are avoidable.

PH
 
I think I mentioned that I have a mentor. I'm not doing this alone.

I've got a lot to learn but I do at least have someone to learn from
 
Don't they all dance to the same tune?
An advantage of starting out with several colonies means you'll quickly learn that each colony is slightly different, and you'll end up with a favourite. If they weren't Buckfasts you could raise queens from that one.

I don't see the sense in being reticent - more hives means more opportunities to observe and learn.
True, and good luck. I also started with full sized colonies and wouldn't have swapped it for all the world.
 
An advantage of starting out with several colonies means you'll quickly learn that each colony is slightly different, and you'll end up with a favourite. If they weren't Buckfasts you could raise queens from that one.

I have noticed that I have a definite favorite - they're quiet and very industrious.

I was planning on doing a vertical split and taking the new emerging queen from the top box and introducing that to one of the other colonies - and then recombining the two BBs on the split hive.

Why would this be a problem because they are Buckfast?
 
Don't they all dance to the same tune?

I don't see the sense in being reticent - more hives means more opportunities to observe and learn.

They sure all dance to the same tune, let's hope it's not all at the same time! I agree there is no point in being reticent in beekeeping, and you know the man, but the more hives you have the heavier the work load mentally and physically and the more guard bees.
Best wishes for the season with lots of honey
 

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