AFB and saving a queen.

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Test them yourself, use either a microscope or lateral flow device, either is very easy to use.

I regularly use the thornes test kit but if you call the authorities in it has to be tested officially so one bout of AFB costs around 2500e. I'll follow the finman keep quiet method from now on.

I don't really rate the matchstick method as I can get just about any dead bee to draw out. Unfortunately I'm an AFB expert now, I can usually smell AFB as soon as I open the crownboard, bees tend to be lethargic and I observe the punctured cell cap, if I open it I can see the dead bee in the bottom of the cell, if it's dark slime I know it's AFB, matchstick not needed IMO.
 
I regularly use the thornes test kit but if you call the authorities in it has to be tested officially so one bout of AFB costs around 2500e. I'll follow the finman keep quiet method from now on.

I.

That test kit measure the case, what you can se with mere eyes. No help then. So said our specialist.

When disease has been bursted visible, you feel it with your nose. No idea to buy those test kits.

In that scale, which Mazza run his business, it is better to learn detrect spores himself. 1800 euros is a big money to earn.
 
I regularly use the thornes test kit but if you call the authorities in it has to be tested officially so one bout of AFB costs around 2500e. I'll follow the finman keep quiet method from now on.

I don't know if there is similar in Portugal, but in the UK there is a scheme for beefarmers (DASH) which after doing a short test and initial inspection the beefarmers are left to deal with any foul brood problems they find on their own.

http://www.nationalbeeunit.com/index.cfm?pageid=360
 
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I regularly use the thornes test kit but if you call the authorities in it has to be tested officially so one bout of AFB costs around 2500e. I'll follow the finman keep quiet method from now on.
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Our specialist says that test is vain. It is meant to the inpspector, who safes his back when he orders the burning.

Test works when the symptons are allready visible and in brown slime form.

Test revieles nothing. You know it allredy. It is only a cost. You see the disease with eyes.

You can burn you frames without using money into test. No one knows how many frames you put into fire. But to renew combs is really expencive job. 50 frames/hive is much. You must destroy the honey combs too. Frame woods you may boil in 3% lye solution.
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I don't know if there is similar in Portugal, but in the UK there is a scheme for beefarmers (DASH) which after doing a short test and initial inspection the beefarmers are left to deal with any foul brood problems they find on their own.

http://www.nationalbeeunit.com/index.cfm?pageid=360

Unfortunately not but thanks for the info. They insist on doing the work themselves and charging.
 
That's how outbreaks spread.

I'm aware of that, however after years of this, do you not think you can get sick of doing the right thing? Would you happily pay for someone tell you what you already know and charge you for the pleasure? It usually takes weeks for them to arrive too, the bees are usually already dead when they arrive from being shut in.

I can assure you there is little or no spread from my hives, I deal with it straight away, I'd lose 50+ hives if I didnt.
 
Our specialist says that test is vain. It is meant to the inpspector, who safes his back when he orders the burning.

Test works when the symptons are allready visible and in brown slime form.

Test revieles nothing. You know it allredy. It is only a cost. You see the disease with eyes.

You can burn you frames without using money into test. No one knows how many frames you put into fire. But to renew combs is really expencive job. 50 frames/hive is much. You must destroy the honey combs too. Frame woods you may boil in 3% lye solution.
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Agreed, test is just a last minute hope to avoid burning, or to show others you are not losing it! you know though.

Do you reuse the frames? I usually remove the roof and burn the rest, I could be tempted to scortch the hive in future and just burn the frames.
 
Agreed, test is just a last minute hope to avoid burning, or to show others you are not losing it! you know though.

Do you reuse the frames? I usually remove the roof and burn the rest, I could be tempted to scortch the hive in future and just burn the frames.

99.9% of the infective material is in the combs, these are what really need burning, and I wouldn't bother salvaging the woodwork from frames either.
Scorching boxes is only really a show to convince beekeepers that the disease is serious, a good scrape and wash is just as effective at sterilizing the boxes. If you're serious about sterilizing the boxes properly then the kiwis do it right, and help preserve the boxes at the same time, by immersing them in molten paraffin wax for ten minutes.
 
99.9% of the infective material is in the combs, these are what really need burning, and I wouldn't bother salvaging the woodwork from frames either.
Scorching boxes is only really a show to convince beekeepers that the disease is serious, a good scrape and wash is just as effective at sterilizing the boxes. If you're serious about sterilizing the boxes properly then the kiwis do it right, and help preserve the boxes at the same time, by immersing them in molten paraffin wax for ten minutes.

That's interesting, I didn't know if paraffin got hot enough to kill the spores. Its very handy if it is, as that's how I treat all my hives and am set up for that.
 
Welcome.
I had afb nearly twenty years ago, had a neighbour who kept buying cheap bees straight from pollination in Kent and he'd leave wet honey supers around which my bees could rob, lo and behold, I had to burn some colonies. He moved away and I got rid of the problem, haven't had it since, but I did learn a bit about afb, it is possible to overcome.
Good luck :)
 
Welcome.
I had afb nearly twenty years ago, had a neighbour who kept buying cheap bees straight from pollination in Kent and he'd leave wet honey supers around which my bees could rob, lo and behold, I had to burn some colonies. He moved away and I got rid of the problem, haven't had it since, but I did learn a bit about afb, it is possible to overcome.
Good luck :)

Sorry to hear that. Its a massive learning curve, initially one I was glad I've experienced in a very strange way, now it is just a costly pest. Portugal is rife with AFB so not an easy fix for me. There are too many back street beekeepers who don't check hives and similarly to your problem leave my bees to rob. Its thankfully just confined to one 5k area which I've now vacated so fingers crossed for this year.

I do think once you have had AFB it makes you a better beekeeper though?
 
Sorry.....:eek:ff topic:
Portugal is rife with AFB
Do you think one can extrapolate that to
Most Portugese honey will have AFB spores?
 
Sorry.....:eek:ff topic:
Portugal is rife with AFB
Do you think one can extrapolate that to
Most Portugese honey will have AFB spores?

I dont think so as with the climate like with varroa the colonies don't tend to last long. I definitely wouldn't be feeding it to my bees though.
 
Thanks for that.
I like to sample different honey and always bring some back from hols
Used jars do get a good cleaning though.
 
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IT sounds that Portugal is challenging place to keep bees, when surrounding has so much AFB. And it must be too so, that there are much plenty if Wild rotten nests here and there.
 
Well after all this hard winter talk about saving queens/hives with AFB, I found my first of 2016 yesterday, well infected, strong hive. Currently sealed up, colony killed with petrol and awaiting a big fire. I'll try and post some frame pics if I can.

This afternoons job is looking for more land, many many miles away from here.
 

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