Which Type of Bees

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I have both Buckfast and AMM and as far as possible keep the breeding of the two strains separate.
Buckfast are a joy to work, form large colonies and as a consequence produce lots of honey.
AMM are a little more tetchy and need careful handling to ensure they don't get over excited and become defensive. They winter with far fewer stores and produce smashing white wax cappings. They keep their colony size smaller and produce, not a huge amount, but less honey.
The two strains work well for me and provide what I need to offer to sell.
I have spent a long time and indeed money finding bees that work for me but I did this for a reason. Although I enjoy them, I don't keep them just for the joy of having bees or preserving some fanatics ideology; they have to, as far as possible pay for their keep.
If I only had a couple of hives, I would have good and I mean good not the rubbish sold by some disrespectful sellers, Buckie's.
S
 
Not the British Isles then.

I think you're missing the point. The only way any race can breed true is if its the only population there. Even then, it doesn't mean there will be any improvement in the population. This will only happen if somebody assesses the stock and intervenes to control those individuals that can mate.
 
I think you're missing the point. The only way any race can breed true is if its the only population there. Even then, it doesn't mean there will be any improvement in the population. This will only happen if somebody assesses the stock and intervenes to control those individuals that can mate.

I'm more interested in characteristics breeding true than race, all we need for this to happen is for stability in a population.
 
I'm more interested in characteristics breeding true than race, all we need for this to happen is for stability in a population.

I'm confused. By "characteristic" do you mean body conformity (i.e. race) or observable behaviour?
To preserve one particular race without any intention of developing it seems pointless to me. I don't think many beekeepers would support that idea.
Beekeepers everywhere want the maximum possible yield with the least possible effort (there are other goals but many go no further than this). To develop these observable characteristics requires selective breeding.
 
Sorry, behavioral characteristics rather than phenotype or genotype per se.
 
I have both Buckfast and AMM and as far as possible keep the breeding of the two strains separate.
Buckfast are a joy to work, form large colonies and as a consequence produce lots of honey.
S

Given that My two Hives are Jumbo 14x12 then possibly this lends itself to to ones that can form large Clonies?
 
No offence intended, but, are you sure you're ready for something this big?

None Taken- Experience wise probably not just yet but that will come, Willing to get on with it- definitely and when you have a passion for all things outdoors its good>

I recall when i started Keeping Saltwater fish i was told to start small. Went big and mastered it.

All things are a learning curve and so long as you have the right guidance, the right tools for the job and a passion then most things can be accomplished.

I don't plan to "just have a go"...
 
Given that My two Hives are Jumbo 14x12 then possibly this lends itself to to ones that can form large Clonies?

Queens ability to lay will rule, how big the colonyt will be.

If you do not let the queen show, how good layer it is, it is another thing.

Jumbo frames does not quarantee how big colonies you get.
 
Queens ability to lay will rule, how big the colonyt will be.

If you do not let the queen show, how good layer it is, it is another thing.

Jumbo frames does not quarantee how big colonies you get.

Yes i understand that but if they have the "room" for expansion then the family can grow without having to build another house....If you see my point?
 
Yes i understand that but if they have the "room" for expansion then the family can grow without having to build another house....If you see my point?

I do not quite see. I do not use excluders and I expand hives as soon as new bees emerge.

I join hives before yield, if they are not big enough. Productive hive must have 6-8 langstroth boxes. 4 box hive is not productive.


Many our professionals do not use excluders untill the main yiedl starts.
First they let the queen lay as much as it can. In main yield they start to restrict the bee number, because large hives are not neeed after yield season in August. Flowers are away.
 
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I do not quite see. I have no excluders and I expand hives as soon as new bees emerge.

I join hives before yield, if they are not big enough. Productive hive must have 6-8 langstroth boxes. 4 box hive is not productive.

I suppose what i was trying to say is that a Plus is a big, deep box, eliminating the need for extra brood bodies. But i appreciate that not everyone will agree.
 
I suppose what i was trying to say is that a Plus is a big, deep box, eliminating the need for extra brood bodies. But i appreciate that not everyone will agree.

Jumbo alone is a small brood box. I use 3 langstroths as brood box.

But it is not easy to maintain such bee strains, whose queens are able to fill 2 langstroth boxes with brood. They are more rare than one box layers.
 
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That made me laugh...
It's taken me nearly 10 years beekeeping to be confident in managing a prolific colony....which I am expecting to start this year :)

Carnies were my first ever bees and I lost the queen in her first season.:svengo:

If the colony is mild-mannered, a large colony is no problem to manage. I simply meant that the number of boxes you'll have to lift is quite a bit more. This can be truly exhausting, especially if the boxes are at head height and awkward to get hold of.
 
Whatever bees you decide to go for, make sure they are of a gentle nature for your first colony, nothing more off putting for a new beekeeper is being stung every time they lift the crown board off. If your still with us next year then you can make further decisions for future bees
 

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