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Drone Bee
So when your mother said "stop doing that ... it will make you go blind"...
she was not far from the truth!!
she was not far from the truth!!
So what would you consider 'long lived', how long do your unmaintained colonies survive (I think to use the word 'thrive' here is open to debate) before they perish - or is that another statistic you conveniently forget?My best hives are long lived
So there's a good chance your apiary is a simmering tank of disease as well?I've never changed brood comb.
No comment, and given that I'm a bad beekeeper by most yardsticks.
I have no blinkers, I simply wished to understand more regarding how you had achieved treatment free approach with 100 colonies and whether there was any lessons that could be learned.It is all but pointless collecting data unless you are doing a controlled experiment. There are many reasons why colonies die, and unless you discover what they are, all you can say they died. Roughly, over ten years of live and let die, of lost something of the order of 1 of 3, 2 of 6, 3 of 12, 5 of 20, then 20% of 40, 15% of 60, 12% of 70, 10% of 80; 10% of 80, this winter 16% thus far.
But: many of these have been small nucs, that I've learned fall easily. I've never renewed queens so many, I suspect l, have perished from winter queen failure. One year I lost 4 to badgers. I've never changed brood comb. In many ways I'm a novice, an amateur.
This is a predictable sort of pattern to somebody more interested in finding colonies that thrive when left alone, and wanting to build numbers (of such bees) urgently to gain a measure of drone influence. Nature has a method of locating the strongest, and that is all I need to know. My best hives are long lived, make good drone numbers, and are very productive under my regime.
So when you ask for data you have to understand that whatever I could provide isn't comparible to that done under controlled experimental conditions. It's really just a better proportion come through now, and by reported standard, and given that I'm a bad beekeeper by most yardsticks. Given that I don't treat or meddle in any way at all, not so bad I think.
I'm not in the game of experimental conditions, or managing to the nines. I'm in the game of understand nature's method and let it play out: understand traditional husbandry methods and make best from best, and see what happens. And I have maybe 40 year on year good performers, so I'm in a good position to move things up a notch. The experiment has been a success.
You can wear blinkers and demand data all you like. That is my data, my method, my story. And the main message, which is where we started remains: to the extent that there is no selection process health and vitality must be expected to decay. I'm pretty sure you knew that already. I'm also pretty sure most beekeepers don't appreciate quite what it means. To micromanage the health of an open mating population is to weaken it.
It is all but pointless collecting data unless you are doing a controlled experiment. There are many reasons why colonies die, and unless you discover what they are, all you can say they died. Roughly, over ten years of live and let die, of lost something of the order of 1 of 3, 2 of 6, 3 of 12, 5 of 20, then 20% of 40, 15% of 60, 12% of 70, 10% of 80; 10% of 80, this winter 16% thus far.
But: many of these have been small nucs, that I've learned fall easily. I've never renewed queens so many, I suspect l, have perished from winter queen failure. One year I lost 4 to badgers. I've never changed brood comb. In many ways I'm a novice, an amateur.
This is a predictable sort of pattern to somebody more interested in finding colonies that thrive when left alone, and wanting to build numbers (of such bees) urgently to gain a measure of drone influence. Nature has a method of locating the strongest, and that is all I need to know. My best hives are long lived, make good drone numbers, and are very productive under my regime.
So when you ask for data you have to understand that whatever I could provide isn't comparible to that done under controlled experimental conditions. It's really just a better proportion come through now, and by reported standard, and given that I'm a bad beekeeper by most yardsticks. Given that I don't treat or meddle in any way at all, not so bad I think.
I'm not in the game of experimental conditions, or managing to the nines. I'm in the game of understand nature's method and let it play out: understand traditional husbandry methods and make best from best, and see what happens. And I have maybe 40 year on year good performers, so I'm in a good position to move things up a notch. The experiment has been a success.
You can wear blinkers and demand data all you like. That is my data, my method, my story. And the main message, which is where we started remains: to the extent that there is no selection process health and vitality must be expected to decay. I'm pretty sure you knew that already. I'm also pretty sure most beekeepers don't appreciate quite what it means. To micromanage the health of an open mating population is to weaken it.
So what would you consider 'long lived', how long do your unmaintained colonies survive (I think to use the word 'thrive' here is open to debate) before they perish - or is that another statistic you conveniently forget?
So there's a good chance your apiary is a simmering tank of disease as well?
No comment
A lot of others probably share the same feelingsPersonally I'm glad you are based in Kent now I know more about your approach.
It was introduced to a species that is not the original host
It spreads from hive to hive
It kills by weakening the host, allowing other infections to take hold
It can act quite slowly, giving time for one colony to infect others
It's just like running an experiment with 80 humans with HIV, with no treatment - some would be alive and well after 10 years. That doesn't mean HIV won't kill them, or that we have discovered HIV-resistant humans, just that it hasn't killed them yet.
With more stable numbers you are likely to see mortality rise, as you seem to have done this year. Of course, splitting colonies aggressively, or allowing them to swarm, which I presume you do one of, slows down the build up of varroa (I use splits myself for that reason) - but that's all it does.
Losing 16% of 80 colonies by mid-Feb doesn't sound a ringing endorsement of the experiment.
So, I do wish you well for the experiment continuing, but I definitely think you are too early in claiming it has proved anything.
I know that's meant to be rude, but you should know the feeling is mutual - and no offence intended. We are both best off apart from each other.A lot of others probably share the same feelings
I've given some of the reasons why that may be - perhaps you skipped those parts?
The natural defences of European Honeybees to varroa are reasonably well known now, both from the scientific and home-experimental viewpoint.
And the processes of co-evolution can be seen to be rapidly playing out wherever that is possible.
if you bought full-on commercial bees and put them next to mine and treated them the same, which would you bet on surviving longest?
The fact that you have some nucs? Sorry, but I am not sure that is 100% the reason. Many people overwinter nucs with a very high survival rate, snug in poly boxes.
Their defences are swarming (brood break) and hygienic behaviour (which is yet to be proven on any kind of scale - certainly any attempt to move "VSH" queens out of their breeder's apiary seems to fail quickly). In other words, it remains highly debatable that European honeybees have effective natural defences against varroa.
Can they?
Like, the 90%+ mortality on the Gotland island experiment, with no certainty that the colonies that remain are anything more than lucky and well spread out? Can we tolerate 90-95% losses with an uncertain result?
Or like the Arnott forest, where colonies can only survive by staying vast distances away from each other, and moving nests completely every 3 or 4 years? (I have a suspicion that the Arnott forest isn't as isolated as Seeley claims, anyway, and that some of the colonies there are coming in from outside).
My problem is that whenever I see a natural beekeeper claiming to have bred bees which can tolerate varroa, they then say something like "I know this because my losses are only 20-30% per year, which is the same as some beekeepers I know who treat their bees".
I don't really know how to answer that question as I am unclear what "full on commercial bees" are. I don't buy bees, or queens. But I would be prepared to bet that if we put 10 of my colonies next to 10 of your colonies, mine would last longer as they would start from a lower varroa load, and I am sceptical that you have achieved any level of varroa resistance at all, based on the numbers you have provided. Sorry.
The fact that you have some nucs? Sorry, but I am not sure that is 100% the reason. Many people overwinter nucs with a very high survival rate, snug in poly boxes.
I can see that you're very sceptical so I would ask: have you tried hygienic/VSH bees?
Accordingly I have not read the rest of your post
I am pretty keen on being self-sufficient in queens to be honest, and haven't purchased any in years. My focus is on queens that demonstrate an ability to thrive in the conditions where I live. I don't insist that they can survive varroa unaided anymore than I would insist that my dog could survive chronic worms or (if I was a farmer) that my sheep and cows could survive whatever godawful parasites they get infested with, unaided. But if there was a supplier local to my area, and he/she could show me evidence (as opposed to marketing) that their queens really were varroa-resistant, sure, I would give it a try. I am not holding my breath though.
And sponsorship from Specsavers ....Well that's modern 'research' for you
It's not about the pursuit of knowledge nowadays -
it's all about the pursuit and harvesting of funding.
Conversely, something you've been unwilling to acknowledge is that pretty much all beekeepers who are self sufficient in queens also do a bit of breeding along the way, in that they select their favourite mothers and get rid of the undesirables when they show their hand, it pushes populations in certain directions as evidenced by many long time beekeepers developing their own strains despite relying on open mating.There is an ethical dimension here which I don't think you're acknowledging: what you call "self-sufficiency" is really a sort of passive acceptance of what your neighbours provide. Self-sufficiency would be if you did the work to develop the trait yourself. What you're describing is taking advantage of the "free" (to you) resource that your neighbour is providing. It isn't free, your neighbour will have invested in that stock, wherever he got it from (or, perhaps, worked to develop) over many years. You are just taking it for free.
I hear this "local bee" nonsense all the time. The myth that desirable traits suddenly materialise out of thin air irrespective of the neighbour who's been steadily working on improving his bees for years.
Ruttner talked about the same thing during 1970s/80s Germany (Breeding Techniques and Selection for Breeding of the Honeybee). Now, they have the best breeding system in Europe.
Conversely, something you've been unwilling to acknowledge is that pretty much all beekeepers who are self sufficient in queens also do a bit of breeding along the way, in that they select their favourite mothers and get rid of the undesirables when they show their hand, it pushes populations in certain directions as evidenced by many long time beekeepers developing their own strains despite relying on open mating.
Conversely, something you've been unwilling to acknowledge is that pretty much all beekeepers who are self sufficient in queens also do a bit of breeding along the way, in that they select their favourite mothers and get rid of the undesirables when they show their hand, it pushes populations in certain directions as evidenced by many long time beekeepers developing their own strains despite relying on open mating.
There is an ethical dimension here which I don't think you're acknowledging: what you call "self-sufficiency" is really a sort of passive acceptance of what your neighbours provide. Self-sufficiency would be if you did the work to develop the trait yourself. What you're describing is taking advantage of the "free" (to you) resource that your neighbour is providing. It isn't free, your neighbour will have invested in that stock, wherever he got it from (or, perhaps, worked to develop) over many years. You are just taking it for free.
Ruttner talked about the same thing during 1970s/80s Germany (Breeding Techniques and Selection for Breeding of the Honeybee). Now, they have the best breeding system in Europe.
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