What did you do in the 'workshop' today

[Joe Bee]

I bought some stuff in the sale, enough to make up two nationals with supers, for my first hives, and I was wondering if small splits and cracks should be filled, and if so what with? Is normal wood filler ok for bees?

They are cedar, should I be sanding and coating them? I was under the impression that cedar can be used as-is.

I wont be constructing mine for a few months yet, too much else to do, but now seems a good time to ask as everyone else is doing theirs!

I would normally make 10 to 15 brood boxes/ supers every year from red deal or cedar and have found that cracks and splits are inevitable. I use a good quality water proof glue to fill the cracks and rub down when the glue has dried. If the gaps are greater than .5 mm you can insert wood shavings glue in place and trim with a sharp chisel when dry.

 

[jkellum]

What is the lumber?

Pine

 

[E&MBees]

The first of many for my sister’s wedding reception. I think they will look good in tea light holders.

 

[Erichalfbee]

They are very nice. I’ve done honey for wedding favours but candles are much nicer.

 

[Newbeeneil]

Knocked up the first of two nuc boxes I'm making for a teaching apiary.

 

[E&MBees]

They are very nice. I’ve done honey for wedding favours but candles are much nicer.

Thank you. It’s an Abelo mould.

 

[Joe Bee]

Pine

Scots Pine. Properly treated it lasts 10-15 years.

 

[madasafish]

Repaired and repainted a poly hive cover damaged in gales.
It has been so cold here, paint/varnish takes three days to dry in the garage.

 

[Garry R]

Finished off my pallet boards 6 frame nucleus box. Like madasafish the varnishing was the slow bit!!

 

[hairywill]

On Sunday I made myself a temporary warming cabinet for a 20 litre bucket of set honey.

I started looking at old fridges/freezers on facebook marketplace then realised I already had everything I needed.
I didn't really want to buy/store more kit so I have just built something temporary out of spare parts.
If I was starting from scratch and buying stuff then I would not use such expensive components.

Ingredients:
1 14x12 poly brood box
1 poly super
1 wooden/metal roof (I wish that I had a spare poly one)
1 460x460 plywood square for the floor
2 short lengths of timber to put the bucket on so that it is not resting on the floor
1 30 watt soil warming mat
1 old PC fan to circulate air
1 cannibalised 12V power supply for the fan
1 raspberry pi
1 DHT22 temperature sensor
1 240 volt relay
various electrical wires/sockets

The interesting bit for me was controlling the whole thing on the raspberry pi using Node-RED.


The soil warming mat is powered through the 240V relay.
The pi reads the temperature sensor every 5 minutes. If the temperature is above 39°C then it sets the relay to off, otherwise it is set to on.
The cool thing about node-red, is it makes it very easy to create a web based dashboard. So now I can see a chart of the temperature over the last 2 days. You can see dips where I checked the honey.


I found it really interesting how much heat was leaking through the wooden roof, the 30 watt mat did not seem sufficient to keep it up to temperature, I did not have any spare kingspan/celotex. So now I have wrapped the whole thing in a blanket and an old duvet and stacked some sofa cushions on top.

Its nearly done, and when its finished I can put all the components back to their original use.

 

[Swarm]

Spent the last couple of days trying to repair some old boxes that were set aside as 'past it'. I've got two to acceptable level so far, bit of a slow process but needs must and all that.

 

[pargyle]

On Sunday I made myself a temporary warming cabinet for a 20 litre bucket of set honey.

I started looking at old fridges/freezers on facebook marketplace then realised I already had everything I needed.
I didn't really want to buy/store more kit so I have just built something temporary out of spare parts.
If I was starting from scratch and buying stuff then I would not use such expensive components.

Ingredients:
1 14x12 poly brood box
1 poly super
1 wooden/metal roof (I wish that I had a spare poly one)
1 460x460 plywood square for the floor
2 short lengths of timber to put the bucket on so that it is not resting on the floor
1 30 watt soil warming mat
1 old PC fan to circulate air
1 cannibalised 12V power supply for the fan
1 raspberry pi
1 DHT22 temperature sensor
1 240 volt relay
various electrical wires/sockets

The interesting bit for me was controlling the whole thing on the raspberry pi using Node-RED.
View attachment 30720

The soil warming mat is powered through the 240V relay.
The pi reads the temperature sensor every 5 minutes. If the temperature is above 39°C then it sets the relay to off, otherwise it is set to on.
The cool thing about node-red, is it makes it very easy to create a web based dashboard. So now I can see a chart of the temperature over the last 2 days. You can see dips where I checked the honey.
View attachment 30721

I found it really interesting how much heat was leaking through the wooden roof, the 30 watt mat did not seem sufficient to keep it up to temperature, I did not have any spare kingspan/celotex. So now I have wrapped the whole thing in a blanket and an old duvet and stacked some sofa cushions on top.

Its nearly done, and when its finished I can put all the components back to their original use.

I rather doubt that a 30watt heating mat will be sufficient to get the temperature you need to get a 20 litre bucket sufficiently warm to liquify it in any reasonable time frame .... I have a Lidl Jam maker with a thermostat ... with the tub sat in water at 35 degrees it takes about a day to liquify a set tub at 40 degrees it will do it overnight but bear in mind that a water jacket is a far better transmitter of heat than air ... more so when you have the insulating properties of food grade plastic between the heat and the honey.

You might have to invest in a tube heater which might deliver the volume of heat you need in your heath robinson setup. However, I'm right with you on using what you have to hand - I love repurposing and dual purposing so well done in that respect ...

However: £30 will get you a proper heating set up and it's still a cheap warming cabinet:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lean-Start...f7614869f58&pd_rd_wg=8PKgb&pd_rd_i=B005MR4NCC
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/38446892...%2FsQd%2Bg%3D%3D|clp:2334524|tkp:BFBM0oLosu1f

 

[Foxylad]

this is the off the shelf solution I use. It’s a reptile vivarium controller. Fan for circulation, heater (ceramic bulb or similar).
plug it in set the temp, you don’t need a degree in electrical engineering.

Lucky Reptile TC-2UK Thermo Control II Lucky Reptile TC-2UK Thermo Control II : Amazon.co.uk: Pet Supplies

 

[Wilco]

On Sunday I made myself a temporary warming cabinet for a 20 litre bucket of set honey.

I started looking at old fridges/freezers on facebook marketplace then realised I already had everything I needed.
I didn't really want to buy/store more kit so I have just built something temporary out of spare parts.
If I was starting from scratch and buying stuff then I would not use such expensive components.

Ingredients:
1 14x12 poly brood box
1 poly super
1 wooden/metal roof (I wish that I had a spare poly one)
1 460x460 plywood square for the floor
2 short lengths of timber to put the bucket on so that it is not resting on the floor
1 30 watt soil warming mat
1 old PC fan to circulate air
1 cannibalised 12V power supply for the fan
1 raspberry pi
1 DHT22 temperature sensor
1 240 volt relay
various electrical wires/sockets

The interesting bit for me was controlling the whole thing on the raspberry pi using Node-RED.
View attachment 30720

The soil warming mat is powered through the 240V relay.
The pi reads the temperature sensor every 5 minutes. If the temperature is above 39°C then it sets the relay to off, otherwise it is set to on.
The cool thing about node-red, is it makes it very easy to create a web based dashboard. So now I can see a chart of the temperature over the last 2 days. You can see dips where I checked the honey.
View attachment 30721

I found it really interesting how much heat was leaking through the wooden roof, the 30 watt mat did not seem sufficient to keep it up to temperature, I did not have any spare kingspan/celotex. So now I have wrapped the whole thing in a blanket and an old duvet and stacked some sofa cushions on top.

Its nearly done, and when its finished I can put all the components back to their original use.

I go even more basic... Cheap thermometer with remote wired probe from ebay (<£5), turn (electric) oven on low, tinker with dial until consistently around 36-40C. Mark dial with queen marking pen. Put bucket in oven overnight on lowest shelf.

 

[Newbeeneil]

I popped into my friendly local sawmill today to pick up some cedar that I ordered 3 months ago (these guys work to their own agenda so I now know to order way before I need anything - if I ring up and ask when it will be ready I normally get "oh yes, we should be doing the cedar next week" )
I ordered 12 x 6'6" lengths of 9"x 3/8" plus 12 x 6'6" lengths of 6"x 5/8". (They haven't heard of the metric system.) As I loaded them on the van I noticed I had 14 x 8' lengths of 9"x 3/8" plus 14 x 8' lengths of 6"x 5/8"
I pointed this out to the guy and he said " oh, we used a 8' length so it wasn't worth chopping your planks down and it has a few knots so we gave you a few extra!"
When I asked "how much?" he punched about on his ancient calculator which he told me had got wet so you have to press extra hard to get a decimal point! "oh..... 42 quid and 36 quid ..... 78 quid..... 70 for cash?"
At the rates he quoted, what I actually received was worth over £110. I do love those boys .... well worth the wait!

 

[The Poot]

Today, made a warming cabinet for jarred honey as I don’t have a means for water based heater.
I invested in a 40w tube heater, with thermostat. Now experimenting how far to open the thermostat to reach and maintain 40c
I have celotex to stick on the exterior if required.

I‘ve modified it a bit since the photos were taken, raising the metal grille (a cake stand) away from the tube.

 

[drex]

I would stick on the celotex anyway. It will make a big difference to the ultimate temp that can be reached and more importantly keep the temp more stable

 

[JamezF]

Today, made a warming cabinet for jarred honey as I don’t have a means for water based heater.
I invested in a 40w tube heater, with thermostat. Now experimenting how far to open the thermostat to reach and maintain 40c

Very neat

I have something similar to maintain an even temperature in the fermentation cabinet in my brewery. Basically it's a big insulated cupboard that can be heated to the appropriate fermentation temperature by a tube heater even when it's cold outside.

I use an STC-1000 controller to manage the tube heater, so it gets turned off when the temperature sensor measures the programmed temperature. They're available on the likes of Ebay and Amazon for between £10 and £20 I think, but don't get the 12V version by accident If you're not happy playing with wiring (although it's very straightforward) there are similar devices that have a 3-pin plug outlet rather than needing to wire the heater direct to the controller.

If you have the insulation I definitely think it's worth using.

James

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I use an STC-1000 controller to manage the tube heater, so it gets turned off when the temperature sensor measures the programmed temperature. They're available on the likes of Ebay and Amazon for between £10 and £20 I think, but don't get the 12V version by accident If you're not happy playing with wiring (although it's very straightforward) there are similar devices that have a 3-pin plug outlet rather than needing to wire the heater direct to the controller

the built in thermostats on the heaters tend to be unreliable when used in warming cabinets

 

[Big ears]

Made a multi purpose crown board out of larch, very resinous but smells lovely to work with