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They are all production hives Jeff, just different jobs. How many are you looking to over winter? I'm kinda lazy and decided frames all the same size are easier, I agree with Ian. I start them on three and build them from there with the use of fat dummy boards, outwards or upwards, I like to see them as a nice six frame nuc by tucking up time.
Hi Steve, I will probably try to overwinter 10-12 nucs, mix of poly and cedar, 5 and 6 frames. Planning to do some early splits and may use these as the season goes to make up new ones and do a few more once the main flow is nearly over. I don't usually plan ahead for these which is probably why I struggle to get my numbers up later in the season.
 
Do you have a few old broods you could divide? Then knock up some five frame boxes to sit on top? I've watched the prices rise on poly nucs so I'll not be buying in a hurry, I love the six over six for winter or even just a six frame poly but five over five, side by side is a snug winter setup.
I think it's time to put innovative ideas to the fore. I think Ian could add a lot here.
 
Do you have a few old broods you could divide? Then knock up some five frame boxes to sit on top? I've watched the prices rise on poly nucs so I'll not be buying in a hurry, I love the six over six for winter or even just a six frame poly but five over five, side by side is a snug winter setup.
I think it's time to put innovative ideas to the fore. I think Ian could add a lot here.
How do you give them separate entrances Steve, if you divide an old brood box up?
 
How do you give them separate entrances Steve, if you divide an old brood box up?
1 back 1 front I’ll post pics tomorrow… I like the doubles nucs but there a pain when emptying bees or moving nucs up. You can’t bang 1 half out!!!!!
 
How do you give them separate entrances Steve, if you divide an old brood box up?
As Ian says, opposite corners front and back. Floors are solid with rim and central partition. I have one converted to take 3x3 with 3 entrances but not needed to use it yet.
 
Yes, I have a few similar to Mike Palmer's set up. I have made a modified OMF with opposite entrances. Works really well. I also have 3x3 frames. I don't buy poly anymore, too expensive!! I have an order of cedar to make more of these as well as 3 frame nucs.

Agree with Ian, they're a real pain when you need to transfer!
 
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Good to see loads of bees flying from the hives yesterday hopefully only a short while now before it gets warmer.
 
Got the drop on some early prep of the seed beds ready for putting in some early forage.
Rotivator did really well given the dousing the ground has had and got a bittersweet result of some patches already good for sowing and others only fit for a potters wheel.
Temps got it up to a scorching 11c and there was some bee activity at the watering hole.
 
Soon moving from Essex to Devon. I will hopefully sell some colonies and take some with me. However the timing of the move is likely to be too early to safely open the bees.

Today it was 11 degrees And some hives in full sun and out of wind. Two hives were flying freely. I compacted those down from double brood to single. One hive had patches of brood on facing frames, one had none. Bees seemed to settle OK. Sun went in so I did not do anymore. Beginners please note, it is too early to disturb bees, but I have no choice. I was well prepared and it was done swiftly
 
Here’s a couple of five frame boxes that are about 20years old. They’ll sit under a standard roof. All parts run up by a joinery company and I pin together. Thought I had an empty double, I’ll look for it later.
I have some like that but I'm now considering making up nucs as 4/3/4 frames that will sit over a standard box and use as the top of a demaree to see if I can raise 3 queens from any cells generated. Just a thought.
 
Exactly what I have but mine sits on a separate OMF which allows me when I transfer 1 side to another hive to lift the lot up and blow or brush the bees left on the sides into the new box.

Other downside with this is that once a side has been transferred into a new hive I have to block the entrance and place the new hive next to it for all the flyers to get back. It is then removed in the evening.
 
These days heard of some winter losses around, 50% or more per apiary. At the end commentary was mostly varroa, some of beeks lulled or were too smart.. One beek during the summer claimed there is minor qty of varroa, other beek told him to change the treatment but he didn't take advice. Finally he did one additional treatment late in September the floor was filled with varroa - so far he lost half of colonies..
Other beeks who took varroa seriously - no significant losses or some drama.. My colonies are all alive - for now.
 

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