Warming cabinet

[user 382]

Another cheap and useful addition (if you haven't got a thermostat) is one of those digital aquarium thermometers.

 

[oliver90owner]

air mixer

And one goes part-way for the energy/power requirements if mounted internally.
Might be as much as half the power required, as the electric motors are not that efficient and even the mechanical energy of the air will be transferred to thermal energy!

Regards, RAB

 

[Finman]

.
here is one too [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S[/ame]

I need it to green house ventilation in summer

 

[Dave /Oscroft]

warming cabinet

I was thinking of making one over the coming winter does anyone have a final plan now for the construction inc heating elements and thermostats and how to wire it all up that I could copy please.

Cheers
Dave W

 

[Kev]

Hi Dave,
I am working on an idea at the mo - when I have everything sorted I will post on the forum. Unfortunatly will be a week or two.

Kev

 

[thurrock bees]

great looking cabinet, however i would change the light blubs to a fan heater. why? they are phasing out ''normal'' lightbulbs.
Just a thought

 

[victor meldrew]

great looking cabinet, however i would change the light blubs to a fan heater. why? they are phasing out ''normal'' lightbulbs.
Just a thought

Halogen lamps are being produce inside a normal sized globe B.C (75 watts Light equivalent to 100 watts).
Heat is greater per watt with halogen so savings can be made, I haven't experimented but I imagine 30/40 watt halogen would provide a constant heat source for a domestic refrigerator cabinet .
I have used such for years! nowt to break down save the odd bulb replacement.
Using a simple max/min thermometer has shown temp remains constant thoughout a 12 hour cycle ie over night

John Wilkinson

 

[user 382]

A cheap (and in this case, free) alternative to building one from scratch is to use an old fridge/freezer as the insulation box. I stripped out the cooling system and fitted a lamp + dimmer switch to this fridge. A chest freezer would have been better, but this does the job. This even warms super frames (obviously out of the super). The board at the bottom with the foil plate wrapped around it is just to prevent a hot spot on whatever is above the bulb. I sometimes use an old PC fan inside to help circulate the heat. The probe of a digital thermometer also sits inside at the back.

 

[victor meldrew]

SNAP

 

[Mike a]

Made this back in June.
Lined it with 50mm Kingspan. Perfect for two large buckets or 2 national supers. Powered with a 60 Watt bulb and a digital programmable 2 output (lamp/fan) thermostat. Tested to 55'C top end. Only down side its a little cumbersome to shift round but minor issue.

Shes a monster !

 

[DulwichGnome]

I have used one of these, http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AABH100.html, on a flying lead at the bottom of an empty brood box with a metal mesh on top then the box of frames I wanted warming on top of that.

I'm looking to make a proper box next year and fit either one of these, http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Heating_Index/Therm_1/index.html, or these, http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TCWS10.html. They both say 35 which should be ok to warm frames to extract and I'll fit a bypass switch if I need to go above that.

Mike.

 

[drstitson]

thermostat

there are plenty of cheap thermostat kits on ebay - i have a couple that run DIY forced air egg incubators (poly box with little halogen bulb and PC fan).

 

[hedgerow pete]

whilst everyone is being very helpfull and constructive. can i just mention that under the design as is there is no need for any sort of thermastatic control at all.

the simple premise of a bigger or smalll light bulb is far and away the cheapest and the simplest way to control the temp.

the next step of control is a simple dimmer switch to SLIGHTLY control the temp

fans, electronis controlers, complex wiring diagrams, altering componants to suits a differant set of paramiters, are all me to not needed or wanted, KISS

 

[beebreeder]

I was given a warming box by someone giving up, it only holds one 30lb bucket and does not look anything pretty, I nearly threw it on a fire the other day, any takers its free just collect, PM me, it will be gone by the end of the weekend.

 

[Poly Hive]

I agree with HP.

My warming cabinet was a defunct chest freezer, a spare immersion tank control, and three 60 watt light bulbs. That would liquefy 200lbs or so over 48 hours, and make solid set seeded honey mobile enough to pump in 24 hrs.

As the man says folks, KISS

PH

 

[dobby]

very nice
I'm thinking about making one and a soler wax melter

 

[greatbritishhoney]

whilst everyone is being very helpfull and constructive. can i just mention that under the design as is there is no need for any sort of thermastatic control at all.

the simple premise of a bigger or smalll light bulb is far and away the cheapest and the simplest way to control the temp.

the next step of control is a simple dimmer switch to SLIGHTLY control the temp

fans, electronis controlers, complex wiring diagrams, altering componants to suits a differant set of paramiters, are all me to not needed or wanted, KISS

I agree. An old fridge and an inspection lamp with a 40 watt bulb does OK for me.

 

[justme]

I agree. An old fridge and an inspection lamp with a 40 watt bulb does OK for me.

Exactly how I'm intending to do it, as per advice of many, including on here:.) Great forum.

 

[chalkie]

Just finished making my honey warming cabinet

And no, its not warped! just the way the pics show it !

Going to make one of these over the next week or so, do you still have the dimensions to it.

 

[user 6228]

whilst everyone is being very helpfull and constructive. can i just mention that under the design as is there is no need for any sort of thermastatic control at all.

the simple premise of a bigger or smalll light bulb is far and away the cheapest and the simplest way to control the temp.

the next step of control is a simple dimmer switch to SLIGHTLY control the temp

fans, electronis controlers, complex wiring diagrams, altering componants to suits a differant set of paramiters, are all me to not needed or wanted, KISS

Wiring up a PID or a thermostat with a heater is VERY SIMPLE.
The skill required is Ladybird book level. I have a copy of the Ladybird book
of Magnets and Electricity and the relevant info is on page 33. its a power source (13 amp plug) a switch(the controller) and a load (heater).

While it may be unfamiliar to some, they should not be put off.