Very damp hive

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I know they can do the wood for it but where do i get the mesh from PH? i would give it a go no problem if i can find the mesh at the right price.

Google The Mesh Company they have stainless steel, galvanised and black epoxy coated.
 
hey Finman, we have a 9" x 9" ventilation hole in the front wall of our living room, nothing wrong with a bit of ventilation to provide fresh air for the fire

And you keep it open all the time in winter?

How much you pay for one cubic metre of fire food in UK?

Our price is chopped birch wood 35 euros/ loose cubic metre.
 
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look for 450mm squares for Nationals in stainless steel from The Mesh Company in Warrington, I think cheaper direct than via epay. They also do galvanised and coated mesh as well but I recommendthe stainless steel.
 
And you keep it open all the time in winter?

How much you pay for one cubic metre of fire food in UK?

Our price is chopped birch wood 35 euros/ loose cubic metre.

yes to keeping it open all year.

fire food is free to me! (collect from local joinery) ;)
 
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Heat loss picture in human houses

solid floor...

..............................
Heat-loss-in-house.jpg



http://loftstoragestilts.com/loft-insulation/
 
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good illustration, Finman.
we have double glazed windows, insulated loft space, insulated floor, and insulated walls.
plus we live in a slightly warmer country than you, please get over it! ;)
 
good illustration, Finman.
plus we live in a slightly warmer country than you, please get over it! ;)

Some Britishman has calculated that Finland have had 76 war against Russia and we have lost them all. We have much more important to think than how much you have to sweat under your palm trees.


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp0fmzPhm-g&feature=related[/ame]
 
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Yes, upper entrance is good even here but now one ventilate in winter via cover edges. Are you not able to make a ventilation hole in front wall?


Guys are mad. When we talk about upper entrance, most of guys say that it makes "chimney effect". The hole diameter is 1,5 cm. Then you put match sticks and no talk about "chimney effect"

YOu know that even in Finland night is the coldest part of day. Every night air moisture goes to 100% or to 90%

What is the difference with your "climate" and our "climate".

Out door moisture is about 50% when sun shines. Then in boath country it rises to 100%

And what was the difference??????

When it rains, it rains and out moisture is 100%.

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Come out from your tiny isle and see that there are same life outside your world..


Turning into a bit of a little Finlander aren't we?:)
 
I had a similar experience with a strong hive which was dry at oxalic treatment in the first week of January. I subsequently noticed them light on hefting and fed a block of fondant. On inspection yesterday they were sopping wet and not cohesive and on examination were queenless and had no brood. My theory is the queen was damaged by oxalic which stressed the bees causing them to come out of the cluster, become more active and consume stores.
Pre varroa/Oxalic/Poly/Insulation etc bees did just fine in wooden hives, crownboard with feedhole and vented roof and from my memory winter losses were quite small and hives were dry. The only practical reason I can see for extra insulation is if it reduces the amount of stores consumed or allows the drawing of wax in cooler weather.
 
.
Heat loss picture in human houses

solid floor...

..............................
Heat-loss-in-house.jpg


Unless your house is half a metre of good stone - not bits of pine wood:)

http://loftstoragestilts.com/loft-insulation/

Some Britishman has calculated that Finland have had 76 war against Russia and we have lost them all. We have much more important to think than how much you have to sweat under your palm trees.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp0fmzPhm-g&feature=related

And you claim that us british are mad Finman? :D
 
Sorry PBee but no, the bees suffered quite high losses in wooden hives and people were certainly being taught to insulate as far back as the 1930's as I have seen magic lantern slides to that effect.

PH
 
I Pre varroa/Oxalic/Poly/Insulation etc bees did just fine in wooden hives, crownboard with feedhole and vented roof and from my memory winter losses were quite small and hives were dry.

The only practical reason I can see for extra insulation is if it reduces the amount of stores consumed or allows the drawing of wax in cooler weather.


What happened to you one hive, you have 50 and you draw a conclusion according this one hive and with multi factor syndroma varroa/Oxalic/Poly/Insulation.
However, a half of Europe uses varroa/Oxalic/Poly/Insulation and has used 10 years.

It is better to turn back 30 years. With same trick we get rid off varroa.


Further more. The there are individual colonies, which do not survive what ever you do to them. Who knows what is the matter with them.They are few who nurse bees 50 years without any losses.
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