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matchsticks under the crownboard.

I don't have bees but am looking to start next year hopefully.
So can you explain why you are supposed to have matchsticks under the crown board? I have this image of a little wigwam shaped pile of matchsticks sitting there, I'm sure that isn't it. Is it to help prevent the bees thoroughly glueing it down with propilis that it makes it hard to open?

Thanks
 
I don't have bees but am looking to start next year hopefully.
So can you explain why you are supposed to have matchsticks under the crown board? I have this image of a little wigwam shaped pile of matchsticks sitting there, I'm sure that isn't it. Is it to help prevent the bees thoroughly glueing it down with propilis that it makes it hard to open?

Thanks

some people like to use them to lift the crownboard slightly, i matchstick each side, to provide ventilation - it has fans for and against :)
 
Next season I'll be running an experiment managing 5 Langstroth hives Warre style(ish) i.e. using frames, standard sized box (medium), nadiring without a queen excluder and cutting out the 10 day inspection cycle. I'll measure the results against 5 true Warre colonies, managed by the book, and 5 conventional Langstroth, also managed by the book (but it's a different book!).
I'll make the results available. I have no idea where this might lead. I have no absolute loyalty to any particular strand of beekeeping. All that matters to me is keeping healthy, productive and profitable bees.

Any suggestions for how to conduct the trial and what to measure will be appreciated.
Hello,

Loving the sound of that and really looking forward to reading your response.
What factors are you looking to consider control and what variable? Are you going to have your Warre hives with frames? Personal preference but its what I would do if I had Warre.

If I were running this as a scientific test I'd have them in the same place(s) and if possible stocks as closely related as possible so you can say that there is little variation there.
 
For my KTBH I made a frame feeder, the back is shaped like a follower with a straight sided box attached. The box had a slot at the top to allow access, inside is a perforated piece of wood which floats on the syrup. The feeder is the depth of three top bars with a large covered hole which allows topping up of the feed with minimal disturbance of the bees. Over the last two seasons I have had no problems no drowned bees and all feed taken. During construction I sealed the insides of the 'tank' with bees wax.

Can you post a picture?
I'm trying to get a KTBH made in the hope of getting bees next year and it could be something that I can get added.
Thanks
 
Can you post a picture?
I'm trying to get a KTBH made in the hope of getting bees next year and it could be something that I can get added.
Thanks

I made a jam jar feeder that would sit above the bars, removing one bar to allow the bees to feed, used a plywood insert to position the jar on


http://youtu.be/QNg37MZUs5k
 

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