top bar hive

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ok £400 plus smoker and bits and bobs £500 plus foundation and frames £ 145 and a couple of supers pluse bits and bobs £60 + nearly a grand + bees free if you catch them
 
eh? -for a top bar hive? - make your own for a few quid, no foundation or "supers" needed - as I said 2 TBHs, one Warre, 3 colonies, all the gear you'll need - £150 the lot
 
Heavy does have the advantage of being harder to blow off - I've found that it's wise to firmly attach a lighter roof if it's in a windy spot!
 
Nice hive, but ..

It's a bit hard to tell just from the photo but it looks very deep to me. In which case you may have difficulty handling the comb, eg it'll be very heavy/fragile.

What is the length of your top bars?

Did you follow any plans?

Bobster.
 
ok £400 plus smoker and bits and bobs £500 plus foundation and frames £ 145 and a couple of supers pluse bits and bobs £60 + nearly a grand + bees free if you catch them

I fear that you have mis-read my earlier post:
A complete assembled National hive 14x12 brood box plus 2 supers all complete with frames and foundation, queen excluder, crown board, stand, in fact everything. The actual cost of the brood box and 2 super boxes is £255 in cedar which is pretty comparable to a Warre. The frames and foundation cost £145 on top of the £255 which gives you a total hive cost of £400. Remember this is a top of the range hive in cedar, you could quite easily lower the cost by going for pine, etc.

If you ran a National as a 'sustainable hive' it would cost just the stand, mesh floor, boxes, crown board and roof, then add in top bars or frames and you would be looking around £2-300.
 
Heavy does have the advantage of being harder to blow off - I've found that it's wise to firmly attach a lighter roof if it's in a windy spot!

Hive looks very nice indeed, though perhaps a bit on the deep side. Numerous entrances allow you plenty of options though most people seems to be going for an entrance at either end.

If the roof is too heavy then you could hinge it on one side. I made a roof out of builders membrane stretched over a frame which was ultra light
 
I recommend hinges for large TBHs.. 4 foot...
 
Next season I'll be running an experiment managing 5 Langstroth hives Warre style(ish) i.e. using frames, standard sized box (medium), nadiring without a queen excluder and cutting out the 10 day inspection cycle. I'll measure the results against 5 true Warre colonies, managed by the book, and 5 conventional Langstroth, also managed by the book (but it's a different book!).
I'll make the results available. I have no idea where this might lead. I have no absolute loyalty to any particular strand of beekeeping. All that matters to me is keeping healthy, productive and profitable bees.

Any suggestions for how to conduct the trial and what to measure will be appreciated.

Sounds absolutely fascinating! What an opportunity, I am very jealous. not worthy

For it to be a true study you need to determine your parameters at the start and you are going to struggle with the Warre hive because you will have limited access. So we must use what is observable and measurable, perhaps by outcome. So the parameters to measure would be:

POPULATION
* bee numbers (population growth during season)
* number of swarms (variation in population during season - assume £15k bees for a swarm and 7k for a cast)
* size of brood area (how much difference does a queen excluder really make? Are brood boxes too small?)
* population balance - how much drone brood do you get

ENVIRONMENT
* time hive wakes up in the morning
* time hive goes to bed
* date at which hive seems active and at the other end of season when it stops being active.
* overall number of foragers sent out
* temperature of brood box. (Get some of those fridge thermometers with a probe on a wire. These would be inserted through the entrance and into middle of brood box to give you an idea of environmental temperature. This will be different to the brood core temperature - unless the cluster sits right on top of the probe itself!

PRODUCTS
* honey produced
* pollen produced

EXTRANEOUS FACTORS
* you should record the odd factors that might make a difference or might change the outcome of the experiment.

Drop me an email or PM with your progress, I really want to hear how you get on.

My observations between my conventional National hive and my TBH are that the latter are more active, have more brood, more drones, wake up earlier, go to bed later and have more foragers out than the National despite the fact that the queen is now two years old. The TBH mob are up and about a good hour before the others and have far more bees flying that the National lot.

One of my recent fears is that the TBH community is becoming a bit of a ghetto and a minor one at that. No manufacturers, responding to a big demand for TB hives and adding to them to their cataloges, no fall in demand for National hives, no changes in practice or technique. Business as usual at the BKKA. I think the way forward to improve the environment for bees will be to persuade conventional beekeepers to change their practices using their existing equipment, so your experiment is very timely. Myself I am considering a Warre hive for next year but may opt for a Rose hive instead simply because you can extract from the latter but can only press from the former. It is all very well saying that there is no contamination from brood (and they are right) and that we should all eat comb but the great British public want honey as they see it now.
 
Nice hive, but ..

It's a bit hard to tell just from the photo but it looks very deep to me. In which case you may have difficulty handling the comb, eg it'll be very heavy/fragile.

What is the length of your top bars?

Did you follow any plans?

Bobster.

3ft long,17" wide 12" deep top proped up to stop paint sticking:)
watched you tube
 
Well those are the right dimensions, so well done! I think it may be a combination of short legs and the lid up high that gives it a deep appearance.

You can download free plans from the Phil Chandler biobees site but will first have to sell your soul to the devil and drink the blood of a virgin, but having done that they are very useful and full of good ideas and tips.:reddevil:
 
has anyone tried the bottle feeders for rabbits to use for bees or is the sugar water to thick ? any idears
 
BKKA theoretical study programme but the entry into this is the Basic Assessment

Basic assessment - As a TBHer, you would be aware that (all?) the questions are about framed hives and you would be expected to know all about the different frame sizes, etc and know how much honey you can squeeze into an already full brood frame! Of great importance and relevance to you, I am quite sure!
and also to tell me how much honey can be stored is if the frame is already full of brood?

Regards, RAB

no questions about frame sizes, or how much honey can be stored in any frame, let alone a brood frame, when I took my 'basic' exam. ;)

the questions about frame sizes etc. are in the modules.
 
has anyone tried the bottle feeders for rabbits to use for bees or is the sugar water to thick ? any idears

The easiest way is to get an entrance feeder - I use yellow ones from Mod*** Beekeeping as these will sit on the mesh screen at the bottom of the hive and you can poke the feeder bit under the follower board and leave the feeder bit in the emoty section of the hive under the spare top bars. Being technically inside the hive, means no robbing!
 
has anyone tried the bottle feeders for rabbits to use for bees or is the sugar water to thick ? any idears

I use a plastic container with a piece of plastic mesh (the sort of thing kids use to learn cross stitch) cut to shape, a few pieces of dowel stapled to the underside to make sure it floats.

I rest a couple of pieces of wood across the bottom of the hive So that they take the weight rather than the mesh floor. This does assume the hive is tapered in cross section. The container sits under a few of the unused bars.
 
BKKA theoretical study programme but the entry into this is the Basic Assessment

Basic assessment - As a TBHer, you would be aware that (all?) the questions are about framed hives and you would be expected to know all about the different frame sizes, etc and know how much honey you can squeeze into an already full brood frame! Of great importance and relevance to you, I am quite sure!

I would care to make a guess and say the other modules are in a similar vein, but I would only be guessing. TBHs might get a mention somewhere, even if only in passing and/or of a derogatory nature (subliminal, of course).

I now expect the army of rubbish-question compilers to now weigh in with their arguments and explain how pro-TBH they really are - and also to tell me how much honey can be stored is if the frame is already full of brood?

Regards, RAB

You're raising this same criticism weekly now RAB, but you seem to be descending towards Brosville-esque levels of maturity now. Are you trying to make a point, and if so what is it? You've not got a chip on your shoulder about exams have you?

I don't see why you feel you need to rubbish the whole concept of education and certificates just over one duff question. It's particularly strange from one who seems to love jumping in with "the answer". Almost like you want people to be educated, but only if they're educated your way and to your ideas... :rolleyes:
 
I'm getting heartily cheesed off with ad hominem attacks from certain people on this forum! (directed towards both me and others) - I shall refrain from commenting further on the obvious irony of the comments about "maturity"....
 
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I use a plastic container with a piece of plastic mesh (the sort of thing kids use to learn cross stitch) cut to shape, a few pieces of dowel stapled to the underside to make sure it floats.

I rest a couple of pieces of wood across the bottom of the hive So that they take the weight rather than the mesh floor. This does assume the hive is tapered in cross section. The container sits under a few of the unused bars.

I have seen a 'platform' supported on the sloping sides.
Hole in the platform, standard rapid or contact feeder on top.
 
I would agree with that, you can mount any of the smaller type feeders inside the hive, the only ones you cannot get in are Ashforths and Millers
 
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