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The mechanism of colonies -- QE

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Mellifera Crofter 

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One of the basic principles of that method is that an excluder isn't used.
The Rose hive is just a bee box like any other. You can use whatever system you prefer. There is no ‘basic principle’ attached to it. You’re free to use, or not to use, an excluder on a Rose hive, a Warré, a National, or whatever. The box doesn’t make one iota’s difference.
 

fiat500bee 

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The Rose hive is just a bee box like any other. You can use whatever system you prefer. There is no ‘basic principle’ attached to it. You’re free to use, or not to use, an excluder on a Rose hive, a Warré, a National, or whatever. The box doesn’t make one iota’s difference.
True, the Rose Hive method can use any boxes at all, but as it is "a method", it involves management practises, which when they are adopted together, result in a distinctive beekeeping style. Separately, all of the things it involves are parts of traditional beekeeping; . Obviously no-one is forced to do their beekeeping in any particular way; we all have a system. Your system is the "Mellifera Crofter Method" and I am sure that many people would benefit from doing things the way you do the....or you wouldn't do things that way. :)
 
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You may be better off using a same size box system but there is no must - that is just as blinkered as saying you must use a QX full stop many misguided people work brood and a half - that gives the same 'logistical problem' of two sizes od brood frame, but they cope.
Same goes for the statement of you must keep the brood out of the honey boxes it's not true, just because most of us choose not to leave the queen a free rein, doesn't mean we must not.
The different sized boxes (i.e. using shallows over deeps) is just for the convenience of lifting slightly lighter boxes come harvest time, it doesn't mean that the bees are not allowed to brood in them the rest of the time.
I use a three box system, super, brood, super, and have tried with a qx above that and with out. ( the configuration does vary but still a 3 box system)
The box system above have 2,3 box reversals, and frame manipulations.
All colonys like this haven't swarmed and have been some of my strongest all season.
Some of these colonys are wintering on brood/half. imo brood /half isn't a problem.
The half is just another brood box even if it's for a short time.
Size of box makes no difference in this system.
Or shouldn't be perceived to be so.
 

drex 

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Size of box makes no difference to the bees, only the beekeeper, in any system. If she wants to lay in a deep or shallow box then she will, similarly for where they decide to put honey, of course dependant on their natural configuration of a colony
 

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When you keep the hive without excluder, it is important that the hive has a proper ventilatìon. If downstairs is cold, the queen rise to lay to upper boxes,which are warm.

Bees' tendency is to keep brood area together. And the store honey from up towards bottom.

When lowest box is cold, bees store pollen there. It encourages storing a lot , if lowest combs are Brown.
 
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Mellifera Crofter 

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True, the Rose Hive method can use any boxes at all, but as it is "a method", it involves management practises, which when they are adopted together, result in a distinctive beekeeping style....
Tim Rowe's method and the Rose hive (or just one-size box) are discrete from each other. It's just that he popularised both the method and the hive with the name 'Rose'.
 

Finman 

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Tim Rowe's method and the Rose hive (or just one-size box) are discrete from each other. It's just that he popularised both the method and the hive with the name 'Rose'.
If I take an excluder off, to me it is not a method.

Our Professionals do not use excluder on the first half of summer. Then they put the excluder into hives at the beginning of July.
 

fiat500bee 

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Tim Rowe's method and the Rose hive (or just one-size box) are discrete from each other. It's just that he popularised both the method and the hive with the name 'Rose'.
He invented and patented the specific design and dimensions of the Rose box, although as he states his book, it is simply a modification to the National. Obviously anyone can use any one size of box and no doubt many people were doing so long before he claimed OSB for his own. It is also possible to follow his guidance using any boxes you wish. But since Tim Rowe's method of beekeeping is dependent on using his chosen techniques in accordance with his specific, one size of box, the Rose Hive Method and the Rose Hive are, in fact, connected.

This only relates to the thread title in the fact that Tim Rowe absolutely positively despises the use of a QE and he explains this and his every other opinion and approach to beekeeping in a way which is calm. positive and well-reasoned.
 
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ericbeaumont 

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The colony is free to build whatever comb they want, where they want and use it for any purpose they want.
Works well, doesn't it? I work for a beefarmer and we run 150 that way, but on Nationals and with foundation. The top two boxes (usually of four or five) are taken when all is honey. Swarming is low provided boxes are given early; they over winter on two and the third is added in between when they're strong in spring. Only time a QX is needed is if supers are on for cut comb; saves a fortune on QXs.
 

Mellifera Crofter 

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...But since Tim Rowe's method of beekeeping is dependent on using his chosen techniques in accordance with his specific, one size of box, the Rose Hive Method and the Rose Hive are, in fact, connected. ,,,
Well, that's where you're wrong. The method and the hive are not dependent on each other. End of story.
 
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deemann1 

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I have kept hives without excluder 55 years. Nothing such has halpened what you believe.
You should try yourself, what bees do in such hives.

:it is impossible to imagine what hapens if you do not not nurse the hive during summer. However, nothing good happens.
Interesting
How often do you inspect your hives and let's say you have 3 or 4 boxes on a hive what's your form of inspection regime
 

ShinySideUp 

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Well next season I think I'm going to do it with two of my four hives, one in light shade -- the one mentioned in my OP -- and one of those in full sun. I'm not going to mess with my most prolific hive that has consistently provided most of my honey for three years and doesn't swarm. I know I said honey wasn't that important but I do want some for my porridge in the winter.
 

Finman 

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Interesting
How often do you inspect your hives and let's say you have 3 or 4 boxes on a hive what's your form of inspection regime
In May hives are same size as winter. I follow, how brooding goes in each hive.
During swarming time I inspect in 7 days intervall. I look the need of space . July is main yield season and I must follow in coming honey and need of boxes.
 
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