Sublimox - using an eke

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Jimmy

Drone Bee
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Location
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40
I'm thinking about investing in a sublimox vaporizer.
My hives are on a variety of different floors, some poly, some wood, some homemade, some kewl type, mostly OMF etc so I am thinking of making an eke for treatment. I've seen fatsharks (aka the apiarist) hole in floor approach but due to the diversity of floor types I think that having an eke that I could transfer from the top of one hive to the next would be easier.
Is moving an eke between hives when treating practical and effective? Or perhaps a couple so that I could treat one hive whilst the previous hive is given time for the oxalic to circulate.
 
I'm thinking about investing in a sublimox vaporizer.
My hives are on a variety of different floors, some poly, some wood, some homemade, some kewl type, mostly OMF etc so I am thinking of making an eke for treatment. I've seen fatsharks (aka the apiarist) hole in floor approach but due to the diversity of floor types I think that having an eke that I could transfer from the top of one hive to the next would be easier.
Is moving an eke between hives when treating practical and effective? Or perhaps a couple so that I could treat one hive whilst the previous hive is given time for the oxalic to circulate.

Your on a good track, I've heard through a friend who been sublimating through a top cover and its more successful. I think Hivemaker (Peter Little) has done a lot of work trying this out. He might be able to shed more light on the success rate. I will be getting a Sublimox later this year and need to look at poly nuc sublimation from above, As otherwise its going to be tricky through a poly base. Anyone else thought of a good solution?
 
If your going to put the sublimox into the top of the hive I think you'll get very poor distribution through the hive, as the hot OA vapour wants to rise. That could possibly give rise to a higher temp and high OA concn at the top which wouldn't be ideal either.
 
I've found the simplest way by far, is a metal sheet cut to size and as I do mine in winter I find I can tilt the BB to slide the sheet underneath and then "seal" round the edges if necessary and then slide in the vaporiser and away you go....
 
If your going to put the sublimox into the top of the hive I think you'll get very poor distribution through the hive, as the hot OA vapour wants to rise. That could possibly give rise to a higher temp and high OA concn at the top which wouldn't be ideal either.

Ignore me - I just realised that the sublimox is one of those vaporisers that blows the OA into the hive!
 
So do you have to wait for ages to take it off ?
 
Your on a good track, I've heard through a friend who been sublimating through a top cover and its more successful. I think Hivemaker (Peter Little) has done a lot of work trying this out. He might be able to shed more light on the success rate. I will be getting a Sublimox later this year and need to look at poly nuc sublimation from above, As otherwise its going to be tricky through a poly base. Anyone else thought of a good solution?

Correct he does. I use 2 ekes as the vapour generated from the sublimox takes a minute or so to fully descend into the hive and can be treating the next hive whilst waiting. I made mine with clear perspex boards so I can see whats happening. All the bees descend downwards with the vapour and you can just lift off the eke and replace the crown-board (or whatever) with no problem.
Damn effective it is too.
 
:
Correct he does. I use 2 ekes as the vapour generated from the sublimox takes a minute or so to fully descend into the hive and can be treating the next hive whilst waiting. I made mine with clear perspex boards so I can see whats happening. All the bees descend downwards with the vapour and you can just lift off the eke and replace the crown-board (or whatever) with no problem.
Damn effective it is too.

:thanks:
 
Correct he does. I use 2 ekes as the vapour generated from the sublimox takes a minute or so to fully descend into the hive and can be treating the next hive whilst waiting. I made mine with clear perspex boards so I can see whats happening. All the bees descend downwards with the vapour and you can just lift off the eke and replace the crown-board (or whatever) with no problem.
Damn effective it is too.

:yeahthat::thanks:
Yes thank you for that, very interesting. Can you post a few pics of what ekes you use, on a dry run without vapour etc. Would be very useful. Thanks in advance
 
:iagree:, would be great to see

Pictures may have to wait a day or so....basically they are about 2 inches deep wood with a perspex crown-board off a poly hive cemented on with bathroom sealant and some rubber draught excluder stapled along the bottom to make a better seal with the hive....plus a small hole that the nozzle from the sublimox fits into. Nowt special.
I'll dig some out tomorrow and try and do a photo but not really necessary..(besides you might make fun of my woodworking :) )..the clear perspex was just for me to see what was happening...now I know you could just use a wooden top.
You do get some OA crystallization on the far side of the wood away from the nozzle which gives a good indication of the pressure that the OA vapor is "injected" at.
 
Pictures may have to wait a day or so....basically they are about 2 inches deep wood with a perspex crown-board off a poly hive cemented on with bathroom sealant and some rubber draught excluder stapled along the bottom to make a better seal with the hive....plus a small hole that the nozzle from the sublimox fits into. Nowt special.
I'll dig some out tomorrow and try and do a photo but not really necessary..(besides you might make fun of my woodworking :) )..the clear perspex was just for me to see what was happening...now I know you could just use a wooden top.
You do get some OA crystallization on the far side of the wood away from the nozzle which gives a good indication of the pressure that the OA vapor is "injected" at.

I've been playing with making a fan driven sublimator using a computer fan, a galvanised adaptable box with lid to hold the sublimator and a bit of 20 mm conduit with an elbow to duct the sublimate into a feed hole. Unfortunately even with the airflow throttled down it has too much of a cooling effect and inhibits sublimation. Have you any idea what the input power of a sublimox is?
 
I've been playing with making a fan driven sublimator using a computer fan, a galvanised adaptable box with lid to hold the sublimator and a bit of 20 mm conduit with an elbow to duct the sublimate into a feed hole. Unfortunately even with the airflow throttled down it has too much of a cooling effect and inhibits sublimation. Have you any idea what the input power of a sublimox is?

Yes, it's 300 watts. The sublimox works by having a sealed chamber that is heated. It beeps when at the right temperature and you put your OA crystals (sorry Apibioxal crystals) in the lid which has a silicon seal. Your turn it over and the OA drops into the heated pan, sublimates and expands and the only outlet is a nozzle.....the sublimation generates the pressure and bobs your aunty. Like your first woman it's all done in seconds . It's a damn powerful stream of vapour and safety masks are obligatory.....and the sublimox is also damn expensive now the pound has sunk.
I think the economics come down to number of hives to treat and time per hive you are willing to invest, I've only had mine for a couple of years now and its already paid for itself....vs strips...plus (so far) bees are in excellent health.
 
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Yes, it's 300 watts. The sublimox works by having a sealed chamber that is heated. It beeps when at the right temperature and you put your OA crystals (sorry Apibioxal crystals) in the lid which has a silicon seal. Your turn it over and the OA drops into the heated pan, sublimates and expands and the only outlet is a nozzle.....the sublimation generates the pressure and bobs your aunty. Like your first woman it's all done in seconds . It's a damn powerful stream of vapour and safety masks are obligatory.....and the sublimox is also damn expensive now the pound has sunk.
I think the economics come down to number of hives to treat and time per hive you are willing to invest, I've only had mine for a couple of years now and its already paid for itself....vs strips...plus (so far) bees are in excellent health.

Thanks for the description. It's a different avenue to explore - now where's my component catalogue :)
 
This is the eke but upside down.
7a2a9076e43166e6b531600087055e9a_3821.jpg
 
Well everything's ready to go with ekes and PPE.

How do people seal polynucs, including paynes, Maisemore and Stehr versions?
I did trial run with a single polynuc I have at home and lots of vapour escaped through the omf.

Is a piece of deep foam to temporarily put the hive on suitable?
 
Is a piece of deep foam to temporarily put the hive on suitable?

Yes that will do just fine, Jim, all of our Paynes poly nucs have a 30mm thick section of sponge/foam cut to fit into the lower open mesh floor recess.
 

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