Snelgrove board

[JC47]

I've read previous posts about Snelgrove boards. I have TBS Nationals and was going to make one but it seems they are for BBS hives, Am I correct ?

 

[Quis Custodiet]

Does it matter; provided there is at least a beespace top and bottom? They will not be in position indefinitely and the opportunity for it to be fouled with wax and propolis is limited.

 

[For want of a better word]

I've read previous posts about Snelgrove boards. I have TBS Nationals and was going to make one but it seems they are for BBS hives, Am I correct ?

Top is 12mm bottom is 9mm for a bottom bee space board.... I think the WBKA have a PDF on design by Wally Shaw?

Just measured the one that I have and it is 9mm top and bottom.... used to work OK when I had very swarmy imported bees that were very free with the propolis!

Myttin da

 

[Beefriendly]

You could save yourself some work (if DIYing) and make a Horlsey board instead, It's simpler and basically does the same job without all he fuss and faffing around of opening different slots at 3 day intervals. Typical tyke invention.

 

[Quis Custodiet]

You could save yourself some work (if DIYing) and make a Horlsey board instead, It's simpler and basically does the same job without all he fuss and faffing around of opening different slots at 3 day intervals. Typical tyke invention.

Spoilsport.

 

[Nige.Coll]

I don't think it's that critical as long as the bees can get in and out. Your only bleeding the foragers off.

Snelgrove used 1 1/4" x 3/8" battens with 1 1/4" wedges cut out. He advised attaching them with string so the aren't lost in his book.

 

[Poly Hive]

Oh the joys of fiddling with the bees.....

Much simpler to do a basic AS and be done with it.

I forsee grief and wails.

PH

 

[Millet]

Oh the joys of fiddling with the bees.....

Much simpler to do a basic AS and be done with it.

I forsee grief and wails.

PH

I am by no way a experienced bee keeper BUT .

 

[Quis Custodiet]

Oh the joys of fiddling with the bees.....

Much simpler to do a basic AS and be done with it.

I forsee grief and wails.

PH

Far too simple. Nothing compares with the joy of twidding...sorry manipulating with eight little doors. Divide the board in half for two nucs and you can have twelve little doors with which to play......the sheer joy!!!

 

[alldigging]

Oh the joys of fiddling with the bees.....

Much simpler to do a basic AS and be done with it.

I forsee grief and wails.

PH

Nah it works, is just a bit of an issue if you're a bit short.
Solves a shortage of roofs and floors.

 

[Swarm]

Solves a shortage of roofs and floors.

 

[Millet]

I'm curious with this method , do any commercial or folk with 50+ hives use this method .

 

[masterBK]

manipulating with eight little doors ? All the ones I have ever seen have just 6 doors

 

[REDWOOD]

I would never find the time to do all that opening and closing every few days, besides that any more than a couple of hives would confuse the pants of my beekeeping. I'll stick with a vertical AS


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[Quis Custodiet]

manipulating with eight little doors ? All the ones I have ever seen have just 6 doors

Obviously made by cheapskates!

 

[Little John]

I once attempted to read an article "How to use a Snelgrove Board", and my eyes glazed-over after just two paragraphs - couldn't be arsed to wade through that verbage a second time.

Apparently the S/B has multiple uses - what do you intend using it for ? As there's probably a much simpler way.

Pretty-much the same story with the Morris Board, except I did build one and figured out how to manipulate it's four doors. Then I discovered the Cloake Board ... with no doors.

These days I quite happily run my circus without any 'toys for boys'.
LJ

 

[For want of a better word]

Agree that with a lot of colonies the Snellgrove board method would be very time consuming!

The Cloake board however is a very useful tool in queen rearing.... basically a framed queen excluder with one entrance door ( closeable) at the front, and a solid board that is slid over the queen excluder.

David Woodward in his book Queen Bee: Biology, Rearing an Breeding describes the Cloak boards use in understandable terminology.

Basically to split 2 full brood boxes and stimulate an emergency response for cell building with the cloak board slid in ( from the back) and closed, between 2 broods .. with queen in bottom box,and top front entrance opened to allow a top entrance ( bottom box and floor rotated 180 degrees... and then 24-36 hours later the Cloak board slider removed,the full length sine above the qe closed off with a strip ... which sets the colony up as a cell finisher, in supersedure response mode.

Easy Peasy!

Yeghes da

 

[Poly Hive]

lets start with the anecdotal story that when a certain person visited Mr S he was told by Mrs S that he was busy collection one of his swarms.

Extrapolated from there.... would I use it. No. Far too time consuming and not as far as I k now guaranteed to work.

What I do is leave the parent colony with as young a cell/grub as I can and make up at least two nucs. One with the laying queen, insurance nuc, and one with a sealed cell. Insurance nuc 2. Nice and easy and simple. But then I can find queens...LOL

PH

 

[Little John]

The Cloake board however is a very useful tool in queen rearing....

It's the best of the bunch, certainly - and I used to use one ... without any door.

But - if you think the Cloake Board is good - then check out the Joseph Clemens Q-ve Starter-Finisher system. It's exactly the same as the system used by Laidlaw, only scaled-down to Nuc proportions, more appropriate to the hobbyist.

I now set one up at the beginning of the year, and keep it going right throughout the season - it's always there, ready to use at the drop of a hat. Highly recommended.
LJ

 

[Quis Custodiet]

manipulating with eight little doors ? All the ones I have ever seen have just 6 doors

I am unable to find the book, but to the best of my recollection the board depicted by Snellgrove had eight openings......he seemed to not like his fellow beekeepers!