Silly Newbie question about Hive Floor

[nealeholl]

My hive has a perforated metal floor, but also the option of a slide-in metal tray for collecting varroa drop. Am I right in thinking that the only time I should have the slide-in tray is when I'm using the Apiguard, or does it have a role during winter in preventing draughts coming in through the floor?

 

[greatbritishhoney]

I think most beekeepers would only put the tray in over winter if it was a particularly cold period.
Personally I wouldn't bother. It was minus 16 here last winter and I didn't put the tray in. All colonies survived.

 

[drstitson]

you're spot on. only in during treatment or brief monitoring of drop mid season.

otherwise open - hence the name OMF!!!!

 

[user 6228]

draught excluder -- get some expanded metal mesh (8 to 19mm hole size) and put in place of the tray. The mesh called lath for plastering works and is cheap. The mesh appears solid when viewed almost horizontally( i.e. to drafts) but open viewed vertically (falling mites view!)

 

[Beesand]

I'm also a newbie and the advice I was given was to fit the board to catch the varroa drop then remove it after the treatment but to replace the board again if it snows.

I'm not sure whether replacing the board if its snows may have something to do with the glare giving the bees a false impression of good weather maybe????

 

[milkermel]

personally only use it during treatment - my lot are in a fairly exposed area and it got cold down here in cornwall this winter all colonies were fine come the spring

 

[Flatters]

I only put the board in when monitoring. Minus temperatures last year for around six weeks and no problems. If it snows I lay a bit of wood against the hive to shade the entrance.

 

[Cazza]

I'm also a newbie and the advice I was given was to fit the board to catch the varroa drop then remove it after the treatment but to replace the board again if it snows.

I'm not sure whether replacing the board if its snows may have something to do with the glare giving the bees a false impression of good weather maybe????

No need to replace the board if it snows. Just do as Flatters suggests and shade entrance with board.
Cazza

 

[MuswellMetro]

No need to replace the board if it snows. Just do as Flatters suggests and shade entrance with board.
Cazza

some of us also put insulation under the roof, theory is the bees move up higher to the warm area

but yes OMF open in winter and no further ventilation,

if on solid floor or for some reason you feel you want to leave the varroa board in ,then you will need top ventilation ( the odd match stick under the crown baord otherwise you get mold

 

[oliver90owner]

or for some reason you feel you want to leave the varroa board in

Don't, is my thought. Although it may well be too cold for wax and detritus-scoffing fauna, that lot, down there, will not be healthy for the bees - if it gets warm and damp and fungi get to work on it. Better off dry and clear. I only temporarily part-close my floors on some hives if the weather is really foul. Always some of the floor is left open.

RAB

 

[Finman]

.
The floor open bees must eate more food to keep themselves warm.

So you need to feed bees winter along to keep them alive.

 

[BBG]

My hive has a perforated metal floor, but also the option of a slide-in metal tray for collecting varroa drop. Am I right in thinking that the only time I should have the slide-in tray is when I'm using the Apiguard, or does it have a role during winter in preventing draughts coming in through the floor?

Not a silly question - still many have not read:

http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman/kenhomf.html


Finman, you know bees in these Sceptered Isles are a special case unlike the rest of the world!

 

[Pete Nicholson]

I overwintered last year with OMF but had a second OMF (plastic - home constructed) in the tray slot. When it got really cold I popped a sheet of cardboard in the second floor to give around 75% block yet still allow ventiation.
The problem I was finding with just the OMF was that the bees were bearding underneath and when it got really cold they just stayed ther and presumably died. This second floor solved the problem and I continue to use it throught the summer. I do put the monitor tray in but only for 24/48 hours max when treating.
Hope this is of use.
P.

 

[BBG]

I overwintered last year with OMF but had a second OMF (plastic - home constructed) in the tray slot. When it got really cold I popped a sheet of cardboard in the second floor to give around 75% block yet still allow ventiation.
The problem I was finding with just the OMF was that the bees were bearding underneath and when it got really cold they just stayed ther and presumably died. This second floor solved the problem and I continue to use it throught the summer. I do put the monitor tray in but only for 24/48 hours max when treating.
Hope this is of use.
P.

I think a recommendation for tray in for duration if treating (assume you use thymol treatment?) is recommended.

 

[Flatters]

Peter what do you mean by bearding underneath the floor? Are you saying that they came out of the hive in the cold and bearded under the hive. Or did they only do it when it was snowy? A single floor should be enough and when it is snowy shielding the entrance from the sun should help.

During last winter there was a big pile of bees on the OMF in the middle but it was on the inside. This was just due to the natural dying off of bees during the winter.

 

[Spadaman]

MM Said "some of us also put insulation under the roof, theory is the bees move up higher to the warm area"

I have seen (poss on this forum) that 50mm Kingspan or equivalent is recommended. My hives only have 4"" roofs so if I add 50mm ( 2") under the roof this only leaves 2" for the roof to sit on... if you get my drift. I am a bit worried that the wind might lift the roof off.

I normally use a brick on the top of the roofs but I suppose a concrete block could be used. Has anyone else had a problem with this?

 

[drstitson]

ratchet strap - sensible to have them anyway.

in addition - good idea to have two-three blocks of insulation in a super - bottom one with a take away container sized hole for fondant feeding. can remove top blocks (not too tight a fit) and check on progress of feeder without disturbing bees.

pics show strapped hives with insulated crownboards on top and entrances blocked by normal deep crownboards over the porches - leaving just the feeder hole for brave souls who felt need to venture out once snow going.

 

[Andy Duff]

OMF the best thing since sliced bread! All the waste goes out, fresh air in. We have aquired some very tatty hive parts that we are reconditioning and we made OMFs for the resulting hives. leave the tray or floor out permanently only use for inspection. In the coldest winter the bees will be better off as the condensation forms lower than the bees or even on the OMF and will drip clear of the hive.

 

[Spadaman]

Ah ha ratchet straps - great idea.

And I like the new entrance porch for the girls.....

Many thanks

 

[drstitson]

"And I like the new entrance porch for the girls....."

it's very convenient that the crownboards on their sides fit snugly over the porches and are held on by the loose edges of the metal covering of the porch roofs.