Setting up a bait hive advice please

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BabyBee

House Bee
Joined
May 26, 2010
Messages
128
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Location
Fife, Scotland
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
2
My neighbour has 2 hives, one of which is amazingly strong and,. presumably will be swarming soon. She's knocked off QC's (empty)but realises that this won't prevent what they want to do.

She has just gone off for 10 days (family wedding so couldn't be avoided) and before leaving put on second BB's and also additional supers in the hopes that this will stall them until she gets back.

I noticed quite a few bees in unusual places today (inside a shed, trying to get under the roof of an outbuilding for instance) so I am presuming that they might be scouting around for a new home. Would this be logical?

Anyway, my question is this: if I put an empty hive nearby, and they DO want to swarm, might this be attractive for them?

Oh, forgot to say that the Q is clipped so she wouldnt be going far - last time she swarmed (last year) she only made it to the underside of the hive she was in!

Any tips welcome:bigear:
 
In my experience, the best bait hives are the ones you never intended to be bait hives. Stacks of supers, manky comb waiting for recycling, and last year I even had a swarm in a pile of feeders, which drowned as soon as it rained and the feeder filled up (I consoled myself with the knowledge the feeder was watertight).

The common factor seems to be stuff that already smells of bees is attractive, especially used brood frames.
 
Actually, if the queen is clipped, knocking off queen cells will prevent them swarming succesfully for 10 days or more.
 
In my experience, the best bait hives are the ones you never intended to be bait hives. Stacks of supers, manky comb waiting for recycling, and last year I even had a swarm in a pile of feeders, which drowned as soon as it rained and the feeder filled up (I consoled myself with the knowledge the feeder was watertight).

The common factor seems to be stuff that already smells of bees is attractive, especially used brood frames.
:iagree:
 
In my experience, the best bait hives are the ones you never intended to be bait hives. Stacks of supers, manky comb waiting for recycling, and last year I even had a swarm in a pile of feeders, which drowned as soon as it rained and the feeder filled up (I consoled myself with the knowledge the feeder was watertight).

The common factor seems to be stuff that already smells of bees is attractive, especially used brood frames.

So what do you do if you are new to beekeeping and have no used stuff? Apart from Lemongrass oil that is.
 
We just captured our very first swarm in a hive in which we'd given the top bars a little smear of honey. But the scouts were drawn to the scent of the foundation even before that.
 
checked them today and seemed to be a few QC's being built. not in the middle though but seems like they fancy a new home sooner rather than later!

bait hive set up 'next door' and will wait to see what, if anything, develops!!
 
i love them...and believe me if i thought for a second they would make a difference, i would buy one immediately!
 
J

Just thought I'd resurrect this old post instead of starting fresh.
I read that bait hives should be at least 3 feet off the ground is this true? If bees take up residence and you don't see them for a few days and Lower the hive by will they find the entrance?
Is it true that you won't catch a swarm from your own apiary? I don't want to catch anyone else's as there was efb in my area last year.
Should I set the bait hive up a few fields away?
Thanks
 
Just thought I'd resurrect this old post instead of starting fresh.
I read that bait hives should be at least 3 feet off the ground is this true? If bees take up residence and you don't see them for a few days and Lower the hive by will they find the entrance?
Is it true that you won't catch a swarm from your own apiary? I don't want to catch anyone else's as there was efb in my area last year.
Should I set the bait hive up a few fields away?
Thanks

Bees don't follow the rules - if they like the space, they will go for it.

Seeley's research found that on the large, bees chose a site about 12-15 feet up, South(ish) facing, shaded but with plenty of sun(!) with a volume of around 40 litres (a box about 15 inches cubed) with an entrance hole about an inch and a quarter diameter. They would also chose a site slightly smaller rather than larger.
But in the absence of such an ideal home - they could choose anything.
I know of a site inside a stone wall, very small entrance,three feet up. West facing totally shaded by a mahoosive yew tree (they get sun for about five minutes a day- if they're lucky!) and there have been bees there for years.
as for moving the hive, anything more than three feet, and they will go back to the original site, so you have to move it gradually, or close it up and move it more than three miles.
a Bait hive for your own apiary will work better if it is more than 300 yards away (but please see my first statement!! :D
 
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On ebay - Thought they were 'specially' painted by celebs? Might cost a bit then.
 
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