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Like I said, when I revieled to my self, what heating apparatus is good, I went to pet shop and I bought diffetent kind of terrarium heaters. Next day I looked, how different size of colonies react on extra heat.

May I mention, that I have university education of biological researcher.


I have heard about Australian " poppy cutting". National hobby there.

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The only reliable way to provide this is in using either solar irradiation or
ground heat. I have written articles on the topic before today with the
science explained.

Can you provide a link / reference please?

An all too common reason for winter loss here in UK is that a small colony starves due to not being able to move to the food supply which is millimetres away. So, as you say, the right heat/temperature at the right time is key. Given the rapid drop in price and size of batteries and solar chargers, plus the fact that most beekeepers are hobbyists with only two hives (and poly hives are increasingly used), the subject is worthy of further consideration. Electronics and sensoring has also seen great changes which, in theory at least, should allow a link to be made with the bee's needs and the hive temperature.
 
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The only reliable way to provide this is in using either solar irradiation or
ground heat. I have written articles on the topic before today


Again all one can hope is that few to none take his message as legit
information worth applying, anywhere.

Bill

normal__DSC3245.jpg


NO alive

13-3-5301822.jpg
 
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Camel and elephant met each others

- elephant: Why do you have **** on your back side?
- camel: If I had such face as you have, I would not open my mouth at all.
 
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It is now here 14 alock. My cottage area has -9C

In the morning, when the sun started to rise 9:30, temp was - 24C.

Nice to get advices, what to do. ... I do nothing. I am in Helsinki 150 km away. And this is normal February. Nothing End of World here.

I go to look my hives when this armageddon is over.

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finman, do you think 5w heat mat is too powerful for a national hive 1 brood box? I mean is it going to be too warm in there?
Temperatures will be -4 at night and around 2 to 3 daytime.
Thx

Sent from my SM-J710F using Tapatalk
 
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finman, do you think 5w heat mat is too powerful for a national hive 1 brood box? I mean is it going to be too warm in there?
Temperatures will be -4 at night and around 2 to 3 daytime.
Thx

Sent from my SM-J710F using Tapatalk

Not at all. IT depends, where you situate it.

But if you put it onto floor, it works best then.

Second best place is against side wall.

If you have a mesh floor, change it to a solid floor.



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Not at all. IT depends, where you situate it.

But if you put it onto floor, it works best then.

Second best place is against side wall.

If you have a mesh floor, change it to a solid floor.



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Thanks for the quick reply, I'll place it on the floor then. Why are suggesting to use solid floor, would it be temporary because of the cold spell?

Sent from my SM-J710F using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the quick reply, I'll place it on the floor then. Why are suggesting to use solid floor, would it be temporary because of the cold spell?

Sent from my SM-J710F using Tapatalk

Keep the heater the whole spring. Then you se how it help the build up.

I do not calculate cold spells. They come and go every week. Bees enlarge their brood area as much as they can, and then it arrives cold week and colder nights. Last summer I kept heaters up to half of Juny.

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"The only reliable way to provide this is in using either solar irradiation or
ground heat. I have written articles on the topic before today with the
science explained."

Can you provide a link / reference please?
Not being in the habit of crossreferencing forums I can say I use
the same UserID in every b'keep forum I read.


An all too common reason for winter loss here in UK is that a small colony starves due to not being able to move to the food supply which is millimetres away. So, as you say, the right heat/temperature at the right time is key. Given the rapid drop in price and size of batteries and solar chargers, plus the fact that most beekeepers are hobbyists with only two hives (and poly hives are increasingly used), the subject is worthy of further consideration. Electronics and sensoring has also seen great changes which, in theory at least, should allow a link to be made with the bee's needs and the hive temperature.

The monitoring (electronicly) would assist with building a matrix
of results under differing conditions, and would require some method
of powering up.
Both the solar irradiation and ground heat options are thermosyphon
systems over hydrallics using antifreeze, neither require any power
source for tbe majority of regional applications.

Bill
 
IF indeed those boxes are your own then it is very clear
why you lose to winter. You would equally struggle in
our climate, definitely.

Bill

Indeed........Your writings are odd.

Indeed they are not my hives. But if you see hives on opposite of the globe, you are not able to see, why somebody looses hives hives. Such human does not exist.

Surely you have enormous amount of knowledge about varroa.

Those hives are not mine. Nothing wrong in them. They are insulated hives and self made from plywood, from so called " water prood canoe ply". Nuc is Poly. Ply boxes are perharps 40 years old., one box may be 60 years old. The boxes have various origin.

That is the way we nurse hives. They do not need more. As you see, the hives have served half century as hobby hives. No professional keep such furniture.

You do not have a slightest competence to evaluate what we are doing here. If somepody keeps few hives as a hobby, why you make such älämölö about it.
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You would equally struggle



If beekeeping would not have any struckling and difficulties, it would be very boring. Extracting and selling honey. If it would be so simple, I would have stoped beekeeping 50 years ago.

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Indeed........Your writings are odd.
In the view of a very few...?.. yes, akin to casting rosy apples before
toothless hogs

You do not have a slightest competence to evaluate what we are doing here.
You know this how?


If somepody[sic] keeps few hives as a hobby, why you make such
älämölö[sic] about it.
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I refer you to your own OP... to wit;
"Problem is that some seen of bees may die when
food is finish in the seam. Bees cannot move to
next seam over cold frame bar."

You are not the only beeOwner to have that experience.
You are however the only beeOwner spreading misinformation
on resolutions.
IF you understand "peer review" you would accept challenge from
the Internet over your claims. That concept is a struggle for you.
Although, I did recognise some time ago you have few peers.

I wish you Luck in your final years... for mine you have unwelcomed
yourself in my read. Bye....

Bill
 
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As I wrote in another chain, energy consumption is 6.6 W, if the hive consumes 1 kg sugar in a month. In our coldest months consumption is often 2 kg sugar per month. Heat production is then 13 W.

Strange enough, the colony may consume in the cellar wintering 2 kg/month.

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Cold period seems to continue quite long. So far we have here -10C by day and -20 by night. 10 days forecast continues as same.

The problem of wintering is that at that temperature they cannot reformulate the cluster and long cold periods are more dangerous than short term cold snaps.

I know that and I really do not need any advice from Australia, where +40C heat has mixed somebody's head.


What I will do is to put more heaters into hives. I do not even ask permission from my wife.


Bees does not struggle. I have never seen that happening. If food is finish, bees do not know it. They just die. ... And normally I do not touch hives before cleansing flight. They make poo in their pants if I disturb them this time of year.


I can image their struggle: does poo stay inside!!!!

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