Permission to use matchsticks?!

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If you keep bees, you will find out what very quickly what top ventilation does.
At leas in my hives it makes the hive too cold. Even if I keep in brood boxes upper holes open, I do not keep them in supers.

I look the need of ventilation from numbers of ventilating bees on landing board. ... Not from books. Research makes no sense in this issue.

My point is although many support ventilation there is almost no really hard evidence to support it, at least as far as I have been able to look.
I take my cue from the bees. They go to great lengths to seal the tops of their nests with a vapour barrier. Unless you have hard evidence otherwise go with the bees
 
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My point is although many support ventilation there is almost no really hard evidence to support it, at least as far as I have been able to look.
I take my cue from the bees. They go to great lengths to seal the tops of their nests with a vapour barrier. Unless you have hard evidence otherwise go with the bees

You can see with your own eyes, what ventilation hive needs.
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My point is although many support ventilation there is almost no really hard evidence to support it, at least as far as I have been able to look.
I take my cue from the bees. They go to great lengths to seal the tops of their nests with a vapour barrier. Unless you have hard evidence otherwise go with the bees

Do you support the use of solid floors (on conventional wooden and polyhives)?
 
I take my cue from the bees. They go to great lengths to seal the tops of their nests with a vapour barrier. Unless you have hard evidence otherwise go with the bees

Even closely fitting coverboards get propalised up... Bees DON'T LIKE top ventilation!

Bees are quite particular about how they like their accommodation, they'll tear down and rebuild comb to the cell size they want. When (if ever) the bees start removing the propolis from the gaps at the top of the hive, only then should one re-consider.
 
Do you support the use of solid floors (on conventional wooden and polyhives)?
Thermally, as usual it's down to the detail of each.
A thin wooden solid floor is probably as bad as a poorly designed mesh floor.
A well designed mesh floor has the the potential to be as warm as a solid polystyrene floor but can't match a solid PIR. Btw the avatar picture left is from of my CFD investigation into floor entrance performance/ interaction

The issues with mesh floors are
1)Lack of depth between the mesh and open space to the side I.e. The varroa tray slot
2)Performance in windy conditions.

Both of these can be fixed but seldom are

From a behavour point of view I would think it was best to have as little light as possible going through the mesh floor since bees are very sensitive to light levels
 
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From a behavour point of view I would think it was best to have as little light as possible going through the mesh floor since bees are very sensitive to light levels

I wonder about that and have tried to mitigate it.

FWIW: matchsticks came out after 24 hours. No prop. But these are true Buckies.
 
From a behavour point of view I would think it was best to have as little light as possible going through the mesh floor since bees are very sensitive to light levels

You've just given me an idea which will also solve another problem.

As the strongest light will be from the side rather than the ground, ditto the wind in winter, closing the open back side of the floor would help to keep out both of those.
I have some offcuts of heavy rubber sheet from a pond liner which will make an effective curtain for the whole of the rear side, hanging over the inspection board slot. That'll be much easier than trying to make a door to exactly fit the width of the slot.

The other problem solved is that it'll act as a baffle when administering oxalic vapour with the board in, the flexibility of the rubber allowing room for the power cable.
The rubber flap will also allow the board to be put say halfway in, if it's a particularly cold and stormy winter.

I've just made an additional floor and about to treat the wood, I'll see if I have any matt black or other dark paint to coat the inside below the OMF. That should also help stop light being reflected up into the brood box.



On a similar note, I think the bees get much less agitated when taking the cover off since I added transparent cover boards. I still keep the insulated covers on top of those and under the roof.
What I think is happening is that when the insulated board comes off first, the bees see the light, but they don't get any of the cooling or draft that comes from the hive being opened.
After a few seconds (a long time for a bee) when the transparent cover is lifted, they're not then getting any change in the light level, just an air flow/temperature change, it's not the normal transition from "hive closed" to "hive open", so doesn't provoke an as strong as normal instinctive response.
 
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suggesting a slightly different ventilation pattern for peak flow v winter

The comparison was whether the bees were able, or not, to propolise the gaps.

Get real. The bees will propolise the crownboard to the box because they do not want, or need, matchsticks making small gaps under their ceiling. Either take off the honey uncapped or wait for the bees to cap it. Simple.

Due to being given incorrect advice as a beginner in my first year about allowing air to circulate through the 'feeder' board holes in the cover board and out through the roof vents, I thought it wise to cover the board holes with varroa mesh to keep the bees out of the roof space but allow the air to flow.
They propolised the mesh and sealed the cover board. Says it all to me. :)
 

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