oxalic vaporiser in poly hive?

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Grif

New Bee
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I've just started looking into getting a vaporiser, but wondered if there might be a problem using these in a poly hive? Anybody recommend particular vaporisers that have been successfully used in poly hives without the heated parts doing damage to the polystyrene?
 
I've just started looking into getting a vaporiser, but wondered if there might be a problem using these in a poly hive? Anybody recommend particular vaporisers that have been successfully used in poly hives without the heated parts doing damage to the polystyrene?

I haven't had any damage to my polys using a vapouriser from eBay. I close the entrance. Then slide a roofing slate under the OMF for it to rest on....from the back and wrap a towel around the base to keep the vapour in.... some people on the forum have made special boxes.
 
I've just started looking into getting a vaporiser, but wondered if there might be a problem using these in a poly hive? Anybody recommend particular vaporisers that have been successfully used in poly hives without the heated parts doing damage to the polystyrene?

There is no problem using it under the mesh floor - don't try and do it through the entrance like you would a timber hive.

I made a part metal part timber tray that slides in on the slots intended for the inspection board - it has a dropped centre section which the vaporiser sits in that is about 30mm below the mesh floor. The hives it has been used on are Paynes 14 x 12 Polys and it works well. Don't have a photo to hand as it's out on loan at present but Erichalfbee has a similar arrangement and she will probably help ...?

I've used both a Varrox and a redwood style home made one - both work fine - so I would imagine any of the slide in type (there's one for £30 in Thornes sale at present - probably not heavy duty but looks passable for the money) should work OK.
 
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There is no problem using it under the mesh floor - don't try and do it through the entrance like you would a timber hive.

I made a part metal part timber tray that slides in on the slots intended for the inspection board - it has a dropped centre section which the vaporiser sits in that is about 30mm below the mesh floor. The hives it has been used on are Paynes 14 x 12 Polys and it works well. Don't have a photo to hand as it's out on loan at present but Erichalfbee has a similar arrangement and she will probably help ...?

I've used both a Varrox and a redwood style home made one - both work fine - so I would imagine any of the slide in type (there's one for £30 in Thornes sale at present - probably not heavy duty but looks passable for the money) should work OK.

I'll get a picture this afternoon
 
I use the under tray method. I have to wonder how much gets to the bees as I always end up with a lot of powder on the tray and the mesh.

Maybe re condenses before it gets through the mesh?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I use the under tray method. I have to wonder how much gets to the bees as I always end up with a lot of powder on the tray and the mesh.

Maybe re condenses before it gets through the mesh?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I noticed the same thing last week but it must have worked - over 1000 mites dropped in the first 24 hours!

CVB
 
I do it through the entrance and rest it on the wire mesh floor.

What was the question? :sunning:


( I must be lucky or simple)
 
I've just started looking into getting a vaporiser, but wondered if there might be a problem using these in a poly hive? Anybody recommend particular vaporisers that have been successfully used in poly hives without the heated parts doing damage to the polystyrene?

If you're handy, you can knock together an underfloor entrance for your poly.
Sublimating is then simple.

.
 
I use the under tray method. I have to wonder how much gets to the bees as I always end up with a lot of powder on the tray and the mesh.

Maybe re condenses before it gets through the mesh?

When I vape I put a hive tool under one corner of the crown board till I see a wisp of vapour. That way I know it's got to the top. The bees usually let you know but not always so this is handy.......make sure you have your respirator on :D


I'll get a picture this afternoon

The first picture is Pargyle's set up that I have under one hive. (It sits on a Paynes floor but is actually a Swienty box)
You can slide the normal Paynes inspection tray in its normal position very close to the floor.
The lower shelf lets you have a tray a greater distance below. As the stand's floor is slatted it is difficult to get a seal to vape so the only addition I will make when it comes out of service is to put a shelf along the sides and front as in the other picture of my own floors.
 

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When I vape I put a hive tool under one corner of the crown board till I see a wisp of vapour. That way I know it's got to the top. The bees usually let you know but not always so this is handy.......make sure you have your respirator on :D

DO you know what level of respirator is required for this type of gas?
 
DO you know what level of respirator is required for this type of gas?

IT is first gas, but when cooling it forms fine dust, like needles. Like wood or cigaret makes smoke and then it condensates as tar.

Hive interior is covered oxalic acid dust.

With oxalic water solution sprayed acid makes needle dust too when water dries up in air. IT means that raw oxalic acid goes onto your nose and lung epithelium, and onto eyes. I have done that, but not again.
 
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I use a solder mat on a piece of steel with vaporiser secured with a couple of wires, not had a problem.
I have a lot of poly nucs that I need to vape, any ideas?
S
 
I have a mix of poly and home made wooden nucs, none of which have removable base and all have too small an entrance to admit the vapouriser. I made a nuc sized wooden eke with a ply roof and large enough hole in one side for the vaporiser. I just strap this on top of the nuc and off I go. Used to turn the nuc upside down for the vaping, bees did not seem to mind for the few minutes. Now I no longer bother with that and as long as I keep the eke in position for 10 mins after it all seems to work fine. I too use a bit of asbestos mat on the bottom of the vape
 
I use a varrox on my Paynes polys 14x12s i just swing out entrance reducer one side put a rolled up sheet to block enterance and slide varrox in never had a problem with it melting the poly saves all that fafing placing it on boards underneath the mesh .
 
I use a varrox on my Paynes polys 14x12s i just swing out entrance reducer one side put a rolled up sheet to block enterance and slide varrox in never had a problem with it melting the poly saves all that fafing placing it on boards underneath the mesh .



I guess if you leave it in for ten mins it's cool enough to not melt the poly on the way out ?
 
I have a mix of poly and home made wooden nucs, none of which have removable base and all have too small an entrance to admit the vapouriser. I made a nuc sized wooden eke with a ply roof and large enough hole in one side for the vaporiser. I just strap this on top of the nuc and off I go. Used to turn the nuc upside down for the vaping, bees did not seem to mind for the few minutes. Now I no longer bother with that and as long as I keep the eke in position for 10 mins after it all seems to work fine. I too use a bit of asbestos mat on the bottom of the vape

Thanks, sounds like a good solution. I will make a few up and give it a try.
S
 

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