One size box

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Yes they are heavy (and I'm strong)

I remember me telling my consultant that at my last back assessment - and he's a beekeeper as well

 

[Ian123]

I think we are all guilty of trying to reinvent the wheel sometimes ... if it works - don't fix it.

1. Brood boxes (even standard nationals (let alone 14 x 12's) are very heavy when filled with honey - liftng them off in order to inspect the brood box is a recipe for beekeepers back..
2. Adding supers as they are required you are more likely to get full frames filled and capped than you will with brood frames
3. You need a big extractor to spin out sensible numbers of brood frames

If it was a good idea do you not think that everyone would be using it ? If you want to go the single box route and you are not built like the incredible hulk you probably need to look at a smaller box like a Warre or Rose system employ.

Langstroth mediums are used commonly in the states

 

[fian]

The question is if you want to be a frame mover or a body mover?
For a frame mover, the size of the frame does not matter it can be as deep as you consider or need.
On the other hand, for a body mover, the size must be the same in rears and in the breeding nest (Rose method).

 

[SWEET]

I remember me telling my consultant that at my last back assessment - and he's a beekeeper as well

10 years ago I ended up in a wheelchair (from sport and muscular back damage (national level athlete) - I tend to use my arms/shoulders and lock core to move weight around (never ever twist) and do lots of core exercise each day so take risks very seriously.

When I say strong, moving 50kg boxes with arms alone is fine, think the broods are around 20kg in poly and I weigh 100kg (not fat)

Last time my back failed it was picking up a sock.

As fian says, you can always just move each frame into an empty box and reduce the weigh by moving half or whatever works for you.

 

[user 11159]

you could mod a paynes poly nuc ..to take 8 frames and use just brood or supers...

 

[plain_hunt]

He's not sure his extractor will do standard brood frames, what are the chances it will do 14x12's?

Edit - just reread the thread. If it does brood frames tangentially it certainly won't do 14x12's!

It will if it has the mesh inserts to put in it. Mine does.

 

[Newbeeneil]

It will if it has the mesh inserts to put in it. Mine does.

If an extractor needs a cage to extract standard brood frames tangentially it’s unlikely to be able to do 14x12’s as well.

 

[plain_hunt]

If an extractor needs a cage to extract standard brood frames tangentially it’s unlikely to be able to do 14x12’s as well.

Mine does. I‘ve just checked it to make sure.

 

[Murox]

Mine does. I‘ve just checked it to make sure.

Which extractor is it please?

 

[Sutty]

If an extractor needs a cage to extract standard brood frames tangentially it’s unlikely to be able to do 14x12’s as well.

Mine won't fit them - konegin 9 frame radial with tangential screens

 

[blackcloud]

Konigin 12f takes them radial and tangent

 

[Newbeeneil]

Konigin 12f takes them radial and tangent

Yes, that’s what I have but it’s bigger in diameter than the 9 frame and hence a bugger to get through doors if you move it between extractions.

 

[blackcloud]

I've reversed the bolts on one back leg and put these on instead of nuts .The leg can be swiftly reversed inwards to get through doors and while in storage and transit.They're on the hatches and honey bucket gates now too.

 

[Newbeeneil]

View attachment 35287
I've reversed the bolts on one back leg and put these on instead of nuts .The leg can be swiftly reversed inwards to get through doors and while in storage and transit.They're on the hatches and honey bucket gates now too.

Neat and idea!

 

[Sutty]

View attachment 35287
I've reversed the bolts on one back leg and put these on instead of nuts .The leg can be swiftly reversed inwards to get through doors and while in storage and transit.They're on the hatches and honey bucket gates now too.

Do you have a source for these please?

 

[Ely]

Hi All what’s the general consensus, I’m presently using nation brood box’s and supers, would there be any benefit to just using one or the other. All brood or all supers.

I use one size frames DN4. After switching, I found things a lot easier with hive manipulation not having to mess around with two different sizes when swapping frames around. They get heavy though when full of honey. Not a problem if you feel strong enough. It removes the idea of 'oh they are supers and those are brood boxes'. You have your brood nest and honey storage above and both can vary in size. Pete Little used to have one size of box. A great commercial beekeeper. One size frame also best if you ever intend to not use an excluder as you don't need to worry about the queen laying in smaller frames intended for honey.

 

[thorn]

I agree Philip, obviously Tim Rowe is famous for reinventing a single box just slightly bigger than a standard super when surely the cheapest idea would have been to use supers.
I keep promising I'll have a go at the Rose system one day using supers but never seem to get around to it!

Rose boxes are a far better size than shallows both for brood and for honey. If I could get poly rose boxes I'd use them as supers on all my hives.

 

[blackcloud]

Do you have a source for these please?

High type

 

[Newbeeneil]

Rose boxes are a far better size than shallows both for brood and for honey.

What is your reason for describing the Rose box far better than shallows?

 

[user 6228]

if its your back that the reason , the issue is not just the weight but also the width. .Beekeeping is bad for the back because the centre of gravity of the box is such a distance from to your spine when lifting. A box that had fewer frames of the same size or even bigger frames might be better i.e. have 6 jumbo frames not 12 std. That way if you pick it up the right way there is less leverage.
Its the same problem as the old 19" PC CRT monitors, which I managed to hurt myself with.