More aggressive bees?

[TheDragons]

I have one hive (National on brood and a half) in the garden, second year of beekeeping. The problem is I can't get within 15m of the front without being seen off by the guard bees. They dive straight in and sting me usually on the head/face, not nice! I was expecting them to be harder work this year but I can't go down the garden without being attacked. I've children and there's a riding school 50m away so potentially worse problems.
But are they aggressive or have I just got unrealistic expectations of what bees are like - is this normal?!
So what can I do?
I can move the hive 100m down the garden (backs onto cattle fields) away from the horses and face them away from the horses too. (How do I overcome the 3 mile/3 foot problem?)
I can requeen (I have NO idea how to do this/where to get a queen!)
Although I know the farmer I don't want to lose the pollinators from my garden so don't want to move them out.
If they attack the children/riding school I'll have to get rid of them althogether which I really don't want to do, I need some help to solve this problem before it gets to that stage!

 

[MuswellMetro]

I have one hive (National on brood and a half) in the garden, second year of beekeeping. The problem is I can't get within 15m of the front without being seen off by the guard bees. They dive straight in and sting me usually on the head/face, not nice! I was expecting them to be harder work this year but I can't go down the garden without being attacked. I've children and there's a riding school 50m away so potentially worse problems.
But are they aggressive or have I just got unrealistic expectations of what bees are like - is this normal?!
So what can I do?
I can move the hive 100m down the garden (backs onto cattle fields) away from the horses and face them away from the horses too. (How do I overcome the 3 mile/3 foot problem?)
I can requeen (I have NO idea how to do this/where to get a queen!)
Although I know the farmer I don't want to lose the pollinators from my garden so don't want to move them out.
If they attack the children/riding school I'll have to get rid of them althogether which I really don't want to do, I need some help to solve this problem before it gets to that stage!

when did the become aggressive, ? this year or have they aways been like that.

 

[Bee-Key-Pur]

(How do I overcome the 3 mile/3 foot problem?)

Move them the three miles, then a week or two later move them back to your new spot...

 

[Poly Hive]

Aggressive colonies can suddenly show their true colors when they get to a certain strength, and they feel as I thihk of it "confident" to be themselves. Can come as a bit of a shock.

In this instance you have a real issue, kids and neighbors to be taken into consideration.

Given you don't have the skill set yet to deal with re-queening or the manipulaions to do so, nor have you hte space to do this in without creating the very havoc you want to avoid I will make this suggestion to you.

Offer the bees for sale on the honest basis you are unable to cope with them and they are for you a liability. Ask a fair price and you will move them.

Next move is to buy from a reputable source the quietest bees you can find and start over. Many on here will offer suggestions as to where from: I have no doubt.

Lastly you may wish to reconsider the wisdom of having bees on your property given the constraints you are now discovering. That is of course your decision only.

Good luck

PH

 

[Monsieur Abeille]

I'd suggest learning how to re-queen. There will be good 2011 queens available. Its an essential part of beekeeping and this sounds like an ideal opportunity to learn.

You could replace them with gentle stock, but there is no guarantee that they will remain so.

 

[Poly Hive]

The problem with doing a re-queen is the disturbance and the consequential anti social activity which is after all what the OP is wanting to avoid.

PH

 

[TheDragons]

They have only become like this in the last month, last year I could sit next to the hive with no problems.
The garden is 2 acres so should be big enough from them, it's long and thin though so they will always be fairly near activity (although they can easily face the fields)
I already avoid inspecting when there is activity in the stables (weekends and after school hours) so I could time manipulations to suit.

So move them first for a couple of weeks, then bring them back, resite and requeen?

 

[Poly Hive]

Re-queen whilst off site for safety.

PH

 

[Chris Luck]

They have only become like this in the last month

That's what would interest me, what's changed?

Chris

 

[Poly Hive]

My guess is they sup'd in the autumn and are now gaining strength.

PH

 

[Black Comb]

I have one that's done exactly the same. Again near horses/stables. Fortunately I have another site to move it to, which I did tonight.
Why I don't (and probably never will) know.

 

[Skyhook]

I can requeen (I have NO idea how to do this/where to get a queen!)

As for the second part- click on 'beekeeping directory' at the top of the page. A number of suppliers listed on there. I have read very good reports on here of the queens from superb ees or K emble bee supplies, not to say there's anything wrong with the others.

 

[Chris Luck]

I have a colony that is very, very aggressive. Similar situation, anywhere remotely near the hive and bees attack in numbers. When removing the CB they come out like a black cloud AND sting en masse, not just fly around humming.

What is interesting to me is that the colony swarms and the issue, (which contains the old queen) isn't as aggressive when in a new position, BUT the existing colony that raises a new queen still on the original site remains very, very aggressive. When I get round to it I'll move the hive or perhaps cut and rearrange the trees and bushes that surround it and see what happens.

Probably not much help to the OP but it may be worth moving the hive a couple of feet and changing its orientation - who knows?

Chris

 

[richardbees]

Dragons

If they attack the children/riding school I'll have to get rid of them

...and probably change your name and move house!!

Assuming you've got omf you can ameliorate the 3 miles/ft problem by sealing the entrance at night after flying, carefully move the hive after strapping together to the bottom of your huge garden and stuff the entrance with grass after unsealing.. it's always worked for me.

Check after a day or so that they've unblocked the entrance then leave them until the middle of an active flying day - and move the hive 10ft sideways. Leave for an an hour and then look for the Q.

 

[Birds&Bees]

It is always possible that the queen is now using the semen for a differnent mating and that the drone was from a more aggressive stock.
If you contact your local beekeeping group someone may be able to help with the re-queening etc.

 

[susbees]

It is always possible that the queen is now using the semen for a differnent mating and that the drone was from a more aggressive stock.
If you contact your local beekeeping group someone may be able to help with the re-queening etc.

That is completely wrong I'm afraid. Semen from drones mixes and migrates to the spermatheca and there are representatives of all drone "families" present at all times in a colony.

I'd say PH is right - supersedure last autumn. However, do you know you have a queen and adequate stores in the hive?

Move them 3+ miles away and get help to requeen from your BKA with a LOCAL gentle queen: not an imported one like some of the suggested sources supply or you'll likely be back where you started in a year of two with bad bees. Not definite but likely.

 

[MuswellMetro]

well in a similar situation on a children's farm, i just killed the hive with petrol and started again with a nuc made of two frames of bees and a new queen, another 24hrs or distrubance moving them could have been a disaster...quick ,effective and no collateral damage

 

[richardbees]

MM, I'd normally agree but in this case he can move them 100 yards away to isolate from contact, and has a chance of successful reQ

 

[Annie1]

I am new to all this too - had bees for two and a bit years now. They began all sweetness and light, then last year were so aggressive they stung and followed me down the garden etc etc. I thought it was my fault for not being very competent,until an experienced beekeeper looked at the hive with me and he too was swearing. Then late last year they swarmed, and now they are sweetness and light and my confidence has been restored. Don't be put off, but beekeeping is more of a joy with nice bees. I would be concerned personally that they may sting children on horses though....

 

[justme]

I am new to all this too - had bees for two and a bit years now. They began all sweetness and light, then last year were so aggressive they stung and followed me down the garden etc etc. I thought it was my fault for not being very competent,until an experienced beekeeper looked at the hive with me and he too was swearing. Then late last year they swarmed, and now they are sweetness and light and my confidence has been restored. Don't be put off, but beekeeping is more of a joy with nice bees. I would be concerned personally that they may sting children on horses though....

or/and the horses! then all hell'd be let loose, especially if a kid or beginner was on it at the time.