Mini nuc??

[Hawklord]

I'll be trying my hand at queen rearing this year and wondered if there was any difference between introducing a queen cell or a virgin into a mini nuc? Also if using the stocked nuc to get a number of queens mated, does it become over populated with the 2nd and 3rd queens?

 

[dn170221]

Not sure on the virgin v cell issue, other than the fact there may be a chance of them rejecting a queen but less so with a cell. As far as I know the guys in our assoc only deal with cells in apideas.

My understanding is that it is one queen per apidea. Usual rules apply if there are more, they MAY co-exist in the same hive but would be more likely to trigger a swarm or a fight!!

 

[Hawklord]

Sorry I didn-t make that clear. I didn't mean more than 1 queen at a time. If first queen comes into lay, is removed, and then another virgin/queen cell is introduced, etc, then the nuc would become over populated.

 

[masterBK]

In most seasons it is possible to get 3 queens mated per mininuc (I use Apideas). I like to wait til her brood is capped to see the type and pattern before removing the queen in the evening and introducing a Q cell the next day (or at same time if queen cell protected). Queens get mated and start to lay very quickly in Apideas typically 10 - 15 days after emergence (queen cell introduced two days before emergence) so assume one queen per month . So 3 queens possible starting process in May and finishing in late July. Queen rearing was so successfull last year that I stopped rearing after two queens produced per Apidea (as by then I had all the queens I wanted for myself and my friends) but in some years many "grafts" are not accepted, queens don't come back from orientation and mating flights and those that do may be poorly mated and become drone layers and then there is always a few abscondings from mininucs ie assume an overall 50% success rate with mininucs and be pleased if you better it

 

[Hawklord]

Thanks MasterBK

 

[Apple]

In most seasons it is possible to get 3 queens mated per mininuc (I use Apideas). I like to wait til her brood is capped to see the type and pattern before removing the queen in the evening and introducing a Q cell the next day (or at same time if queen cell protected). Queens get mated and start to lay very quickly in Apideas typically 10 - 15 days after emergence (queen cell introduced two days before emergence) so assume one queen per month . So 3 queens possible starting process in May and finishing in late July. Queen rearing was so successfull last year that I stopped rearing after two queens produced per Apidea (as by then I had all the queens I wanted for myself and my friends) but in some years many "grafts" are not accepted, queens don't come back from orientation and mating flights and those that do may be poorly mated and become drone layers and then there is always a few abscondings from mininucs ie assume an overall 50% success rate with mininucs and be pleased if you better it

Much the same success here, seems to be a fail rate of 20% at each "stage"

I have found that the primary load of fresh bees into the Apidea needs to get established ( leave in dark cool place shut in for 3 days before letting fly at mating site and let them fly for four days, taking stock from different colonies and even different apiaries ( if hygiene / disease security not an issue)
Some manage to get 4 queens through, I have one overwintering in a mating nuc by adding boxes!

Would be interested to hear what other beebreeders are doing differently.



James

 

[Hivemaker.]

Would be interested to hear what other beebreeders are doing differently.

I like to keep the mini nucs stocked all year round, easier if they are kept complete with brood, ie, just like a full size hive, but in miniature, only housing a large cupful of bees, and a backup of available/spare brood through the active season.

 

[Apple]

I like to keep the mini nucs stocked all year round, easier if they are kept complete with brood, ie, just like a full size hive, but in miniature, only housing a large cupful of bees, and a backup of available/spare brood through the active season.

Do you overwinter with a queen in the mini nuc?


James

 

[Hivemaker.]

Do you overwinter with a queen in the mini nuc?
James

Yes i do, and when she gets removed in spring the nuc gets split into two or three, with brood, depending on strength, and a ripe queen cell given to each from the incubator.

 

[clv101]

I currently have three queens in mini nucs. Surplus to requirements last year so a bit of an experiment. Nucs still full last weekend, with some bees flying. Keeping them well fed with fondant and waiting for spring!

 

[Bosleeu]

Yes i do, and when she gets removed in spring the nuc gets split into two or three, with brood, depending on strength, and a ripe queen cell given to each from the incubator.

I currently have three queens in mini nucs. Surplus to requirements last year so a bit of an experiment. Nucs still full last weekend, with some bees flying. Keeping them well fed with fondant and waiting for spring!

I would really like to do this next winter. Would you mind telling me which nucs you use, and any other tips, like how you feed? Some mini-nucs are very tiny, and others like Kielers quite a bit bigger.

If there are other threads, I have been unable to find them, possibly due to operator error.

I currently winter queens in 6 frame nucs. Also have two Mini-hive Plusses, I use two boxes with those (so 12 frames about half the size of a Standard National frame). These seem to really take off each Spring.

Any other tips greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

 

[Apple]

I currently winter queens in 6 frame nucs. Also have two Mini-hive Plusses, I use two boxes with those (so 12 frames about half the size of a Standard National frame). These seem to really take off each Spring.

6 full sized frames in a nuc box is a good way to overwinter a small colony, generally these take of rapidly in the Spring if fed.

As for mini nucs or mating nucs.
The Swi Bi poly ones these seem to be too small with 3/4 tiny frames
Kielers seem to be better as have 4 larger frames
My experiment is with one of the Abelo double mating nucs, with the center board removed and 8 frames fitted, possibly nearer 2 brood frames in area.

Some time back I saw a method whereby four mini sized nucs were placed on top of a strong colony so as to each have an entrance and benefit from the heat of the colony below. A well insulated roof fitted over the lot.
To manufacture such would require woodworking skills far beyond my own.

Did you know Romans used to keep special beekeeping slaves?


James

 

[Michael Palmer]

Yes i do, and when she gets removed in spring the nuc gets split into two or three, with brood, depending on strength, and a ripe queen cell given to each from the incubator.

Same here, except I have to keep them stronger to get through my cold Vermont winter. -25˚F this morning. During the active queen mating season each nuc has 4 mini-combs, with 4 nucs in each body. After the queen rearing season, I unite the 2 nucs on each side of the body into one, and add 10 mini-combs on top of each. Builds a beautiful little colony that winters well and explodes with the first spring flows.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA3yiNoAh4o

 

[Bosleeu]

Same here, except I have to keep them stronger to get through my cold Vermont winter. -25F this morning. During the active queen mating season each nuc has 4 mini-combs, with 4 nucs in each body. After the queen rearing season, I unite the 2 nucs on each side of the body into one, and add 10 mini-combs on top of each. Builds a beautiful little colony that winters well and explodes with the first spring flows.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA3yiNoAh4o

Nice video thanks. I like the little frames.

 

[TryingToLetThemBee]

Remind me Mike; do you have SHB in VT? I'd have thought there's a beetle in Italy with a view on all this...