Mildew/mould

[Rob H]

I gave ordinary soft Wickes insulation a coat of Ronseal woodstain and it seemed to give a harder outside without melting the insulation. I think that the golden rule with coating polystyrene is keep clear of solvents hence woodstain fits the bill

Yes thanks, id defo agree with the solvent issue but thought water based might not cover well, maybe have to try a couple of products and see which adheres and covers the best. Most people seem to recommend masonry paint for poly hive although Laurence at BMH uses spray tins successfully, Seems like everything in beekeeping there's no one right way to do most things.

 

[JamezF]

I reckon you could do a double layer of 25mm PIR for the side walls which would enable you to create a landing for the frame lugs, UPVC strip for the frame lugs to sit on, the end walls single 25mm PIR and all ply lined Hand holds in the double skinned side walls would be formed from small plastic boxes recessed into the outer skin. Top bee space, the top edge of the box protected again with UPVC strip and a clear crownboard without the need for a rim. Bottom edge again protected with UPVC .. timber floor of course. Deep PIR roof with 50mm top.

Could use 25mm doubled up for the sides and 50mm for the front and back so the insulation is the same thickness all the way around. Using plastic boxes inserted into the outer skin is a nice idea for handles, though they'd need to be a form of plastic that is UV stable.

I'm useless with Sketch up

I used to use Sketchup a lot, but started to find it a little limiting for things I wanted to do and moved on to FreeCAD which is much more powerful but even harder to get to grips with. It does allow you to do some really nice stuff like specify constraints between components of a design (for example "these two points must be <this> distance apart", or "these two lines must meet at <this> angle" which can be very helpful with complex parts.

James

 

[JamezF]

Why would you need to ply line it? The bees can't get at the poly as its covered in the river foil.

My thoughts are hygiene, easier to scrape off brace comb and suchlike, less vulnerable to the surface being damaged by a hive tool.

James

 

[Rob H]

My thoughts are hygiene, easier to scrape off brace comb and suchlike, less vulnerable to the surface being damaged by a hive tool.

James

Makes total sense thanks and using relatively thin ply would add almost nothing to the weight

 

[Garry R]

Yes. For all the great properties of Kingspan and Celotex one has to remember that they are not designed primarily to be structural. The ease with which it can be cut also means that it can be easily damaged accidentally by a sharp tool etc. The silver foil is not a protection just an add on for reflecting heat. Hence the ply protection.

 

[user 20297]

Yes thanks, id defo agree with the solvent issue but thought water based might not cover well, maybe have to try a couple of products and see which adheres and covers the best. Most people seem to recommend masonry paint for poly hive although Laurence at BMH uses spray tins successfully, Seems like everything in beekeeping there's no one right way to do most things.

This is water-based, but you wouldn't think so when it's properly dry. It goes straight over PIR, poly and aluminium tape without primer. I use a small roller for emulsion paint. It takes several thin coats if you want to avoid a wrinkly finish like happened on one of my hive covers. The black or grey colour doesn't really appeal to me, but it helps the hive keep a low profile. Any kind of paint or colour will go over it if you fancy something more cheery, but as a paint designed for sealing flat roofs of any material it is a very effective protector for plastic hives. Overpainting can be done without any preparation.

Incidentally, with PIR I stick patches of aluminium tape over any cuts, and serious dents, whilst not really detrimental to performance, can be easily filled with polyester wood or car bodyfiler.

https://www.thompsonsweatherproofing.co.uk/roofing/10-year-roof-seal/

 

[pargyle]

Why would you need to ply line it? The bees can't get at the poly as its covered in the river foil. Thanks

If the foil gets nicked at all the bees will burrow into it .. I'm only talking about 3 ply...

 

[drex]

That is my experience too, hence any PIR in contact with my bees has a thin ply cover ( 3 ply if it is to hand, otherwise whatever is laying about

 

[Newbeeneil]

If you want to ply line the box why not consider this?
https://insulationgo.co.uk/26mm-xtr...-plywood-insulation-rigid-vcl-decking-td4000/

 

[Newbeeneil]

If the foil gets nicked at all the bees will burrow into it .. I'm only talking about 3 ply...

I made some 3 frame nucs to over winter queens out of 5.5 mm ply covered in 50mm PIR which worked well until the local tits decided to take an interest!

 

[JamezF]

I made some 3 frame nucs to over winter queens out of 5.5 mm ply covered in 50mm PIR which worked well until the local tits decided to take an interest!

I wonder if that's because they were shiny?

James

 

[Newbeeneil]

I wonder if that's because they were shiny?

James

I think that’s was the consensus at the time.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I wonder if that's because they were shiny?

just shows that race memory carries on long after the demise of doorstep deliveries of milk with foil bottle caps. I remember, whilst helping my father on his rounds, the vast range of different methods to stop bluetits from attacking milk bottles, pieces of slate left for us to cover the bottles, egg cups to invert over them, if I recall there was also a certain deodorant whose bottle cap was the perfect size (but then you had to admit to the world you were a soft kind who had to spray underarms), and of course, for those with money - you could buy made for purpose milk bottle protectors

 

[blackcloud]

Worst milk bottle pests were us kids raking off 'ice cream' on frosty mornings.