but they’re still extra plastic in the hive……You can even buy Hoffman converters which fit on the side bars of DN/SN1 frames if you are unfortunate enough to come across any.
Whatever you do - resist the urge to go over to the dark side
Of course and I do... now! They were just added faff, especially when I have to deal with 15-20 supers at the time....You just take them off before you put them in the extractor. It seems so simple!
I wouldn’t bin it. Looks like a great frame to use in a swarm trap and a swarm would clean it up in no time…Hello,
I am delighted that both my hives look like they survived the winter, my first hive is looking very well indeed. The second hive was a rather week nuc late summer last year, it only had 3 busy frames so I'm pleased it made it through winter at all. However, I think all that extra space in the brood box created an ideal environment for mould at the extremities:
View attachment 35994
This is an empty frame that came in the nuc, the bees have never taken to it and looks like it's had a long life. I swapped it out today and put a nice clean foundation frame in its place. I think I have learned a lesson, try and fill or better insulate the side of a very small colony over winter but nonetheless I have a couple of newbie questions:
1) Can bees clean mould off frames as they expand into infected areas such as this frame?
2) When is a frame so far gone it's better to simply swap it out; saving the bees having to deal with it?
As this colony grows I'm sure they'll fill the space and mould shall become less of an issue but wondered if the bees are as bothered by mould in the hive as much as I am? Cheers, CP.
When I started it was mainly metal spacers. Whilst providing a good spacing for thicker combs and easy uncapping it took days for your fingers to recover from removing the f….ing thingsYou just take them off before you put them in the extractor. It seems so simple!
Plastic spacers are cheap and represent a small percentage of the plastic that most of us have in our lives.
Pity! It was an entertaining debate!@enrico and @jenkinsbrynmair
I have edited some and deleted some of your spat. This is the beginners section
Now please play nice.
You’ve both made your thoughts on spacers clear so give others a chance please.
Hoffmans
No, but those plastic spacers are a relic from the dark ages and an abomination
I have heard it argued (vigorously) that the plastic spacers give a slightly larger space between the combs which can encourage the bees to create more propolis - I haven't tested it, but tend to use spacers in supers and Hoffmans in brood boxes. Spacers are about 2mm wider than hoffs.Don't be put off by plastic ends. They have their uses for mixed frames and I use them often. There is NOTHING wrong with them if used properly.
They are wider, never had a problem with excessive propolis but i often replace normal plastic spacers in supers with super wide spacers. That gives loads more honey per frame. Good if you want wax because you can cut back to the frame and get loads of nice new wax with the cappingsI have heard it argued (vigorously) that the plastic spacers give a slightly larger space between the combs which can encourage the bees to create more propolis - I haven't tested it, but tend to use spacers in supers and Hoffmans in brood boxes. Spacers are about 2mm wider than hoffs.
If you are ever passing I will swap them for a good coffee and a piece of cakeOf course and I do... now! They were just added faff, especially when I have to deal with 15-20 supers at the time....
They are not being used anymore so I am happy to donate the 60 or so I have to anyone who wants them.
Vegemite!!! Now there is an abominationReading these posts, I'm glad when I go into the bee shop here there is only one option for frames....and Vegemite on the supermarket shelves.
Hello @jenkinsbrynmair , I missed your post until now in the sea of replies which I'm still reading through.yes, it seems that most have missed the OP's hive type as in his profile, obviously it depends whether he's using the 'proper' WBC inners or managing to fit a standard National brood box into the lifts. I struggle to envision someone wedging eleven Hoffmans into a WBC inner unless using a lump hammer to 'persuade' them in.
maybe @Chunky Plumpy could elucidate
maybe a picture of the spacer, as some can be fettled to ten or eleven frame spacings
Hi @Do224 , on reflection I have rescued the frame from the bin.I wouldn’t bin it. Looks like a great frame to use in a swarm trap and a swarm would clean it up in no time…
Thanks @jenkinsbrynmair , I think the frames plim after a time so it only gets tighter. I'll invest in or make a couple of dummy boards I think and then servicing the hive will be easier... and marginally quicker as well. Cheers, CP.Hoffmans are slightly narrower than plastic spacers so will often leave enough space at the end of ten frames for a dummy board, if the brood box measurments are 'generous' you might fit eleven frames in, but be aware once the bees start propolising you will run out of space.
Personally, I wouldn't be too keen on ramming loads of frames in your supers - with a WBC ten is ample, or even nine frames per box - using castellations to space them.
Take the wax out having removed the wedge at the top. Give the frames a dunk in some really hot water with washing soda in, rinse, dry then just slot the new wax in from the bottom between the bottom bars ( you might need to remove one) Renail and you’re good to go.nd how difficult will be to insert new foundation in such old frames?
Or shove the whole thing in a net bag in a solar melter. Once you have the wax off, give the bag a shake and all the brood cacoons fall into it. Take the empty frame out and put it back in the solar melter to finish off.Take the wax out having removed the wedge at the top. Give the frames a dunk in some really hot water with washing soda in, rinse, dry then just slot the new wax in from the bottom between the bottom bars ( you might need to remove one) Renail and you’re good to go.
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