Can Bees Clean Away Mould?

[Carl]

Sorry to jump in, but a lot here i am learning of. A friend uses these Hoffman convertors and loves them, they do not seem to have any disadvantages i read of here.

 

[plain_hunt]

You can even buy Hoffman converters which fit on the side bars of DN/SN1 frames if you are unfortunate enough to come across any.
Whatever you do - resist the urge to go over to the dark side

but they’re still extra plastic in the hive……

 

[jeff33]

You just take them off before you put them in the extractor. It seems so simple!

Of course and I do... now! They were just added faff, especially when I have to deal with 15-20 supers at the time....

They are not being used anymore so I am happy to donate the 60 or so I have to anyone who wants them.

 

[Do224]

Hello,

I am delighted that both my hives look like they survived the winter, my first hive is looking very well indeed. The second hive was a rather week nuc late summer last year, it only had 3 busy frames so I'm pleased it made it through winter at all. However, I think all that extra space in the brood box created an ideal environment for mould at the extremities:

View attachment 35994

This is an empty frame that came in the nuc, the bees have never taken to it and looks like it's had a long life. I swapped it out today and put a nice clean foundation frame in its place. I think I have learned a lesson, try and fill or better insulate the side of a very small colony over winter but nonetheless I have a couple of newbie questions:

1) Can bees clean mould off frames as they expand into infected areas such as this frame?
2) When is a frame so far gone it's better to simply swap it out; saving the bees having to deal with it?

As this colony grows I'm sure they'll fill the space and mould shall become less of an issue but wondered if the bees are as bothered by mould in the hive as much as I am? Cheers, CP.

I wouldn’t bin it. Looks like a great frame to use in a swarm trap and a swarm would clean it up in no time…

 

[Ian123]

You just take them off before you put them in the extractor. It seems so simple!

When I started it was mainly metal spacers. Whilst providing a good spacing for thicker combs and easy uncapping it took days for your fingers to recover from removing the f….ing things

 

[Erichalfbee]

@enrico and @jenkinsbrynmair
I have edited some and deleted some of your spat. This is the beginners section

Now please play nice.
You’ve both made your thoughts on spacers clear so give others a chance please.

 

[JamezF]

Plastic spacers are cheap and represent a small percentage of the plastic that most of us have in our lives.

They probably do, that's true. But whilst it's very much a personal thing, I do try not to make things worse than they already are.

James

 

[enrico]

@enrico and @jenkinsbrynmair
I have edited some and deleted some of your spat. This is the beginners section

Now please play nice.
You’ve both made your thoughts on spacers clear so give others a chance please.

Pity! It was an entertaining debate!

 

[OldFarm]

Hoffmans

No, but those plastic spacers are a relic from the dark ages and an abomination

Don't be put off by plastic ends. They have their uses for mixed frames and I use them often. There is NOTHING wrong with them if used properly.

I have heard it argued (vigorously) that the plastic spacers give a slightly larger space between the combs which can encourage the bees to create more propolis - I haven't tested it, but tend to use spacers in supers and Hoffmans in brood boxes. Spacers are about 2mm wider than hoffs.

 

[enrico]

I have heard it argued (vigorously) that the plastic spacers give a slightly larger space between the combs which can encourage the bees to create more propolis - I haven't tested it, but tend to use spacers in supers and Hoffmans in brood boxes. Spacers are about 2mm wider than hoffs.

They are wider, never had a problem with excessive propolis but i often replace normal plastic spacers in supers with super wide spacers. That gives loads more honey per frame. Good if you want wax because you can cut back to the frame and get loads of nice new wax with the cappings

 

[enrico]

Of course and I do... now! They were just added faff, especially when I have to deal with 15-20 supers at the time....

They are not being used anymore so I am happy to donate the 60 or so I have to anyone who wants them.

If you are ever passing I will swap them for a good coffee and a piece of cake

 

[John Twidle]

Reading these posts, I'm glad when I go into the bee shop here there is only one option for frames....and Vegemite on the supermarket shelves.

Vegemite!!! Now there is an abomination

 

[Chunky Plumpy]

yes, it seems that most have missed the OP's hive type as in his profile, obviously it depends whether he's using the 'proper' WBC inners or managing to fit a standard National brood box into the lifts. I struggle to envision someone wedging eleven Hoffmans into a WBC inner unless using a lump hammer to 'persuade' them in.
maybe @Chunky Plumpy could elucidate
maybe a picture of the spacer, as some can be fettled to ten or eleven frame spacings

Hello @jenkinsbrynmair , I missed your post until now in the sea of replies which I'm still reading through.

As a novice I assumed suppliers would bundle ‘matching components’. I bought two complete WBC kits with broad box, 3x supers and all the frames and gubbins that goes with them. These were two complete WBC kits from different suppliers and both came with Hoffman frames; super and brood frames.

I almost responded to the “normal” spacing comment myself but feared it would be taken negatively so didn’t. However I think it’s worth nothing that this is the beginners forum/thread and after one year I’ve learned from very helpful people on this site that there is no normal when it comes to bee keeping, no right or wrong (within limits of course) and many ways to achieve the desired outcomes. Based on my short experience it was only natural to assume WBC hives come with Hoffman frames as standard, in fact they do come as standard regardless of it being correct or not!! That in turn dictates what the ‘normal’ spacing is/WAS until suggested otherwise in this thread; I did wonder and complain why the fit was so tight with 11 frames!

Ironically I was making up a super and another 11x frames when I stopped for a brew so just popped back to the shed for a picture:I've not checked yet but will look up the 386mm measurement to find out what I actually have in the hive so I know what to order next time!! Cheers, CP.

P.S. It is very snug but no lump hammer required to fit the frames.

 

[Chunky Plumpy]

I wouldn’t bin it. Looks like a great frame to use in a swarm trap and a swarm would clean it up in no time…

Hi @Do224 , on reflection I have rescued the frame from the bin.

My original colony is doing so well I fear I shall struggle to avoid swarm control this year despite my best novice efforts at swarm prevention. Another brood frame with some drawn comb, after I remove the worse of the mould and guff, shall surely come in useful if I employ the 'nuc method'.

As a beginner I've not amassed 'old' frames or other handy spares to be able to attempt anything else. Cheers, CP.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Hoffmans are slightly narrower than plastic spacers so will often leave enough space at the end of ten frames for a dummy board, if the brood box measurments are 'generous' you might fit eleven frames in, but be aware once the bees start propolising you will run out of space.
Personally, I wouldn't be too keen on ramming loads of frames in your supers - with a WBC ten is ample, or even nine frames per box - using castellations to space them.

 

[Chunky Plumpy]

Hoffmans are slightly narrower than plastic spacers so will often leave enough space at the end of ten frames for a dummy board, if the brood box measurments are 'generous' you might fit eleven frames in, but be aware once the bees start propolising you will run out of space.
Personally, I wouldn't be too keen on ramming loads of frames in your supers - with a WBC ten is ample, or even nine frames per box - using castellations to space them.

Thanks @jenkinsbrynmair , I think the frames plim after a time so it only gets tighter. I'll invest in or make a couple of dummy boards I think and then servicing the hive will be easier... and marginally quicker as well. Cheers, CP.

 

[debbie.jane61]

Hi All,
I also have very moldy and black brood frames from a hive that failed over summer. I have decided to replace them all as I need them for a Bailey Comb exchange (under advise and guidance from a mentor!!) My question is : is it worth trying to save the frames? and how difficult will be to insert new foundation in such old frames? Im a complete novice and havent attempted anything like this before.

TIA

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

They look OK to me - years of work left in them.
But as far as reusing - easy - just clean all the wax/comb away and the new foundation will go in just as easy. Just put foundation in a load of 'recycled' shallows from last year's cut comb, and some the bees had made a mess of

 

[Erichalfbee]

nd how difficult will be to insert new foundation in such old frames?

Take the wax out having removed the wedge at the top. Give the frames a dunk in some really hot water with washing soda in, rinse, dry then just slot the new wax in from the bottom between the bottom bars ( you might need to remove one) Renail and you’re good to go.

 

[enrico]

Take the wax out having removed the wedge at the top. Give the frames a dunk in some really hot water with washing soda in, rinse, dry then just slot the new wax in from the bottom between the bottom bars ( you might need to remove one) Renail and you’re good to go.

Or shove the whole thing in a net bag in a solar melter. Once you have the wax off, give the bag a shake and all the brood cacoons fall into it. Take the empty frame out and put it back in the solar melter to finish off.