lost 2 out of 3

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Think it must have been an unanounced gathering around south Molton last week!! Was up there too but unfortunately didnt have time to call in to Quince. Last time I went there I was about 10 think that is possibly where love for it started.
 
Remember that the cold and damp comes from the ground.

Sorry but wrong on both counts.

Most of the moisture is generated while oxidising 20kg of carbohydrate, first to keep the colony warm and then when the brooding starts, so ventilation is paramount for keeping the hive free of damp. That ventilation is supplied very adequately by use of an OMF (with more food consumed, I am told) and no top ventilation at all.

There is nothing to rust on the bottom of a hive normally so the car example is a bit of a red herring as the ouside damp may reach the bottom of the hive but is unlikely to penetrate the hive, especially with adequate space under for clear sideways ventilation.

No such thing as cold being an entity; it is a matter of state where the heat has been removed, not 'cold added'. As stated previously heat rises (by convection), so ay heat lost to the grond must be by conduction -which will not occur if there is an insulant between. Air is a superb insulant.

Heat losses from a hive are simply a matter of conduction to the exterior (the surroundings) or by change of air (very necessary!) which needs to be controlled within reason (to prevent the dampness).

Hope this helps to explain the principles underlying the topic of hive insulation.

Regards, RAB
 
Remember that the cold and damp comes from the ground.

Sorry but wrong on both counts.

yeh ok if you say so.

So if I stand on my grass my bum gets as wet and cold as if I was sitting on it?

If you have an older car that really needs new plug leads etc etc and possibly doesnt start first turn of the key,,,, leave it on the road it will start better than if left on grass or gravel,,, why,, because the damp has come up from the ground and made the plug leads and other wiring damp...

Caravans stored in fields over the winter period fall apart a lot quicker than those that are stored on hard standing.
 
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Dry the plug leads off and spray with some wd 40.....hope this helps.
 
Of course it don't....or the rain falling from the sky......have you got a garage,as this may help....and keep a heater going.
 
Of course it don't....or the rain falling from the sky......have you got a garage,as this may help....and keep a heater going.

Well least somebody else realises that damp does come from the ground and that a concrete covered (garage) floor is better.
 
Sure you would have less starting problems with a diesel.
 
Following some spontaneous re-cycling (liberated from a bin!) I have decided to 'formailise' my top insulation for this year. Saw some 30mm thick polystyrene sheets by a bin in york, enough for 5 crown boards, 6mm ply and some battons cost £15. Now have double skinned poly-filled insulated crown boards for winter. Not sure how succesfull it will be but there is certainly a good trapped air volume. I think I will still bubble wrap fill the mini eke around the 1/4 block of fondant.

If the local Rowan trees are to be believed (and Skydragon's reading of them) then it will be a cold one !
 
When I was more of a begginer than I am now I worried so much about my bees dying in Winter. :svengo: I became almost obsessed with doing whatever I could to prevent this. I was very worried about them getting too cold

One of the more stupid thoughts was that I could put them in son's bedroom while he is away at university - he could sleep in the living room I thought. Family slapped me down on this mad idea of course.

One Autumn I decided to protect a colony that was smaller than the others with extra insulation in the roof. I also put them on a solid floor when it got very cold.

In the Spring the colony was very sickly and the hive was full of mould. Not enough ventillation. Now I still close up OMFs when it is very cold, but I never stop ventillation at the top of the hive, and all is OK.

The colonies that get overwintered in the poly hives always do better than the ones overwintered in wood. If you want serious insulation go for poly.

Although you don't want leaky hives that let in water or your hives sitting in puddles, the biggest risk is from poor air flow within the hive because most of the water in the hive comes from inside the hive.

I have put this in bold, because it is something that it has taken me a long time to understand - please don't think I am shouting.
 

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