"Kstar 11" style wax melter*
Quote VEG "Do you have any pics and can you explain how it works"
Look up this *equipment on Th2*nes website or in their catalogue p57 for a visual idea. Catering taps are available from fleabay for a few quid, thermostatically controlled,sealed element tea urns also on fleabay. The operating instructions for my type of equipment below which I downloaded from the web.
I would stress that my unit is great for moderately clean comb and capping wax ( better soaked for a couple of days in rainwater prior to processing). If recovering dirty wax you need to resort to using the unit as a traditional water bath and knock out the wax disc after it has cooled and set. Even then the advantage is that you can heat water in the unit to clean it( I add some washing soda )and drain off through the taps.
WAX MELTER (2 TAPS)
Thermostatically controlled Boiler - Heavy duty enamelled steel tank with plastic lid. Capacity - Will melt 15kgs of clean wax. Handles -Two insulated handles make it easy to lift while avoiding burns. Element -Under the base of the tank, out of contact with water and wax and protected from mechanical damage. Rating - 1800 W. Control Thermostat -calibrated from 30 C to boiling. Neon indicator included. Power supply - 220-240V AC. External Dimensions - 365mm diameter x 480mm high. Inner Dimensions - 350mm diameter x 290mm high. Taps - Two brass taps fitted, one for tapping off clean wax the other for draining water from the melter.
OPERATION
To melt clean beeswax or paraffin wax for making candles or polish.
1. Add cold, preferably soft water to the container to just below the level of the upper tap.
2. Switch on and turn up the thermostat to 85-90 C.
3. Add approximately 10 kgs of wax in block or pelleted form to the container and replace the lid.
4. Leave for half an hour or so and then top up with more wax. At this point stir the mixture with a wooden or plastic spoon to break up any larger blocks that may have come together in the melting process.
5. Leave for an hour stirring occasionally. All the wax should finally have melted within two hours. Pelleted wax will obviously melt a lot quicker than large blocks.
6. Once all the wax has melted leave it to settle for a further hour. (If insulation is applied to the melter times will be speeded up dramatically). You are now ready to tap off the clean wax.
7. Using a pair of thick gloves, as the tap will be hot, carefully open the upper tap and pour off the liquid wax. With care it is possible to pour the wax directly into candle moulds, thus eliminating the jug stage.
8. Once the wax ceases to run close the tap.
9. You can now continue the process and repeat as above or let the melter cool down completely.
10. When thoroughly cold you will find a solid disc of wax in the container floating on top of the water. (See warning 2 below) This will easily break away from the sides of the container and can be melted at a later date. If the water has become dirty and needs replacing, open the bottom tap and empty the container.
11. To clean the melter fill with tap water, turn thermostat to maximum and bring to the boil. When the water is cool enough the lower tap can be opened. As the water is drained off you will be able to wipe clean the sides and base of the melter.
DIRTY WAX
This system can also be used to clean dirty wax. Repeat as above and allow the melter to cool completely. Carefully remove the wax disc. All the debris in the wax will be on the underside of the disc/floating in the water. This can be easily scraped away and the disc re-melted. It may however not be possible to empty the melter by the lower tap due to debris in the water.
With patience it is possible to apply the same technique to comb or cappings. There are almost no solid impurities that are the same density as wax. Separation is achieved simply by keeping the wax liquid and still for a long time.
1. Ideally soak the old comb/cappings for days beforehand in rainwater or alternatively softened water. This saturates the cocoons and prevents them soaking in the wax as it melts. It also washes out any honey that may be left in the combs.
2. Place the comb/cappings in the water of the melter and set thermostat to 90 C. Once everything has melted turn off the thermostat and pile old blankets, sacks etc. on top of and around the melter.
3. After perhaps an hour, gently remove the insulation and the lid. With a small sieve e.g. a tea strainer remove any floating particles-there will be only a few. Replace the lid and insulation.
4. After several hours-the length of time will vary with the amount of wax and ambient temperature-remove the insulation and lid. With a ladle it should now be possible to gently remove the clean wax and pour into a clean container. You will see through the liquid wax as you approach the layer of settled debris on top of the water. Stop before you disturb the debris.
5. It may be possible to tap clean wax from the upper valve of the melter without resorting to using a ladle. This will however depend on the debris/cocoon present in the water. If there is too much this will displace the water so that when the tap is opened only dross and dirt will be seen.
WARNING
1. Never operate the melter with wax alone. Always use water as per the instructions.
o Never operate from cold if there is a solid disc of wax in the container. The water below the disc may generate steam and pressurise the vessel. Always remove or break up the wax disc first.
Always wear gloves when handling hot wax or opening the taps.
Never let the wax/water mixture boil.
