How to move hive 6 feet in winter

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Dicklinda

New Bee
Joined
May 24, 2019
Messages
6
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Location
Peebles
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
4
We want to rearrange our apiary and need to move 2 of our hives about 6 to 8 feet and change the direction they face by about 90 degrees. It is very cold here and has been below zero for the majority of January so wondered if we could move them in one stage as there have been virtually no bees flying for ages. Or do we need to move them perhaps 1 foot per week, which would be a lot more work as they are sitting on breeze blocks.
 
Move them when it is as cold as possible. If it's too cold for them to fly they don't have to reorientate.
 
Beekeeper's debate :) what about bees falling from the cluster?

I agree. I would move them on as warm a day as possible up to 8 degrees or so, but then keep the entrance closed for the move and the next 2 days. I would avoid disturbing the cluster if it's a sub 5 degree day personally.
 
I also agree but I wouldn't keep them sealed for two days.
You would seal them up of a matter of course but no need to do it for two days.
If you did it in the day time remove the foam or whatever that night.
Or the following morning. :)

Someone will come along and say to put some branches in front in a minute :icon_204-2:
 
Every winter I rearrange my apiary a bit. Doing it mid winter, when it’s cold, careful in one go, never an issue.
 
2C as I write. Nice sunny day.(It was -2C overnight)
Today:
Moved one full hive 30 meters.
Moved 1 mini nuc 10 meters.

No apparent issues.
 
You could use some of those thick cable synch wraps to secure the boxes together so that they don't break apart when you move them, and use a hand truck or hand dolly. But its going to be heavy.

If that's too heavy, and if you are worried about it you could bring extra flat (no sides) sheets of cut plywood to put between boxes to keep the cold out while you break them apart to preserve the heat flow. And then once moved hurry and get it back together (but remember to take out the cut sheets blocking flow between.) (I'm only suggesting this could minimize heat loss if its absolutely necessary and too heavy to move without separating the boxes.)

Over here in the US we call them hand trucks or dollies. (Not sure if you Brits call them the same thing.

If you have good neighbors, most people who have tools or work have a hand truck/dolly. You'd be surprised how many do. That might save you from having to buy one if you don't have one already.

I'd had to know stuff like this for my other farming enterprises.

Over here, a Michael Palmer trick is to put the nucs above another hive to share warmth.
 
Bumpy ride, a steep, slippery banking to man handle them up and some gaffer tape to seal up a few 'new entrances'. Didn't seem to worry the bees, a few came out to say hello. ;)
Beautiful location in a wooded, tributary valley, well worth the effort.
 
Get Dick to carefully move them?

What we don’t know is how they are organised. If a single deep box (hives will be getting a bit lighter by now) is easily moved with no disturbance to the cluster. Quietly removing the roof (should reveal a completely closed crown-board). Cover the crown-board to keep out light if it is a transparent thing. Arrange the receiving stand and quietly move the box/floor.

If cold, the bees should not be disturbed at all, if done gently. If warm (with potentially flying bees) only move the hive the usual one metre unless only moving it backwards (pick your time of day to avoid losing flying bees). Two metres, or more, might well lose any flying bees. There is a general rule of less than 3 feet or more than 3 miles (while bees are flying). It has been a well-used/proven rule for rather more than a century, so don’t beieve those that think they know better!

Turn the hives by increments at a later date. One or two part-turns should not lose bees and better done in the warmer part of the day so that bees settling on the side of the box do not get chilled.

If just moving them backwards, make the hive entry looks the same as it would normally (move away breeze blocks, etc from the old position).

One foot per week is a crazy idea! If sideways, that is not even a hive-width.

I expect that, in your location, you should not encounter problems. Just move the hive gently, keeping it level.

If you have more than one box or Dick would be challenged, I suggest you secure a couple of bars, on the top, with ratchet straps and move gently with a person on each side - it’s only eight feet, after all!
 
How easy is it to knock bees off the cluster?
how 'tightly clustered' do they actually get? a few weeks ago during that exceedingly cold snap we had I popped down to the Llety'r Deryn apiary for a quick check, new apiary and I hadn't realised how soggy the ground gets where the hives are - the stand had sunk and tilted quite a bit so I very gently raised it up to put a piece of rybble under the foot to right it, I could hear the busy buzzing in the hive before I touched it, but straight away, out they came to have a nose, then buggered off back inside once I'd finished.
 
how 'tightly clustered' do they actually get? a few weeks ago during that exceedingly cold snap we had I popped down to the Llety'r Deryn apiary for a quick check, new apiary and I hadn't realised how soggy the ground gets where the hives are - the stand had sunk and tilted quite a bit so I very gently raised it up to put a piece of rybble under the foot to right it, I could hear the busy buzzing in the hive before I touched it, but straight away, out they came to have a nose, then buggered off back inside once I'd finished.
I agree and the other thing that crossed my mind is that if you are trying to shake bees off a frame you have to be pretty robust in doing it or most of them just stay there.
 

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