Glue

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Joined
May 26, 2021
Messages
227
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61
Location
Salisbury
Hive Type
WBC
Number of Hives
5
This may seem a silly question, but are there any glues that should NOT be used in hives? I know that people like Thornes sell 'beehive glue' which I suspect is normal glue with a new label and a new price. I'm currently using EvoStik Polyurethane glue for some other stuff I'm doing and I wonder if it's suitable to use on hives? There's nothing on the label that implies insecticide or pesticides in it.
Has anyone else used it?
 
This may seem a silly question, but are there any glues that should NOT be used in hives? I know that people like Thornes sell 'beehive glue' which I suspect is normal glue with a new label and a new price. I'm currently using EvoStik Polyurethane glue for some other stuff I'm doing and I wonder if it's suitable to use on hives? There's nothing on the label that implies insecticide or pesticides in it.
Has anyone else used it?

I've used a generic foaming polyurethane glue for hive repairs and the bees haven't told me they don't like it. As well as wooden hives, I used it for gluing a polyhive back together after it snapped when a wooden box fell on it. I did tap bamboo skewers in for a bit of reinforcement, but that worked very nicely. It glues PIR board well too, when you don't have a single piece of the right size to insulate a crownboard.

Otherwise I tend to use weatherproof PVA.

James
 
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I’m a cheapskate but never had a problem with Soudal P45

I've used that and it did a perfectly fine job. I've come to the conclusion however that you do need to be in a position to use the entire contents relatively quickly. I don't know if it's true for all PU glues, but the ones I've used all seem to rely on moisture to set, be that deliberately introduced or from the atmosphere. As air replaces glue in the bottle when it is used, the glue seems to set inside. Thus far the only mitigation I've found is to store the glue "nozzle down".

James
 
When considering what bees will tolerate, I consider what bees choose when given the choice: fuel tanks, open concrete overpass and fish tanks.

They're not fussy.


 
Agree, it's a very good glue and my own preferred choice however, interestingly, in one of his videos Bob Binnie mentions that he's come to the decision that titebond II is actually better for hives. Off hand I can't remember his reasoning or the specific video.
Yes ... Titebond II is a very good glue. It does not go off when you leave the top off the bottle - neither Titebond 2 nor Titebond 3 are cheap adhesives and the only difference between 2 and 3 is the 'grab' time - 2 will allow a little more time for repositioning, but they both have the same adhesive properties. My main woodworking activitiy is woodturning and when I glue two pieces of wood together and then want them to stay together when spinning on the lathe at 1500 RPM + I want them to stay stuck together ! I've had a few near misses over the years with bits of timber leaving the lathe and heading for my head - it's an experience I try not to repeat !!

I would accept that the cost of Titebond might make it overkill for hive building - there are cheaper waterproof PVA glues available .. I've used D4 from Toolstation ... At £15 for 1 litre it's good value and like Titebond it does not go off in the bottle.

https://www.toolstation.com/d4-wood-glue/p61864
 
Agree, it's a very good glue and my own preferred choice however, interestingly, in one of his videos Bob Binnie mentions that he's come to the decision that titebond II is actually better for hives. Off hand I can't remember his reasoning or the specific video.
I've heard the same and not just for hives.
 
I've used that and it did a perfectly fine job. I've come to the conclusion however that you do need to be in a position to use the entire contents relatively quickly. I don't know if it's true for all PU glues, but the ones I've used all seem to rely on moisture to set, be that deliberately introduced or from the atmosphere. As air replaces glue in the bottle when it is used, the glue seems to set inside. Thus far the only mitigation I've found is to store the glue "nozzle down".

James
I agree james, I normally get through about 90% of a unit before it becomes unusable. I make the nozzle wider and warm it if it becomes a bit viscous.
 
I would accept that the cost of Titebond might make it overkill for hive building - there are cheaper waterproof PVA glues available .. I've used D4 from Toolstation ... At £15 for 1 litre it's good value and like Titebond it does not go off in the bottle.

https://www.toolstation.com/d4-wood-glue/p61864
Hmm I'm going to give the D4 a go. Titebond 2 is only water resistant (3 is waterproof) whereas D4 says its waterproof.
 

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