Experience using Hoffman Converter Clips

[Swarm]

Tom Bick used domed upholstery tacks on DN1 frames. IIRC, four per frame kept the frames perfectly stable.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I'm certain I read that Brother Adam, for a long time, used very wide headed tacks or drawing pins, one on each of a straight frame to give the required Hoffman spacing. Sounds simple but I can only imagine how large and red my poor thumb would be at the end of a day trying that. Probably very useful for hitching a home on a dark night though.

Many beekeepers used that method - upholstery tacks or hobnails

 

[Firefly]

Hoffman over the top spacers are a real pain IMO. Spacers over end lugs better providing they are a good close fit so that they do not slip off when manipulating. As said earlier, by having alternate wide and narrow ones one can remove the odd frame to induce the bees to extend the cells to accomodate more honey - more honey, less wax.

Isn't it funny how we're all different. I get on fine with the over the top ones. Plastic spacers over the lugs, on the other hand, are in my top three beekeeping "hates", along with Porter escapes and wired foundation!

It's not a very expensive mistake if you don't like them

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Isn't it funny how we're all different. I get on fine with the over the top ones. Plastic spacers over the lugs, on the other hand, are in my top three beekeeping "hates", along with Porter escapes and wired foundation!

It's not a very expensive mistake if you don't like them

I don't particularly like the over the top spacers and prefer the ones that you pin on to the side bars, not that I come across the need to use them very often (it was usually when some clown would bring in DN1 frames to the association apiary.)
I agree though that those spacers you put over the lugs are the devil's work and should be thrown into the same deep pit as shook swarming and porter escapes

 

[drex]

Well JBM I actually find them quite handy to slip on a SN 1 when putting the odd one up in the brood for the bees to build drone comb under

 

[Yogibear]

I don't particularly like the over the top spacers and prefer the ones that you pin on to the side bars, not that I come across the need to use them very often (it was usually when some clown would bring in DN1 frames to the association apiary.)
I agree though that those spacers you put over the lugs are the devil's work and should be thrown into the same deep pit as shook swarming and porter escapes

 

[Newbeeneil]

OK, this isn't quite the same but still relates to spacers. I've just bought some Poly hives for one of my clients and I normally use 10 frame castellations in the supers of my cedar hives but how do I achieve similar spacings in a poly hive?

 

[Angry_Mob]

I was considering changing over from SN4 to Manley frames, they are wider which means 10 per box.

 

[Boston Bees]

OK, this isn't quite the same but still relates to spacers. I've just bought some Poly hives for one of my clients and I normally use 10 frame castellations in the supers of my cedar hives but how do I achieve similar spacings in a poly hive?

Paynes hives have a groove for a castellated spacer, but assuming you have purchased another type then I guess one of these spacers would do it? Never used one my self so can't give a review.

Castellated 10 Frame Spacer (simonthebeekeeper.co.uk)

 

[Jimmy]

OK, this isn't quite the same but still relates to spacers. I've just bought some Poly hives for one of my clients and I normally use 10 frame castellations in the supers of my cedar hives but how do I achieve similar spacings in a poly hive?

Depends on the make.

For Swienty supers, WBC super castellations are a close enough fit with a notch cut in the side wall to accommodate the extra few mm.
However, having tried this I prefer Sn4 frames.

For Abelo poly supers (superior in my opinion) I use sn4 frames.

 

[Newbeeneil]

oooops I probably should have said I've purchased Abelo hives for my client.
Thanks for the suggestions tho.

 

[pargyle]

I'm certain I read that Brother Adam, for a long time, used very wide headed tacks or drawing pins, one on each of a straight frame to give the required Hoffman spacing. Sounds simple but I can only imagine how large and red my poor thumb would be at the end of a day trying that. Probably very useful for hitching a home on a dark night though.

I used to make my own 14 x 12 frames .. I used dome headed upholstery nails to space the frames - the nails butted up against each other and provided the pefect space -. the bees, also, did not propolise them together as much as they do Hoffmans.

Frames are so cheap in the sales that I gave up making my own ... but the upholstery nails worked well.

 

[RichardBeeW]

I used to make my own 14 x 12 frames .. I used dome headed upholstery nails to space the frames - the nails butted up against each other and provided the pefect space -. the bees, also, did not propolise them together as much as they do Hoffmans.

Frames are so cheap in the sales that I gave up making my own ... but the upholstery nails worked well.

Thanks for the info. and sorry for the long delay in my seeing it. SWMBO has just overseen our old kitchen being taken out - which was rather nice and we managed to sell it - and a new one installed. I thought it would take: One day to remove, One day to tidy up, One day to install the new one. Hahahahahahahaha! Much more complicated than I ever imagined. Great people doing the work though! I'm tempted to try the nails (just because I like trying things). Would you leave each nail proud by about 6mm to give 12mm between frames?

 

[pargyle]

Thanks for the info. and sorry for the long delay in my seeing it. SWMBO has just overseen our old kitchen being taken out - which was rather nice and we managed to sell it - and a new one installed. I thought it would take: One day to remove, One day to tidy up, One day to install the new one. Hahahahahahahaha! Much more complicated than I ever imagined. Great people doing the work though! I'm tempted to try the nails (just because I like trying things). Would you leave each nail proud by about 6mm to give 12mm between frames?

You can buy 6mm domed top upholstery nails that, when they are butted up against each other, give you 12mm between frames.

These give about 6mm in height when hammered in fully.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-UP...187572&hash=item43dfed8807:g:mRMAAOSwGIRXbCDZ

 

[RichardBeeW]

You can buy 6mm domed top upholstery nails that, when they are butted up against each other, give you 12mm between frames.

These give about 6mm in height when hammered in fully.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-x-UP...187572&hash=item43dfed8807:g:mRMAAOSwGIRXbCDZ

Thank you I've contacted them to see what they have that matches. Will probably only give them a go for a while and revert to something more conventional but I do like to play with things - and who knows?

 

[Barbarian]

Instead of upholstery nails I've read of using screw eyes in the edges of side bars.
You position one eye towards the top of the bar and one towards the bottom.
Another pair go on the diagonally opposite side bar edge. One frame will need 4 eyes.

I've given up using Hoffman frames ...... too much wax gunge on the shoulders.
I'm now trying 11's castellations in the brood box.

 

[Newbeeneil]

I've given up using Hoffman frames ...... too much wax gunge on the shoulders.
I'm now trying 11's castellations in the brood box.

I was taught using castellations in the brood box, it's just takes a bit of getting used to but as you say no more sticky frames!

 

[pargyle]

Instead of upholstery nails I've read of using screw eyes in the edges of side bars.
You position one eye towards the top of the bar and one towards the bottom.
Another pair go on the diagonally opposite side bar edge. One frame will need 4 eyes.

That's a lot of work - I could hammer in four upholstery nails in the time it would take me to drill a starter hole and screw in an eyelet ...

 

[pargyle]

I was taught using castellations in the brood box, it's just takes a bit of getting used to but as you say no more sticky frames!

I know a few people who use castellations in brood boxes ... I tried it in one hive for a season after listening to a fellow beek extolling their virtues and knowing that Roger Patterson uses them ... Didn't really work for me, I like to be able to slide the frames along the rails when I'm closing up and inspecting - I found taking frames out of the castellations and putting them back in was tedious, I kept ripping my gloves on the metal edges and I found it slower getting through an inspection. I had a word with my bees and they told me they preferred runners as they could propolise the frames up easier so I let them have their way and changed bacl to runners ....

Everyone to their own ... if you don't try something you wll never know.

Supers ... castellations are fine ... rarely take the frames out until I need to extract them. No problem.