I have a mentee this year who just cannot understand how you balance a nine frame extractor if you have lfull and part full frames, despite showing her several time ..twice i have left her in charge while i make a cup of tea to find the extractoer shaking itself to bits and dancing around the floorI like my 9 frame extractor for just that reason.
The premium one. They gave it to me at the same price as the standard and threw in four tangential screensDid you buy standard or premium 20 frame?
I have used an electric heat gun for years and most of the time is very effective. Occasionally there are frames that have to be sliced with a knife but not many. I think it is important to keep the fames upright during transport. There is normally a small air pocket beneath the capping which keeps the honey away from the wax. If honey touches the capping it becomes wet and will no longer 'pop away' when heated. White looking cappings are needed for this method to work. BTW - important to have a heat gun anyway to clean brood boxes of propolis etc when they are out of use. I always give a blast over the inside of the box to kill any bugs that may be there.A faff, and it won't work on all cappings. I'll stick to the knife thanks
We got the 12 frame Konigen last year - it went through a standard house door without the legs on - we had to add the legs on once inside. Really easy to assemble though, so didn’t view this as a problem. Best wishesI’ve ordered the Konigin 12 Frame should arrive Wednesday.
. I've measured the door width on my honey house . It should fit with ease .
thanks for the tip .
I couldn’t resist the extra capacity for a mere £15 .
I always use a hot air gun, clean and quick, I keep a knife handy for any bruised cappings which are rareWhat’s the consensus on hot air gun uncapping. My hands kill after extracting, but a fair trade for all the lovely honey
Here is another point to consider. If you have sufficient number of hives to justify purchase of an electric extractor then it will be worthwhile to convert supers from ten to nine frames , using 9 frame castellations. Fewer frames loaded with larger quantity of Honey are easier and quicker to extract and better for the bees , probably. My mentor who produces about a ton of Honey per year favours this method.
Sorry no, But I do have a Lyson Premium 20 and can't fault it. smooth running and quiet - the motor fixed on the underside is a much better option. It laso takes about 12 brood frames radially if you need to - I'd still haggle for radial screens thoughSo Abelo (Lyson) have given a good deal on their premium 20, v the Konigen - still more but closer in price.
Difficult to tell from the pictures but looks like the Lyson is slightly better quality, reading around less grumbles in chatter as well. Konigen seem popular and a good price point but with a few niggles.
Konigen in stock, Lyson on 4 week lead.
Never easy. Has anyone seen both Konigen and Lyson to direct compare?
I assume JBM means tangential screens since the machine is radial?- I'd still haggle for radial screens though
I am.Anyone else with a Konigin getting this noise
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