Double Jumbo Langstroth

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I don't know, a lot of people think it is but most of those same people continue to use some kind of standard hive. Even the warre boxes (which we're playing around with a bit) are eight comb units. Personally I value the flexibility of the standard hive and think, with jumbo depth frames, you're best having them in one box. But I'm always interested in learning that I'm wrong (if I am)!


Well , we shall see , I will try one to see how it goes , start with a single and nadir it with another.I will be using the paradise nuc , it has a nice open mesh screen.
 
I'm not surprised his apiary is so sheltered, there's some pretty unstable looking stacks there. But as you say, works for him.
 
I'm not surprised his apiary is so sheltered, there's some pretty unstable looking stacks there. But as you say, works for him.

Yeah I actually thought it looked pretty unstable , think if it were me I'd more likely ratchet strap them down onto a large stand.I definitely wouldnt be going that high , be better to empty a super soon as its capped me thinks
 
I don't know, a lot of people think it is but most of those same people continue to use some kind of standard hive. Even the warre boxes (which we're playing around with a bit) are eight comb units. Personally I value the flexibility of the standard hive and think, with jumbo depth frames, you're best having them in one box. But I'm always interested in learning that I'm wrong (if I am)!

How are you managing using the Warre method, my understanding is no queen excluder is used?
 
How are you managing using the Warre method, my understanding is no queen excluder is used?
Just playing around, but to be clear I'm not using the warre method, just the warre boxes. All that under boxing nonsense leaves me cold. Around here honey boxes go on top above an excluder.
IMG_20200806_202101.jpg
 
Just playing around, but to be clear I'm not using the warre method, just the warre boxes. All that under boxing nonsense leaves me cold. Around here honey boxes go on top above an excluder.
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Lovely , aye it sounds like a disaster to go hunting queens when you dont need to be ! The least disturbance possible is best!
 
Lovely , aye it sounds like a disaster to go hunting queens when you dont need to be ! The least disturbance possible is best!

That's the whole idea of the Warre, you don't use the system for queen hunting. It's aimed at the natural beekeeping, darker art as some like to call it. Though no reason to an extent why one can't add some natural beekeeping methods to a typical vertical hive.
 
It's called : reinventing the wheel...:cool:

No reinvention here. Just a play around with a much smaller box than our modified dadants but on our own terms. They're proving an ideal way to turn an overwintering mini-plus (of which we still have a fair few) into a production colony in less than a year without adding comb or brood from other established colonies. Ticks the increase box and generally gives a honey crop in a much cheaper way than transfering them into mds. As I say, just playing, not trying to invent anything.
 
No reinvention here. Just a play around with a much smaller box than our modified dadants but on our own terms. They're proving an ideal way to turn an overwintering mini-plus (of which we still have a fair few) into a production colony in less than a year without adding comb or brood from other established colonies. Ticks the increase box and generally gives a honey crop in a much cheaper way than transfering them into mds. As I say, just playing, not trying to invent anything.
Doubt it was aimed at you
 
Doubt it was aimed at you
That being the case, apologies to madasafish (although I guess his skin's thick enough not to worry about anything I write!)

On a positive note, his post did encourage me to explain some of the thought process behind starting to use a few warre size boxes.
 
That being the case, apologies to madasafish (although I guess his skin's thick enough not to worry about anything I write!)

On a positive note, his post did encourage me to explain some of the thought process behind starting to use a few warre size boxes.


No need for apologies (but thanks anyway).

My comment referred to the move by others from "pure " warre to warre with QEs.. (it's like vegans eating meat!)
Yes I have a thick hide - like my brain...
 
No need for apologies (but thanks anyway).

My comment referred to the move by others from "pure " warre to warre with QEs.. (it's like vegans eating meat!)
Yes I have a thick hide - like my brain...


Ha, the Vegan comment made me laugh , a Vegan I work with would never buy a beeswax candle because the Bees have been "exploited", however he agreed he would buy them at a premium if the wax was because the hive had been abandoned!Introducing the Vegan Candle........made from bees that were destroyed by pesticides that were sprayed on his fruit and veg :ROFLMAO:
 
Ha, the Vegan comment made me laugh , a Vegan I work with would never buy a beeswax candle because the Bees have been "exploited", however he agreed he would buy them at a premium if the wax was because the hive had been abandoned!Introducing the Vegan Candle........made from bees that were destroyed by pesticides that were sprayed on his fruit and veg :ROFLMAO:
On Radio Cornwall this AM was a report by a VEGAN that there had been a bumper crop of Brussells' Sprouts this year and would make a great substitute for the traditional Christmas turkey!

Well that will do a lot for the environment of Boxing day!!!

Nadelik Lowen
 
On Radio Cornwall this AM was a report by a VEGAN that there had been a bumper crop of Brussells' Sprouts this year and would make a great substitute for the traditional Christmas turkey!

Well that will do a lot for the environment of Boxing day!!!

Nadelik Lowen

:sick:💨
 
Another possible advantage of over-wintering in a ‘vertical arrangement’, particularly a well insulated one, is that the cluster will almost certainly move upwards as winter proceeds, consuming all stores as they proceed.

That means as long as they do not run out of stores they are unlikely to get caught out by a long spell of very cold weather after brooding has started - and then succumbing to isolation starvation. BTDT. As stated above, stability could be a problem, but a ratchet strap (or two) securing a block of wintering colonies works wonders on that score.

I had a colony which easily managed to survive for a couple or three seasons in a 5 or 6 frame 14 x 12 ‘nucleus’ with one or two same format shallows above. The boxes were basically Dartington honey boxes and 1/2 sized Dartington supers made with 6mm ply sides. Those bees had little or no attention in that time as I was recovering slowly after a quad bypass operation. Some scum eventually stole that colony and although the police (eventually) got the scumbag, the colony was destroyed by his interference.

IIRC they were only provided with a proper open mesh floor part way through that first winter. I only had two days notice before hospitalisation late in September, and they really needed some attention when there was more than a couple inches of snow in the middle of December or early January. Two hives got attention that day - that one and another that was a rushed queen change/unite with only a Dartington 1/2 super above a full sized National box with a horizontal board covering the other half of the brood box. The snow at least needed clearing off and a better covering arranged. A long time ago, now.🙂
 
Another possible advantage of over-wintering in a ‘vertical arrangement’, particularly a well insulated one, is that the cluster will almost certainly move upwards as winter proceeds, consuming all stores as they proceed.

That means as long as they do not run out of stores they are unlikely to get caught out by a long spell of very cold weather after brooding has started - and then succumbing to isolation starvation. BTDT. As stated above, stability could be a problem, but a ratchet strap (or two) securing a block of wintering colonies works wonders on that score.

I had a colony which easily managed to survive for a couple or three seasons in a 5 or 6 frame 14 x 12 ‘nucleus’ with one or two same format shallows above. The boxes were basically Dartington honey boxes and 1/2 sized Dartington supers made with 6mm ply sides. Those bees had little or no attention in that time as I was recovering slowly after a quad bypass operation. Some scum eventually stole that colony and although the police (eventually) got the scumbag, the colony was destroyed by his interference.

IIRC they were only provided with a proper open mesh floor part way through that first winter. I only had two days notice before hospitalisation late in September, and they really needed some attention when there was more than a couple inches of snow in the middle of December or early January. Two hives got attention that day - that one and another that was a rushed queen change/unite with only a Dartington 1/2 super above a full sized National box with a horizontal board covering the other half of the brood box. The snow at least needed clearing off and a better covering arranged. A long time ago, now.🙂

I'm very sorry to hear about your misfortunes , thankfully they are behind you now! I am going to try with an AMM queen , I hear you can keep them in a single national mostly and since the jumbo lang Nuc has roughly the same area as a national it might just work . This will hopefully reduce the need to stack high as would with a more prolific strain. I am going to try a single jumbo lang nuc and add a jumbo lang super above a queen excluder and leave it on for the season.A jumbo lang is the equivilant to two mediums supposedly. Only thing is I will have to work out how to deal with OSR , I wont be around to extract it on time .
 
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Just built this wide stand , hopefully when I stack this with 3 more jumbo lang nucs and strap it , it should stop the wind blowing it over!
 

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