Does anyone know what a manley cage is and how I can make one?

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Thankyou sooooooo much. Yes that must be it. I dont suppose you could copy the page before for me as well as i think it might ave more dimensions. I am sure it will be easier to make it from the pictures than to drive 40 miles to borrow one and copy it.

google this:

BICKERSTAFFS QUEEN INTRODUCTION CAGE

I dont think im alowed to post the link to it. He sells them on the same web page
 
You need to get the colony back into balance by adding a frame of open brood,they may make queen cells on this frame,if not add another frame about a week later,and if they don't produce emergency cells from this then add another........ brood gives of pheromone that inhibits laying workers,then you can destroy cells and safely introduce your queen,a twin chute cage is best for this............all of this if the colony is strong and worth it that is....i find a blower and re distribution works well.
 
Bickerstaffes make these. I think you can buy them direct from them or from ********.
 
Ok that seems to have been blocked but it's a well known beekeeping auction site if that's any use.
 
Ok that seems to have been blocked but it's a well known beekeeping auction site if that's any use.

Those can be easily made,they are also another cage used originally by Manley,i use them all the time,twin chute....i prefer the newer plastic version these days though.
 
As you are buying your new queen from HM he will tell you how to minimise the risk by adding frames of brood to the q/less bees, this is one repeatedley to switch of he laying workers, surprised he has not advised you. No one likes the queens they sell to be killed by the bees they are being introduced to.
 
The dimensions on the page scanned by P H look clear enough.

The queen has a 12.7mm wide refuge where she would not need to be adjacent to the mesh. The cage only requires a means of entry and release, through the wider section side, possibly.

Looks no more complicated than that, in fact quite simple (you don't have to follow all the fine details, just the basic idea. Easy to get capped brood into the colony - add a frame from another colony. As P H says, keep it simple.

RAB
 
The Nicot introduction cages are not dissimilar to this in principle. Sold by modern bee keeping. I've had considerable success re-queening hives with these. Place them over a patch of emerging brood, add the queen and leave for a few days. As the brood emerges it immediately accepts the queen. Then open the plug and allow the queen to leave in her own time.

--
fatshark

Sorry bit off topic
Have tried these and although they do work but if there is a small patch of comb without brood there is a risk bees will chew through wax from rear and kill queen.
I make my own butler cages the width of a brood frame from remnants of varoa mesh. To allow the queen a refuge I put a strip of masking tape at top and bottom and a thin strip in middle. Although totally unscientific and just trial and error I believe this allows the queen and attendants to move (more) freely and disperse her pheromones through the hive rather than being confined behind a JZ-BZ .
Cheers
S
 
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Stiffy said:
Have tried these and although they do work but if there is a small patch of comb without brood there is a risk bees will chew through wax from rear and kill queen.

Have you had this happen?
 
Have you had this happen?


Yes, lost two queens recently where resident bees chewed through back of frame to get at and kill queens. Was introducing three queens and the other was fine. I think you need to make sure that you have a full frame of brood and locate the cage in centre so there is no area without brood.
Bit wary of using again and the cages I make seem to work well, so will be sticking with this method fopr time being.
S
 
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