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As others said, very nice job Red. The stainless work is especially good. Any chance of the drawings as HP mentioned or maybe a pic or two more especially the top drive / bearing arrangement ? There no point in me inventing the wheel again. bee-smillie
I make my own home brewery equipment and sometimes need the help of a "tig mate", its looking like I will have to be going to see him again !! He's one of my testers, brewed 15 gallons of a Pedigree Clone this morning.........................bet he would like to try a sample of that ?
 
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The welding was done by my mate with his tig welder, the rings where bent by Afon engineering in Swansea but anyone can make them if they have bending rollers you just have to give them the outside diameter. The top bearing is a sealed for life bearing (no need for greasing) and the bottom bearing is stainless steel sealed for life which is under a protective disc. The bottom bearing sits in a stainless tube with 3 spokes welded to it and bent at right angles and bolted to the drum the spokes are 20 x 3 mm The top cover is perspex which is under the top bar the, flap is hinged with 2 stainless steel hinges made from some scrap 6mm tubing and round bar. the gearing was from an old hand drill I had 5:1 ratio the cross shaft has 2 needle bearings pressed into 2 bits of tube and a "u" frame welded to them which has elongated holes for adjustment. The gears are drilled and secured with rolled pins. You might have noticed the tesco trolly wheels at the bottom, these are swung around for moving it then swung back so the 3 legs are on the floor.
I will have a look for the templates for the inside cage but the rest was just make it up as you go along. The only mathamatical bits you will need is 22/7.
 
i would consider buying the main cage from them who shall not be named as they sell several and the one i like is the 12 frame jobbie for £40, in that way all i need is a 15mm shaft to run down and a set of brace at the bottom to hold it steady the set of gears are not needed as i will shove an electric drill on the top and one cross brace for the top

and three legs
 
That would be hassle free to buy the cage I often wondered why I did not do the same, I also thought about an electric drill thats why my shaft sticks up above the gears. The 3 legs could be angle iron from a bed frame.
 
Sooner or later the question had to arise, so where better to bring up the point regarding the electrification of honey extractors (2011 version).

Inverter Drive Supermarket (motor £55 and controller £93)
Inverter Drive Supermarket (motor £55 and controller £93)
I recommend reading the site and the techno blogs if you are interested. it certainly puts £300+ for electrification into sharp relief. More due diligence to do of course and a few questions to ask, but it looks good and surprise, surprise the company seems to be more than happy to deal with hobbyists and small businesses.

Of note Pete, is the fact that a number of large extractors that use this sort of technology also use gearing, if only to allow the motor to be mounted horizontally. I have visions of you spinning round on top of a 12 frame extractor holding the drill, which will surely need to be fairly large to get that load running up to speed.
 
Sooner or later the question had to arise, so where better to bring up the point regarding the electrification of honey extractors (2011 version).

Inverter Drive Supermarket (motor £55 and controller £93)
http://www.inverterdrive.com/default.aspx

Items #2 and #6 on the front page.

I recommend reading the site and the techno blogs if you are interested. it certainly puts £300+ for electrification into sharp relief. More due diligence to do of course and a few questions to ask, but it looks good and surprise, surprise the company seems to be more than happy to deal with hobbyists and small businesses.

Comments please.

Of note Pete, is the fact that a number of large extractors that use this sort of technology also use gearing, if only to allow the motor to be mounted horizontally. I have visions of you spinning round on top of a 12 frame extractor holding the drill, which will surely need to be fairly large to get that load running up to speed.
 
i was planning oon getting the set of tooth cogs from t*********s to as if the is any thing to go wrong a simple week spot like a cog can go instead.

i will have alook at that link later. i knew you would be the man to ask how!!!!

i was looking at motors a few months ago, the basic choices i could see and there prices are below

Proper brought T*******S set up £200 and bolt on
12 volt dc parvellux motor not inc controller £200
dc controller £100

we only realy need a motor that does 0 rpm to 300 rpm max and most of the machines have or use 80 to 350 watt AC motors.

my next question to you ho great electronic genius and all round fantastic person is how does one build a speed controller unit that is programed to start at a low speed , automaticily speed up for a set time and then shut down, i will make it easy for you and we can have either DC or AC.


i was trying to get hold of some one with washing machine repair knowledge and to see if a washing machine motor and controll box can be butcherd to work it , as basicly thats wjhat we are talking about realy?

its just with this lying down bussiness i have yet to find one.

does anyone on the forum do washing machine repairs or has a stupid friend, sorry wonderfully helpfull person how is very very bored??

or the other idea i had was a sewing machine motor set up on a foot controller, they run at 100 watts or so. the thing is the starting up torque is going to be the issue
 
it looks as if jonny the fridge is going to be busy trying to a shed load of motors at work soon and hombre is about to do a crash course in motor repair and testing, cause i am going to be finding lots of them from any where soon and will be doing the , " is this any good routine" ALOT

MUST ADMIT I WENT FOR THE £30 CHEAPO DRILL FROM TOOL STATION AS IT WAS THE SIMPLEST CHOICE FOR A NON ELECTRICAL MINDED BRUMMIE!!!! LOL
 
Good question actually - Features - Front Mounted Potentiometer, 1 x Analogue Input, 5 Digital Inputs, 1 Relay Contact set.
Programmable from a pc via 'Flashdrop'.
http://www.inverterdrive.com/group/Accessories/68566380-ABB-MFDT-01-FlashDrop/default.aspx
But I don't think that your piggy bank will run to the £753 required for that little device. Having said that, the company is at Chipping Campden, about an hour away, the other side of Evesham, and if you figure out the questions to ask then I'm sure that they will be able to answer them for you.

In addition to the originally mentioned motor and controller, there would be another £45 or so to splodge out for a braking resistor and an EMC filter. (or should that be ECM perhaps).

The inference is that the controller can be controlled with the potentiometer on the front.

However having introduced BIG-BOY features, then I would be inclined to ask about a programming service, for a small cost, but that would infer that you actually knew what you needed. A position that you would likely arrive at after using the controller manually for a short while. I have downloaded the manual for the controller but will not be able to give it a read/skim until tomorrow evening at the earliest as I am playing bees elsewhere tomorrow and need a good nights sleep first.

Could this be a Stonleigh cup of tea conversation? Lots of ducks to line up, but it certainly has grown-up possibilities at a price comparable with the Thor-nes standard offering, when it comes to extractor electrification.
= = =
Incubator at temperature OK?
 
Flashdrop is just an option that is normally not a requirement.
 
i know chippen campden, very very well, i was born and brought up 6 miles away from it, many a good nights apple picking was done over there.

from a shipston on stour point of view it was always reffered to as "IN THE VALLY". due it being the start of the vale of evesham area and they the softys were lower than the shipston hillbillies. lol

one of the funnies for us was when asked by strangers where a village in between our two towns where it was correctly pronounced Ebbrington but we all called it Ubberton, it caused great fun. and of course campdem was the start of the market gardeners /grower areas so a good source of cheap clean fruit and veg and pocket money for fruit , pea, sprout picking

but as you so rightly point out the simple cost savings for a small electric motor and driver is enough to get me going home ward bound
 
i would consider buying the main cage from them who shall not be named as they sell several and the one i like is the 12 frame jobbie for £40,

Say Pete, where is this place, thought you meant big Ts, but theirs are £76 plus postage. Not worth making at £40 ?

Anyone, Red, know what size stainless to use on the rim and spoke. Have got a roller and tig mate is up for it, so its down to materials costs.

On a recent post I mentioned speed controllers, were on Fleabay for less than £20, from China. Have bought electronic kit for brewery from here before and its was fine. Instructions were a little strange. I remember there was a heading Genital, I think they meant General. Don't know where they learnt their english. !!
Anyway back to the plot, they are controlled by a pot, or a few resistors could be used to give a few speeds. Don't see the point of getting to cleaver with progamming..........it doesn't need to run for ages and we won't want to leave this unattended, will we ??
S
 
Sooner or later the question had to arise, so where better to bring up the point regarding the electrification of honey extractors (2011 version).

Inverter Drive Supermarket (motor £55 and controller £93)
Inverter Drive Supermarket (motor £55 and controller £93)
I recommend reading the site and the techno blogs if you are interested. it certainly puts £300+ for electrification into sharp relief. More due diligence to do of course and a few questions to ask, but it looks good and surprise, surprise the company seems to be more than happy to deal with hobbyists and small businesses.

Of note Pete, is the fact that a number of large extractors that use this sort of technology also use gearing, if only to allow the motor to be mounted horizontally. I have visions of you spinning round on top of a 12 frame extractor holding the drill, which will surely need to be fairly large to get that load running up to speed.
DSCF0012-1.jpg


DSCF0005-1.jpg


DSCF0003.jpg


Re-claimed motor,re-claimed solid state fan controller ! Recycling mate !

John Wilkinson
 
Another first rate project.
Is that one of Th**nes universal cages, that you have there?
Wonder if you could post the dia of the rim and spokes material, which look the same to me ? I presume the diameter is 16 inches.
I have to hand a 18 inch dia stainless vessel, which presumably would work out ok. I did have in mind a 12 frame, due to the ability to use smaller multiples of frames but I guess 3 or six is ok and then maybe 2, don't know, not got the experiance ?
S
 
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Hands up :hurray: Good pictures Victor and I have to concede that you have a much more cost effective solution; to be commended.

Smarts are nice, but only if you have to pay the price.
 
Another first rate project.
Is that one of Th**nes universal cages, that you have there?
Wonder if you could post the dia of the rim and spokes material, which look the same to me ? I presume the diameter is 16 inches.
I have to hand a 18 inch dia stainless vessel, which presumably would work out ok. I did have in mind a 12 frame, due to the ability to use smaller multiples of frames but I guess 3 or six is ok and then maybe 2, don't know, not got the experiance ?
S
Yep it's a th**rnes 9 frame cage .
I use 3 home brewed FS s/steel screens in order to extract from national deep frames !
The rim dim of cage is 16", the rod is 10 mil, the rim dim of drum is 19".
Don't make the same mistake I did (not taking frame lugs into account)resulting in my having to use stand-ups to lift top bar for clearance !
As the old adage goes, "measure twice ,cut once" :eek:

John Wilkinson
 
springer i was looking at the wrong price and i was well and truely out sorry about that the 12 frame cage i was looking at is nearer £200 not £40, even the 9 frame is £175

at those prices th***** can take a running jump cause thats just stupid money, for that much money i can afford to buy new stainless bar, 5mm i reacon would do it and a small roll of stainless mig wire and a small bottle of argon and just borrow a friends mig welder for the weekend.

sorry people but i did think it was less than a ton but i rechecked the prices today in there new catalogue and price list, what a plonker i was
 

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