Discussion on what a hive needs to winter successfully.

[jenkinsbrynmair]

they break wind for each other.

Oh no ... JBM Will be along in a moment or two ...

Hey! I resemble that remark!

But many a dark winter's night on full crew storm watch has been livened up with a crew fahrting contest.
Just got to ensure you get your ventilation right!

 

[sugarbush]

Wintering as many colonies as I do, in various sizes, I found that the success of a wintering cluster isn't just about size. It's about how that cluster adapts, or fits itself to their cavity...similarly to what Root said.

Michael; have you ever experimented to see what the smallest configuration is that could be successfully wintered in your area? What do you think about single deeps like some of the guys on here do? Or a mating nuc?

 

[Michael Palmer]

I've wintered minis in 4 way boxes, nucs with 4 standard Langstroth deeps, single medium supers, and 10 frame deeps. All work if the conditions are right. I moved away from the 4 way minis by combining them and wintering on 8 mini-combs, and this year, added a 10 frame mini-comb super to each. while the 4 mini-comb nucs will winter, they take a lot of attention here, where the winter is so long. I prefer to have larger clusters that need no attention till late winter or early spring.

You tapping yet? Maple trees I mean.

 

[sugarbush]

You tapping yet? Maple trees I mean.

I was out tapping this morning, beehives I mean... Just Kidding. Still about 8 weeks early for maple trees.

 

[Michael Palmer]

I guess it depends on how large your sugaring operation is. I know folks with tens of thousands of taps, and they have to start tapping in January. With the new ball valve taps, the tap holes don't dry up as in the old days...if you tap too soon.

For those who don't know about sugaring, here in Vermont, the traditional time to tap is the day after Town Meeting day. Town meeting is the first Tuesday in March. With the modern equipment, tapping after Town Meeting is a thing of the past.

 

[pargyle]

Perhaps Bill Bielby read the ABC of Bee Culture.

“If you will examine the bees at the approach of frosty weather, you will see, from the way in which they draw up and condense, how their combs need to be proportioned. To have them stand the rigors of severe winter weather, they should fill their hives as nearly as possible, and there should be no cold, unfilled spaces, either at the ends or underneath the cluster. If their hive is so full that bees are standing in the doorway, even during severe cold weather, we need have little fear of their suffering.”
Root, A. I., ABC of Bee Culture, 1891, A. I. Root Co., p. 204-205

Sounds very much like he did ... just goes to show - there's nothing new in beekeeping !

I watch your posts with interest Michael .. beekeeping in such extreme weather conditions must be a real challenge. It sounds as though you follow Roots recommendations with your hives.

My hive has always been dummied down so the bees, largely, fill the space they have available plus a couple of frames for expansion and I can see the logic that the best insulation for bees is bees !

I too have a top entrance on my hive but my concern was the loss of heat from a hole at the top of the hive .. it's not an issue in summer but I had a concern that the benefit of my well insulated hive would be negated in winter so I added a periscope entrance .. moisture can still escape but the thermal advantage is maintained ... I occasionally see condensation on the perspex cover to the periscope but never any condensation on my clear crown boards so it seems to work. The bees seem to like it ...