Can you change Beeswax colour with cleaning and filitering

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veebeezuk

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Hi There,

I am a candlemaker and sometimes the batches of raw beeswax are quite dark, is it possible to change the colour of the beeswax with boiling in water and filtration?

Any ideas gratefully received,
thanks,
Sam
 
To a point I suppose...by taking out crap and filtering some smaller bits the colour will change a little...but I do not think it is possible to change dark yellow to light yellow etc. This is because bees put propolis and pollens into the wax - which are (as far as know) impossible to take out.

Can you put candle dye in to 'top up' the colour artificially?
 
Thank you for your kind reply, i was thinking that i just thought id pick some brains over it. I do like the darker colours too and the last batch was quite dark. i don't generally colour my candles i do like to keep them natural as possible.

I am always looking for the wax i do believe that is from capping's as this seams to have a lovely bright yellow colour, if anyone has this for sale on a regular basis please do pm me.

thanks,
Sam
 
Thanks Pargyle - Those sites were really good. I often use Dave C's site - but hadn't found this page before...TY :)

I am just trying candle making for the first time in 15 years - so veebeezuk thread is turning out useful for me too!!
 
Thanks Pargyle - Those sites were really good. I often use Dave C's site - but hadn't found this page before...TY :)

I am just trying candle making for the first time in 15 years - so veebeezuk thread is turning out useful for me too!!

I've been looking at making candles from beeswax (not that I have anywhere near enough bees/wax at present !) - So I have done a fair bit of research - they are much more creative in the USA with their candles from what I can see, lots more 'candle sites' over the pond.

Have a look at this site:

http://oregonbeestore.com/?page_id=408
 
I'm sure it will be more helpful than Pargyle's advice!

http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=23195&page=3
(You will find Pargyle right above the specific post recommended by Anduril)

Kind Regards
Reiner

Thanks for that Reiner ... actually the poster was asking about dark coloured wax not green wax that was the result of metallic contamination. The information provided by DC's site (insomuch as it recommends bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide) seems to be more appropriate advice. However, if you are saying that you have seen dark wax lightened using suphuric acid then I am happy to bow to your greater knowledge ...!

Oh ... that's if you care to look back to Post #4 rather than just tail ending !!!
 
Ultra-violet will bleach it as well.

That's right - I've just been reading some 1880-ish beekeeping books and they recommend extruding the wax into thin strips and exposing it to sunlight ... for a long time.

The other method - as already mentioned - is to use sulphuric acid. The most common fault apparently (in those days) was being too liberal with the 'oil of vitriol'. So - suggest testing with a weak solution first, before increasing the concentration.

LJ
 
Thanks for that Reiner ... actually the poster was asking about dark coloured wax not green wax that was the result of metallic contamination. The information provided by DC's site (insomuch as it recommends bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide) seems to be more appropriate advice. However, if you are saying that you have seen dark wax lightened using sulphuric acid then I am happy to bow to your greater knowledge ...!
Oh ... that's if you care to look back to Post #4 rather than just tail ending !!!
Hi pargyle,
I hope that all will fall into place - no need to bow to my "greater knowledge", as I'm still learning. Quite recently (two weeks ago) I found something that I had to translate, it matches my memories going back to 1988!

From "German Bee Journal" ("Deutsches Bienen Journal"), 8/2013, page 38:

"Old bees wax, which is discoloured, for example, through contact with metals or emulsions - especially when it was melted and stored in unsuitable aluminum or iron pots - can be cleaned or be brightened again by the following method:
Melt the crushed, dark/dirty wax blocks in one litre of water (preferably Aqua Destillata) per kilogram of wax, add 1.0-1.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid (98%) or 2 to 3 grams of oxalic acid dihydrate, boil, then filter through a gauze and allow to cool.
The results are satisfactory and have proven of very well in practice.
When dealing with the above chemicals wear protective gloves, goggles and appropriate clothing."

by:
Bioimkerei Mark Alder
Winteristrasse 8
CH-5612 Villmergen

Please, note, my intention and primary aim here is to share my sources of information with 'veebeezuk'...
(I think I have to post the next translation of another text I found to be connected with the above now!)

Regards
Reiner
 
Hi pargyle,
I hope that all will fall into place - no need to bow to my "greater knowledge", as I'm still learning. Quite recently (two weeks ago) I found something that I had to translate, it matches my memories going back to 1988!

From "German Bee Journal" ("Deutsches Bienen Journal"), 8/2013, page 38:

"Old bees wax, which is discoloured, for example, through contact with metals or emulsions - especially when it was melted and stored in unsuitable aluminum or iron pots - can be cleaned or be brightened again by the following method:
Melt the crushed, dark/dirty wax blocks in one litre of water (preferably Aqua Destillata) per kilogram of wax, add 1.0-1.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid (98%) or 2 to 3 grams of oxalic acid dihydrate, boil, then filter through a gauze and allow to cool.
The results are satisfactory and have proven of very well in practice.
When dealing with the above chemicals wear protective gloves, goggles and appropriate clothing."

by:
Bioimkerei Mark Alder
Winteristrasse 8
CH-5612 Villmergen

Please, note, my intention and primary aim here is to share my sources of information with 'veebeezuk'...
(I think I have to post the next translation of another text I found to be connected with the above now!)

Regards
Reiner

So that's good - so do you think that this process will significantly lighten the colour of old wax ?

Cappings with their bright, light, yellow appearance are highly desired by candle makers ... is it then possible to lighten 'comb wax' (for want of a better name) ? Because this is what I felt the OP was seeking ....

I'm no chemist but I suspect that contamination from ferrous metals gives a brown colour as a result of iron oxides .., the green colour mentioned oxides of copper. The treatment with Sulphuric acid would convert these contaminants into sulphates of iron which are white and would thus lighten wax discloured by exposure to older iron cooking pots ... not sure about copper as copper sulphate is blue ...my knowledge of chemistry is fast fading into unreadable sections of my brain I'm afraid !

Mind you ... my memory is sufficient to remember a drop of concentrated sulphuric acid burning a hole through my white lab coat, trousers underneath and still having enough energy left to leave a nice red mark on my leg underneath ... so perhaps it's not such a good idea after all !!
 
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Like the site recommended over the pond - Cheers Pargyle...Amazes me though how expensive moulds are everywhere...:(
 
Only just skimmed through earlier replies - surprised to see Sulphuric acid mentioned!

I filter my wax through 15 dernier tights, and if it's still grubby, filter again through fluffy lint.

The whole point of beeswax is that it's a natural product so imo any interface with chemicals loses the point.
 
Like the site recommended over the pond - Cheers Pargyle...Amazes me though how expensive moulds are everywhere...:(

Yes ... it's a real pain ... I can only suppose that it's a low volume product.

You can make your own moulds using mould makers silicon rubber... there's an initial investment but I think they work out cheaper than 'shop bought' moulds, you can also be quite creative with what you use to create your moulds.

There's a really nice video on youtube .... USA again ... that you might like:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVzyKEs4zhU"]Mold Making Tutorial: How to Make Your Own Custom Candle Mold - YouTube[/ame]
 
@ veebeez. Check online for articles written by Andy Willis. He made the B8KA Diamond Jubilee candles.

A sideways sort of question. On your site veebeez.co.uk you say, "Beeswax has the most amazing ant-bacterial properties and burning our pure Beeswax candles or melts is the most natural way to refresh and purify your home." Does this mean that burning a beeswax candle is as good as using, say, Dettox. Or is it less strong?
 
Hi There,
I am a candlemaker and sometimes the batches of raw beeswax are quite dark, is it possible to change the colour of the beeswax with boiling in water and filtration?
Any ideas gratefully received,
thanks,
Sam
Hi Sam,
Here's more that could be of interest to you. I visited your website and think you are big enough into wax processing to be able to make the most of it.

From "German Bee Journal" ("Deutsches Bienen Journal"), 5/2013, page 41:

Old bees wax of approximately 10 kilograms accumulated over time, melted in aluminum or metal pots, would have been put almost into the bin for mixed recyclables at a clean-up operation.
An attempt by the method "Purifying with water and Citric Acid" was still worth a try. I thoroughly boiled 2 kg of grayish brown bees wax in a wax settling pot together with 1 litre of rain water and 6 grams of citric acid for one hour. The result was remarkable, but not yet convincing regarding the colour.
On the second try I doubled the amount of water as well as the amount of citric acid. I increased the boiling time to two hours, and left it on the hot plate to coole-off slowly. This time the result was satisfactory.
Further trials showed that the degree of purity as well as wax colour are influenced by the duration of the boiling process.

by:
Hans Neudert
63579 Freigericht-Bernbach

Regards
Reiner

P.S.: My lecturer in 1988 explained that almost all discolouration in bees wax can be traced back to a range of metal parts present in a bee hive - frame nails, frame wires, metal spacers, etc...
 
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Hi Sam,
Here's more that could be of interest to you. I visited your website and think you are big enough into wax processing to be able to make the most of it.

From "German Bee Journal" ("Deutsches Bienen Journal"), 5/2013, page 41:

Old bees wax of approximately 10 kilograms accumulated over time, melted in aluminum or metal pots, would have been put almost into the bin for mixed recyclables at a clean-up operation.
An attempt by the method "Purifying with water and Citric Acid" was still worth a try. I thoroughly boiled 2 kg of grayish brown bees wax in a wax settling pot together with 1 litre of rain water and 6 grams of citric acid for one hour. The result was remarkable, but not yet convincing regarding the colour.
On the second try I doubled the amount of water as well as the amount of citric acid. I increased the boiling time to two hours, and left it on the hot plate to coole-off slowly. This time the result was satisfactory.
Further trials showed that the degree of purity as well as wax colour are influenced by the duration of the boiling process.

by:
Hans Neudert
63579 Freigericht-Bernbach

P.S.: My lecturer in 1988 explained that almost all discolouration in bees wax can be traced back to a range of metal parts present in a bee hive - frame nails, frame wires, metal spacers, etc...

OK Reiner ... I like this a lot more. Citric acid is relatively safe to use ... it might be worth considering Oxalic acid in place of the Citric as it is still 'safe' as far as acids go (I use it for killing rust and removing rust stains) so it may prove to be even more effective - particularly as Oxalic is excellent for rendering Iron Oxides into Oxalates which are white and fairly harmless when subjected to heat. I'm not so sure about any sulphate residues being left in candle wax after using sulphuric acid.

Nice one ... worth translating, thank you. Bit of experimentatio needed by someone now ? Anyone got any dark coloured wax ???
 
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