Building up a small colony

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Meanwhile, back to the original question....

Putting the small colony on the side of an oil seed rape field in flower should give them a good boost but watch out for swarming and give them plenty of new frames to draw out.

A small colony cannot get any boost from rape. As I said, minimum factor is number of nurser bees (under 2 weeks old) and heated brood area.

Good foraging only stuck the brood cells.

You just cannot accelerate 5 frame colony.
 
I agree Finman and worse still a small nuc can actually go backwords on early OSR due to harsh conditions and sudden rain showers which often decimate the foraging force.

As for finding an OSR site it is the same for any site, what I do is go look, then seek the owner and then ask permission to put my bees over there, and preferably near a road, out of site and if at all possible behind a locked gate.

PH
 
I agree with Finman, my experience this season, together with observation and mathematics, suggests that with a small colony the number of nurse bees is the limiting factor in the initial stages.

The queen will only lay as many eggs as the nurse bees can feed and cap. A breeding cycle is approximately 3 weeks.

Each breeding cycle might result in a net increase of 10% - 15% in the overall number of bees.

Arithmetic suggests therefore that the colony size will double approximately every seven breeding cycles, assuming adequate food, good weather, and a healthy queen and brood. Not all of which prevail all of the time.

Therefore it is likely to take 20 weeks or more to achieve a full hive from a small nuc, and longer if it has large frames like 14x12 or bigger (double brood ?)

Therefore starting in early March, full colony size will not be reached in less than 5 months, i.e. August, and only then if there has been no bad wet weather in summer.

With big frames to draw a lot of wax onto, having reached full colony strength the bees will concentrate on putting pollen and honey stores in the brood box during the first season, leaving little or no surplus to be put into supers.

They should do well in their second season if disease is kept low.

This has been my experience this year and I have learned there is no substitute for a large colony at the start of the season.

The best and quickest way to get a 3 frame nuc to develop and grow faster is to add bees and brood from other colonies, or combine more than one colony into one hive.

There is nothing much wrong with starting with a three frame nuc, but it's a slow buildup. Sometimes that doesn't really matter.

All the above assumes no swarms occur and the queen lays all the time, both are difficult things for a new beekeeper to achieve.
 
Hawklord, don't forget the potential of bait hives as part of a build up strategy, may not work and you may have to be careful about disease monitoring and segregation but it is a shot to nothing (assuming you have hives parts spare /unused nuc / or knock up a ply bait hive).
Beneft No 2. If come what may your colony swarms a bait hive gives you some chance of recovering in your abscence
 
There are those out there that split ALL of their colonies in late March or early April to hinder the swarming instinct.

The Q+ elements are kept as nucs with 3 frames of brood to grow/sell/keep in reserve and multiples (2,3 or 4) of the remaining Q- parts are united and have a bought in Q introduced, to firstly create a strong colony moving forward and secondly to keep up the foraging force.

Just a thought.
 
There are those out there that split ALL of their colonies in late March or early April to hinder the swarming instinct.

.

But where from you get queens for splitting in spring?
It depends what they are doing. If they rent hives for pollination and get money per hive, splitting is a business.

In Finland no one pay for pollination.
 

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