Brave to braze?

[Bluetractorman]

Anyone tried brazing a sublimator alloy "spoon" back onto the steel heat tip?
The mapp gas flame is about 3000 degrees. Hmmmm.
Or shall I be the guinea pig!

 

[pargyle]

Where is the wire that goes down the tube to the pan ? ... Brazing the pan back on may be the least of your problems. It is possible to braze steel to aluminium but you need the correct brazing rods and a reactive flux so it's not that easy. It was probably silver soldered originally and the pan reached a temperature above that where the silver solder melted. You could use a higher grade of silver solder but I think you might be better to drill a couple of holes through the pan and into the rod and put a couple of small self tapping screws in to locate and hold the rod in place.

But ... the power supply to the pan may be the first thing you have to address. If the pan is getting that hot you might need some heat shielding on the wire - or you need to adjust your vaping technque. Pan sublimators are supposed to be kept on power for a couple of minutes at most and then cooled down by putting the pan into a bucket of water before starting on the next hive.

 

[JamezF]

Back when I were a lad making boot scrapers in metalwork classes, I feel sure that "brazing" and "silver soldering" were considered different processes. These days I get the impression that the terms are used interchangeably. Which is irritating when I am searching the interwebs for information on joining copper tube to some stainless steel fittings that I hope will arrive from China in the relatively near future.

James

 

[Gilberdyke John]

Anyone tried brazing a sublimator alloy "spoon" back onto the steel heat tip?
The mapp gas flame is about 3000 degrees. Hmmmm.
Or shall I be the guinea pig!

Looking at the two indentations I wonder if it was ever brazed? Can't tell from the photo and I'm not familiar with that model but I'd hazard a guess it relied on grip from deformed metal under the indentations. A sort of crimp.

 

[Bluetractorman]

Where is the wire that goes down the tube to the pan ? ... Brazing the pan back on may be the least of your problems. It is possible to braze steel to aluminium but you need the correct brazing rods and a reactive flux so it's not that easy. It was probably silver soldered originally and the pan reached a temperature above that where the silver solder melted. You could use a higher grade of silver solder but I think you might be better to drill a couple of holes through the pan and into the rod and put a couple of small self tapping screws in to locate and hold the rod in place.

But ... the power supply to the pan may be the first thing you have to address. If the pan is getting that hot you might need some heat shielding on the wire - or you need to adjust your vaping technque. Pan sublimators are supposed to be kept on power for a couple of minutes at most and then cooled down by putting the pan into a bucket of water before starting on the next hive.

The wires are all inside the rod. Slightly like a diesel engine glow plug. I was a bit surprised to discover that when it finally came right off. Maybe self tappers is the safer option, I'd have to adapt my wooden pan holding jig/board to make room for them. It's great being retired to have the time to faff about!

 

[Newbeeneil]

It's great being retired to have the time to faff about!

You are either recently retired or not married as since I've retired I seem to have less time to "faff about"

 

[Bluetractorman]

Looking at the two indentations I wonder if it was ever brazed? Can't tell from the photo and I'm not familiar with that model but I'd hazard a guess it relied on grip from deformed metal under the indentations. A sort of crimp.

Now you mention it.. there are corresponding twin indentations on either side of the pan. Something with jaws has been been used. Inside the tube I can't see anything, no apparent holes. Chinese crimping system possibly. Or maybe connection for some power to heat/glue a compound.

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Chinese crimping system possibly

or burns

 

[Xander]

Back when I were a lad making boot scrapers in metalwork classes, I feel sure that "brazing" and "silver soldering" were considered different processes. These days I get the impression that the terms are used interchangeably. Which is irritating when I am searching the interwebs for information on joining copper tube to some stainless steel fittings that I hope will arrive from China in the relatively near future.

James

I built a still a few years back, I tig brazed part of it but found silver solder sufficient for other parts (lead free) It all depends how strong a joint you need. You just need to remember to have a very good fitup for either process. If I were to build another I'd probably just gas braze the lot (although that would mean buying a refill for the gas and I'm a bit tight don't ya know)
Good luck with your project.

 

[Xander]

Now you mention it.. there are corresponding twin indentations on either side of the pan. Something with jaws has been been used. Inside the tube I can't see anything, no apparent holes. Chinese crimping system possibly. Or maybe connection for some power to heat/glue a compound.

Some solder and lots of flux down the tube to help with heat transfer and a couple of grub screws to be sure, that way there will be no need to widen the entrance as the screws will be flush.

 

[Bluetractorman]

Right folks... Two grub screws and the job's a good'un
Thanks for all the good advice.

 

[Swarm]

Right folks... Two grub screws and the job's a good'un
Thanks for all the good advice.

Great stuff, have you tested it?

 

[Bluetractorman]

Yes! Good ques. Twice. Phew.

 

[pargyle]

Right folks... Two grub screws and the job's a good'un
Thanks for all the good advice.

Cracking job ...sometimes left field is where you need to be ! Well done ...