Bees wax furniture polishes, part one

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hedgerow pete

Queen Bee
Jan 26, 2009
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UK, Birmingham, Sandwell. Pork scratching Bandit c
Hive Type
Ok people, as ever using my enforced unemployment for something usefull I have just spent seveveral hours pulling loads out of the internet and compiled another sticky thread for us to use. There are three parts one is for polish and balms and the second is for the personal use such as medical and lip balms and skin creams. And the third is making the dam stuf and belive me after reading this lot you will hate flippin wax as much as i do!!
The basic idea is that normal clean bees wax is to hard to rub into wood and even harder to buff up to a reasonable polish so we cut it. The agent used to dilute the wax block is then mixed in and in use it then evaporates away just leaving the wax polish behind.
The next step is that the standard bees wax we have is a little sticky and also a little to hard to polish and buff up. So we can then go to the next step which is to add a little canuba wax to the mix this comes from a plant rather than a bee but it does alter our mixes.
There is below a massive and i do need massive amount of recipes for you to decide apon. What I would you do when considering them is to decide what sort of market you can aim for and then mix accordingly. The top recipe is a mixture of the many others and I suggest that you use it as your starting point.
By adding extra bees wax is makes a firmer polish
By adding extra canuba wax ir makes it a better finish after buffing but extreamly hard to get it onto the wood in the first place.
By adding extra solvent we can make the polish softer all the way to making it a liquid rather than a block of wax paste.
Now everyone has normaly heard of bees wax furniture polish but it also used to polish leather and metals and water proofing coats, Barbour have been doing it for donkeys years.
Most of the ingreadiants are easily avalible from chemists or on line sellers.
Prices wise as a product we are talking in March 2011 here.
Metal tin to put it in to sell, £1
Tin labels £0.50
Canuba wax is £5 delivered for 250 grams
Turpentine spirit was £3 for 1 litre
Plus your wax
So the selling price average is about £8 for 200gram tins and about £4 for 80gram tins. Yes you can buy the shop stuff cheaper but we are selling a premium product here not a tesco value range jobbie. It also depends on your market demographics aswell you wont sell exspensive products to poor people.
Also look at your markets to as furniture polish is about 20% of the wax markets. Don’t forget horse leather, falconry leathers, wood turners preffere harder waxes, heritage building maintanence and construction workers, leather sewing uses wax coated threads so does almost every boat sail manufacturer for the threads even more so for old square rigger ships. You will find admin wandering the Haslar harbour next week looking like a cinema ice cream seller wandering up and down selling the blocks of wax off for silly money!!!!! Ha ha ha.
So here we go. Pete’s basic recipe for starters
Two parts by weight of white spirit and one part of bees wax
Next step is to keep to the same ratios but swap to turpentine instead as it gives ,1 a better sellable smell, 2 it produces a better product to sell.
Another step, and belive me we are talking hundreds of flippin steps.
Lower the turpentine ratio so we are useing 5 parts turps to 3 parts wax( 500gm of turps to 300gm of wax)
Heres the next step lets add about a table spoon of canuba wax to the mix
And another, surely your getting the idea by now so i will just list them !!
Homemade Beeswax Furniture Polish Recipes
Recipe #1
2 1/2 cups Turpentine
4 oz Beeswax
2 TBS Carnauba Wax
• Melt the wax in a double boiler then remove from heat.
• Add the turpentine and stir well with a wooden spoon. Pour into jars, seal and allow to cool before use.
Recipe #2
2 Pints Turpentine
1 Pint Linseed Oil
5 oz Beeswax
1 TBS Carnauba Wax
• Melt wax in a double boiler and remove from heat. Add linseed oil, stir well. Add turpentine, stir well. Pour into jars, seal.
Recipe #3 – Paste
50/50 Beeswax and Turpentine
• Melt beeswax first then remove from heat and add the turpentine.
Recipe #4 – Paste Recipe
Paraffin Wax
2 Wide Mouth Mason Jars
Mineral Spirits or Turpentine
• Grate beeswax and fill one jar 3/4 full. Grate Paraffin wax and add to the beeswax until jar is nearly full (about 2″ from top). Empty the grated wax in a double boiler and melt.
• Remove from heat then add an equal amount of mineral spirits or turpentine (nearly a jar full)*. Stir to mix then pour into the two glass jars, dividing evenly. Seal tightly and allow to cool before using.
• *For a less firmer paste, use a full jar of solvent instead of a nearly full jar. For a firmer paste, add some carnauba wax to be melted together with the beeswax and paraffin wax in the first step (no more than 20%).
Recipe #1

Materials Needed
• 4 oz beeswax
• 2 tablespoons carnauba wax
• 2 ½ cups odorless turpentine or mineral spirits

Melt both the waxes in a double boiler. Once they melt completely, add the turpentine or mineral spirits in. Mix the polish properly with a wooden spoon and take a clean cloth to apply it over the furniture. Dip a small part of the cloth in the polish and rub it over the furniture in small circles. Keep turning the cloth once it gets dirty. Let the polish dry and then take another clean cloth to buff the furniture. Apply more than one coat if necessary.

Recipe #2

Materials Needed
• 50 g pure soap flakes (scent your choice)
• 100 gm beeswax
• 500 ml turpentine
• 250 ml water

Warm water and dissolve the soap flakes in a pan. Shave the beeswax and place it in another pan with the turpentine. Melt the wax over a double boiler or microwave. Check the temperature of both the liquids. They need to be same before you mix them. Now both the mixtures go in together in a pan and stir it with a wooden stick. Follow the application procedure from beeswax furniture polish recipe #1.

Recipe #3

Materials Needed
• 4 oz beeswax
• ¼ cup liquid soap (scent your choice)
• ¼ cup pine oil
• 2 cups turpentine
• 1 cup very warm water

Dissolve the liquid soap in warm water and let the mixture cool down. Melt the beeswax in a microwave or double boiler and add the turpentine in it. Let this mixture cool as well. Once both the liquids are cool enough (not at boiling temperature), mix them together properly with a wooden stick. If the beeswax furniture polish turns solid again, reheat it for a minute and use it. Follow the application procedure from beeswax furniture polish recipe #1.

Recipe #4

Materials Needed
• 100 gm beeswax
• 250 ml solvent
• 150 ml warm water
• 50 ml pine oil
• 50 gm pure soap flakes

Dissolve the soap flakes in warm water and let the mixture cool down. Melt the beeswax and solvent in a microwave or double boiler. Let this mixture cool as well and then add the pine oil to it. Once both the liquids are cool enough (not at boiling temperature), mix them together properly with a wooden stick. Follow the application procedure from beeswax furniture polish recipe #1

Wood polish (liquid or paste like)
1.5 parts turpentine and 1 part beeswax or b) 4 parts beeswax, 2 parts turpentine, 1 part of orange,
lemon, coconut or lineseed oil. Grate beeswax into the turpentine. Add one of the oils and mix. Store
in labelled tins or bottles with tight fitting lids
150 year old leather waterproofinig wax recipe
1 part beeswax
1 part turpentine
1/2 part linseed oil
Boil together and let cool. Good on leather and for reproofing waxed cotton raincoats. More or less turpentine will affect a creamier or harder consistency.
this recipe is the same mentioned by M.H. Woodford in his book "A Manual Of Falconry

1oz beeswax
21/2 oz white wax (good quality candles)
5oz liquid parrafin.

Shred and melt the beeswax and white wax in a tin over a slow fire. Add liquid parafin and stir well. when well mixed pour into a wide mouthed jar or tin.

I use this and the above quantitys will last the average falconer years.It sets quite solid and is easy to use , I dress everything leather with it including my gloves ...It really is super....
BEESWAX WOOD CONDITIONER (for previously finished wood)
1 ounce beeswax
1 pint turpentine
2 cups water
1 ounce Ivory soap flakes
Shred wax into turpentine; cover and leave in a warm spot. Shake container from time to time.
Bring 2 cups water to a boil.
Add soap and stir until dissolved. Add it to the wax/turpentine, stirring briskly until an emulsion forms.

Famous Three in One Solid Furniture Polish
Equal portions of linseed oil, warmed beeswax and turpentine.
This, like some of the other recipes, can be experimented with for best results. Here it is good to begin with small quantities, about a cup of each ingredient. The warmed materials should be carefully and thoroughly mixed together with a wooden stick, then pour into the usual wide mouthed storage jar. The final color is usually a rich gold.
Beeswax Polish
Beeswax furniture polish with it's soft, satin shine is considered the ultimate in wood care. Note that there is very little difference between this formula and the formula for shoe polish.
4 ounces (weight) beeswax
2 tablespoons carnauba wax
2 1/2 cups odorless turpentine or mineral spirits
Melt the waxes on high in a microwave or in a double boiler. Remove the waxes from the heat and stir in the turpentine or mineral spirits. Apply the polish with a clean cloth and rub in small circles. Turn the cloth as it becomes dirty. Allow the polish to dry, then buff with a clean cloth. If more than one coat is desired, wait two days between applications.
Liquid Polish
4 oz. (weight) beeswax
2 T. carnauba wax
2 1/2 Cups mineral spirits or Turpenoid
Melt the waxes on high in a microwave (watch closely) or in a double boiler. Remove the waxes from the heat and stir in the mineral spirits.
Beeswax Special furniture Cream Polish
4 oz. beeswax
1/4 cup liquid soap
2 cups turpentine
1 cup very warm water
1/4 cup pine oil
Dissolve the soap well in the warm water, and let cool. Using the double boiler technique, melt the beeswax shavings in the turpentine, remove and cool. When both mixes are cool , mix gently and thoroughly with a wooden stick. If, as happens, the mix cools too quickly and hardens again, re-heat gently while stirring.
Furniture Cream Polish #2
1 pint linseed oil
4 oz. beeswax
Melt together, mix thoroughly, and put into container.
Furniture Oil
1 pint linseed oil
6 oz. beeswax
Melt the two ingredients together over low heat and store in closed bottle.
Floor Polish
Melt equal portions of beeswax and turpentine together for use on wooden floors.
Holiday Floor Polish
4 oz. beeswax
1/2 cup liquid soap
1/2 pint water
1/4 cup linseed oil
1/4 cup turpentine
Melt the wax in the warm water, then mix in the soap. When cooled, add the turpentine and linseed oil. Store in covered container.
Leather Waterproofing
4 oz. beeswax
4 oz. resin or rosin (music stores carry)
1 pint vegetable oil
Melt the solids in the oil, and apply while warm.
Waterproof & Leather Softener
1 oz. (weight) beeswax
8 oz/ (weight) petroleum jelly
Melt the ingredients in a microwave or double boiler. Brush the hot mixture onto the leather and allow it to penetrate. If possible, place the item in hot sun. Polish the leather with a cloth to remove excess waterproofing.
Beeswax Furniture Polish
Another simple recipe is to make your own beeswax furniture polish. All you need is to substitute olive oil in the above recipe for beeswax – so 2 parts of beeswax to 1 part of lemon juice. Alternatively, you could use the following recipe to create a creamy beeswax furniture polish: Furniture polish protects and preserves wood furniture, which helps to keep the wood from drying and makes the surface more resistant to scratching. A beeswax-based polish provides a warm shine to antique furniture. Repeated use of beeswax polish coats the wood with a protective shell that preserves the beauty of the piece without harming the finish. You can make your own furniture polish to keep your antique furniture looking its best. Use a solvent like turpentine to dilute the beeswax and transform it into a more paste-like consistency. The turpentine also enhances absorption of the wax into the wood.
• 100 grams beeswax
250 ml turpentine
55g (2oz) beeswax
280ml (1/2 pint) turpentine
7g (1/4oz) fragrance or essential oil of your choice
You’ll basically need to very gently heat the turpentine and wax in a metal saucepan, taking care not to allow it to simmer or boil. Mix the ingredients together as the wax dissolves. Bear in mind that turpentine is a flammable material, and so the necessary precautions should be made beforehand. If you like the smells of polishes like orange oil furniture polish, then at this stage you can add in a drop of fragrance oil once the mixture starts to cool. You can then transfer the mixture into a jar or container with a lid. Leave to cool.
Simple furniture polish
Mix 2 parts olive oil or cooking oil with 1 part lemon juice, use beeswax if possible instead of the oil it will smell lovely.

Furniture Polish
2 ounces beeswax
1/2 pint turpentine
About 1/4 ounce Essential Oil
You need to blend the mixture together. So heat a pan of hot water and use a bowl that fits in it. Turpentine is flammable so you need to be careful. Grate up the beeswax and place in the bowl with the turpentine and heat till it all melts. Take off the heat and allow to cool. Just before it starts to harden add any essential oil that you fancy for a lovely aroma. You can use lavender or lemon or anything really. Once it has cooled down completely it will be like a thick cream. You will have to put a bit of effort in to get a shine, and after a couple of hours the smell of turpentine will diminish.
To make the above polish more manageable you can melt a table spoon of soap in 4 a cup of warm water and blend into the above mixture.
Furniture Polish II
Mix equal parts of turpentine, Boiled linseed oil and vinegar, with some lemon oil. Wipe into wood and wipe off excess with a soft cloth. Be sure you are using BOILED linseed oil.
To make your own furniture polish, use a 8 oz bottle of hair spray (pump king), a cup of lemon juice and four cups of water. Boil this mixture until about half has boiled away. Cool and put back into the spray bottle.
How to Make Green Wood Polish
Oil, vinegar and wax combine to make either a cleaning liquid wood polish or a creamy polish. These natural ingredients condition your wood furnishings to keep them from drying out. Using a mixture with vinegar in it also cleans away built-up polish, dirt or grime. Natural wood polishes are economical, non-toxic, smell good without artificial additives and have the added benefit of softening your hands as you use them.
things you'll need:
• Olive, jojoba or linseed oil
• White vinegar
• Lemon oil
• Beeswax
• Double boiler
• Soft cloths
1. Oil, Vinegar and Lemon
o 1
Measure 1/4 cup white vinegar, 3/4 cup olive oil and 1/4 teaspoon lemon oil. Do not use extra-virgin olive oil. This is a good use for the less expensive oils. Linseed or plain vegetable oil may be used as well.
o 2
Combine all ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Mix well. This combination will stay fresh for for six to 12 months.
o 3
Shake the mixture before use. Apply a small amount to a soft cloth and rub into wood. The vinegar will break down dirt and grime, and the oils shine your wood. Rub with the grain of your wood, using additional oil and vinegar mixture until all surfaces are coated. Let sit for 15 minutes, then rub away excess with a dry, soft cloth.
2. Beeswax and Oil
o 1
Grate beeswax until you have 1/4 cup. Add this to 1 cup olive, linseed or jojoba oil. Do not use extra-virgin olive oil for this project.
o 2
Add the oil and beeswax to a double boiler and heat until the beeswax is fully melted and incorporated into the oil. Carefully pour the heated mixture into a bowl. Allow the mixture to cool, stirring every half hour. You will be left with a creamy-textured furniture polish.
quarter cup of ivory soap, one quarter pound of beeswax, 1 cup of turpentine and half a cup of water. Dissolve the soap in hot water, put the shaved wax into the turpentine and then slowly melt together, then pour the soap mixture into the mix and stir with a wooden spoon, once well stirred pour it into a glass jar and you have it, very easy. Bees wax cream furniture polish which can also be used on cars with lessened amount of turpentine is made by using and mixing quarter lb of beeswax, 2 cups of turpentine, quarter cup of liquid Ivory soap, 1 cup of warm to boiling water and quarter cup of pine oil. The only difference it you have to make sure all the beeswax is dissolved first and cool then mix it into the warm soapy water until it congeals and then reheat together and dissolve. If you reduce the turpentine content you can use it on your car too. It goes on smooth and it works good. Although, I am partial to Carnauba wax for cars for it's ease of use, but from a realistic standpoint of protection the carnauba only lasts three months while the beeswax melt might last slightly longer.
For solid beeswax furniture polish, which is preferred by the antique dealers we met on the back roads of NH, VT and Maine, all you do is use equal amounts of linseed oil, beeswax and turpentine. The finished product is golden brown and see through and looks rich in content. Now you have smelled lemon oil in furniture polish, which can easily be added to the boiling water during the process. There are many good waxes to use on cars that you would not put on surf boards, furniture or statues. Wax is found in the human ear also. There are two different types and your genetics dictate which one you have. Most plants have a thin protective coating of wax also. Most fruit and citrus trees and vegetables plants have wax on the fruit, leaves and vegetables they produce that we eat. Waxes are also produced by animals and also some fish. Other wax components are found in minerals and petroleum products and distillates. There are Polymer or synthetic, manufactured by man into various types of waxes. We get waxes from a variety of sources really.
Carnauba wax is on the leaves of the carnauba palm trees. The best Carnauba wax comes from in my opinion the Palm Trees of Brazil.
Candelilla wax comes from a plant that grows in parts of Mexico, Although it is the major component of candle wax, it is mixed in with other waxes normally in the candles we use in our homes.
Wool wax from animals is also common to man. Lanolin, it is called, after purification is used in soaps in the industry, and also cosmetics as well as certain ointments for first aid and which doctor stuff.
Paste Polish: is a simple blend of wax with a suitable solvent. The traditional solvent is pure turpentine. This can be replaced by turps substitute or white spirit if cost is a factor. A half and half mixture gives the best of both worlds.
Melt 4oz. of beeswax in a double pan to no more than 70C /160F. Pour ½ pint of warmed solvent into wax and stir thoroughly. Pour into prepared containers. Leave to set before adding lids. The addition of Carnauba wax (obtainable from bee equipment suppliers) will eliminate any tackiness and reduce the amount of "elbow grease" required when buffing.
Ingredients are ½oz. carnauba wax, 4½oz. beeswax, and 1-pint solvent. Method as before. Vary amount of solvent to achieve preferred consistency.

Emulsion Polish: An emulsion is a mixture of two liquids (wax phase and water phase) that don’t normally mix. Emulsions clean and polish in one operation and are easy to apply.
Wax phase: Melt 4½oz. of beeswax in double pan and then add 1 pint of solvent. Raise temperature to about 80C/180F.
Water phase: In pan with pouring lip dissolve ½oz. of soap flakes by pouring 1 pint of hot water over. Adjust temperature to 80C/180F.
Remove from heat. Begin to stir wax phase . Use a hand-whisk gently at slow speed using only one paddle. Very slowly pour water phase into wax. Continue stirring for several minutes after a good emulsion forms. Using a funnel pour into warmed bottles or jars.

Waxes (Prepared recipes)
Simple beeswax polish
Hot melt 1 part beeswax in a double boiler and add 3 parts turpentine (genuine turpentine, not petroleum spirit based substitutes). Make at least a pint, because otherwise it's easier just to buy it (your beekeeper often sells it).
Creamed beeswax
A softer and easily buffed version that's good for leather. Can leave a residue in the pores of open-grained bone or wood.
5oz beeswax, melted in the double boiler.
Remove from heat and stir in 1 pint of turpentine in a large vessel.
Mix 1 tablespoon of ammonia with 1 pint of water.
Add the ammoniated water to the wax and stir hard.
Pot it while still warm.
Glossy wax polish
Good for polishing wood or bone to a high sheen.
Melt 3 parts beeswax with 1 part carnauba wax.
Remove from heat, stir in 3 parts of turpentine.
Bull wax
Shiny, but hard work.
Mix something like 2-3 parts of beeswax, 1 part of carnuaba and 1 part of candelilla wax in the double boiler.
Remove from heat, stir in turpentine - about three times as much as there is wax
Woodmouse Beeswax Wood Polish Recipe:
• 1 part beeswax
• 4 parts oil (options include olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, walnut oil, etc)
• Instructions:
Fill a measuring cup with one cup of your chosen oil. (PS - I'm using olive oil in these photos because I had just made a jojoba batch and then realized I should have taken photos for a post but didn't have any more oil. Jojoba oil is clear while olive oil is greenish/yellowish.) Use a cheese grater and shave your beeswax or pound it into bits with a hammer. I bought a cheese grater solely for my beeswax polish making because I don't want to use utensils that touch our food, especially for making polish that go on items to be sold. Getting it into tiny bits will make the melting process go much quicker but this is optional. Add beeswax to your measuring cup until it Next, you need to melt the beeswax. Heat in the microwave or in a double boiler on the stove top. It will need to be heated very hot, beeswax has a melting temperature of just under 150 degrees F. Stir it around and make sure all the beeswax is fully melted and dissolved. Suddenly, the beeswax melts and your mixture will look just like a liquid oil. Careful, it is hot! If you want to add essential oils* (I don't use them) now would be the time to blend them in, before it cools.
• reads 1 and 1/4 cups. This means you've added 1 cup oil and 1/4 cup beeswax.
Pour it into a container with a wide enough opening for stirring. As the mixture cools, you'll need to stir it every once in a while to prevent it from separating. It will cool down and thicken around the edges of your container first, so scrape the sides. Stirring just a few times over a couple hours is enough. Stirring will ensure an even, creamy blend of your wood polish. If you don't stir it at all, the center will be oily while the edges will be harder and waxy and it is difficult to blend together once it is fully cooled.
There is a difference in color between my olive oil beeswax polish (below left) and my jojoba beeswax polish (below right). Olive oil based wood polish will often have a slightly greenish cast, but I haven't noticed a significant difference when used on wood. See below for more info on oils you can use.
Use it: Once fully cooled, gather all the wooden items in your house and rub it into the wood. Just a little goes a long way. Wipe off the excess with a cotton cloth and if you have extra on your hands feel free to use it as a lotion, even as a lipbalm. Your hands will be silky smooth. Little ones love to help with this too!
About Oils: I use organic jojoba oil on all the toys that I sell for a variety of reasons but other oils could work well for you. The main reason I stick with jojoba is that the shrub grows natively here and I'm a geek when it comes to sourcing locally. Jojoba oil has a long shelf life so a batch will last a very long time without going rancid. Plus, there is no allergy risk unlike using walnut oil. Olive oil and coconut oil are other options if jojoba oil isn't local or affordable where you are. And walnut oil is perfectly great too if you know your own family has no nut allergies. I do not include mineral oil (although it is perfectly safe to use) simply because it is a petroleum product and not appropriate for toys labeled as eco-friendly.
About Storage: Store it in an airtight container, away from direct sunlight. Jojoba oil based polish will last for two years while olive oil will last one year. If you don't think you will use your polish very fast and are worried it will go rancid, store it in the refrigerator, this doubles the shelf life.
Today I would like to share an easy to create, yet simply amazing beeswax polish. I developed this for polishing a wood drum, but it has many uses. The ingredients included make it safe to use as a polish for any type of wood item, to rehydrate dry skin or even condition leather. The nice thing about this recipe is that it can be made in small batches and does not require a double boiler or even kitchen work space. The final product is a semisolid base that liquefies quickly without becoming greasy. When used on wood, you will need to rub a clean cloth into the finished polish, then apply to the item using circular motions.
1.5 Tablespoons granulated beeswax
3 Tablespoons Jojoba oil
1/4 teaspoon Vitamin E oil
10 drops Lavender essential oil

(These ingredients will create approximately 2 ounces of polish.)


There are a number of recipes for polishes with beeswax as their major ingredient. The final product can be a liquid, cream/paste or a solid block depending on the proportions of each ingredient. The exact proportions in each recipe mentioned are not critical. Vary the amounts of each ingredient to suit yourself. The more solvent you add, the more liquid will be the final product.

Liquid beeswax furniture polish

To make liquid beeswax furniture polish you will need the following ingredients:
1. 50 g pure soap flakes (Any other soap product can be used I have used Dove satisfactorily)
2. 100 g beeswax (shaved/grated)
3. 500 mL turpentine (or White Spirit works just as well)
4. 250 mL water
Dissolve the soap in the warm water in one pan, put the shaved wax into the turpentine in another pan and warm gently until the wax is thoroughly melted and dissolved. Then pour the soap mixture into the turpentine, stirring with a wooden stick. When dissolved and well mixed, pour into the storage jars. When mixing ingredients ensure they are of the same temperature.

Cream or paste beeswax furniture polish

This recipe is simply a mixture of beeswax and a suitable solvent. The less solvent used, the more stiff the mixture. The traditional solvent is pure turpentine and this gives to beeswax polish the scent reminiscent of 'Viks Vapour Rub'. The solvent can be replaced by mineral turps or white spirit. Use:
1. 100 g beeswax
2. 250 mL solvent

Heat solvent in a pan and the beeswax in a separate pan to the same temperature. Pour solvent into wax and stir thoroughly. Pour into prepared containers.

Solid beeswax furniture polish

Use equal parts of:
1. beeswax
2. turpentine
3. linseed oil

Heat the beeswax and add warm turpentine and linseed oil. Stir thoroughly. If this mixture is not solid enough, then either decrease the quantity of turpentine or linseed oil or increase the quantity of beeswax.

Shred beeswax into a convenient container and add other waxes [ if any ] that may be required. Pour on Turpentine to cover the wax and place the whole vessel in hot water so as to melt the wax and help it to mix freely with the Turpentine. The precise amount of turps is not important but the mixture when cool should be the consistency of butter in summer-time.

Shred and heat beeswax and add turpentine. To harden the polish add a small portion of Carnauba Wax, say 1 part to 15.
As above but substitute bleached beeswax. Leave out the Carnauba Wax.
For light polish but add titanium white powder pigment so that a white deposit is left in the grain.
Make as normal polish above and add lamp black powder whilst mixture is still molten. Stir thoroughly. This turns the whole mixture black and when applied to the timber, leaves a black deposit in the grain and in the corners etc. The amount of black is not critical, it should leave a fair black deposit.
Make normal polish but only add half normal amount of Turpentine and top up the mixture with eg. Wattyl Colorwood Stain-Charcoal. Add a small piece of Reckitt's washing blue about the size of a sugar cube, this gives the black an extra intensity and a richer tone.
Mix equal parts of beeswax and carnauba wax. Melt in a tin with gentle heat and add powdered colour to suit the colour of the timber being stopped. Colour should be approximated to that of the timber after staining. Stopping can be heated in a tin and applied with a match stick or rolled into a rod and used with hot iron.
Mix crushed whiting with French polish ( white polish when timber is light ). Paint the depression with French polish and when dry press in the stopping. This will take a spirit stain like the surface of the timber.
60 grams of paraffin wax, 60 grams of beeswax, 300ml. turpentine, 300 ml. boiled linseed oil and 5 mls of eucalyptus oil. Heat until all dissolved , partly cool and pour into suitable containers. To make a softer wax, add more paraffin wax, turps and linseed oil.
30 grams of beeswax, 15 grams paraffin wax, 15 grams of pure soap, 120 ml. turpentine, 120 ml. water and 5 mls of lemon essence.
Grate waxes and pure soap into a saucepan, add turps and water, bring to the boil and add lemon essence. Simmer for ten minutes then remove from heat and stir for five minutes or until cool enough to pour into a bottle.
100 ML. Cider Vinegar, 100 ml. Methylated Spirits, 100 ml. Pure Turpentine and 50 ml. Boiled Linseed Oil. Put all ingredients in a bottle and shake well before use.
Break up into small pieces, white polystyrene foam, cover with Lacquer Thinners & let stand for a few days. Shake occasionally. Keep tightly sealed,
100 grams Brown or Golden Shellac, Methylated Sprits, plus up to 1 tablespoon of White or Yel!ow Beeswax Cover shellac with methylated spirits & when dissolved add wax content. Makes a good general polish on hardwoods & most softwoods, open pores should be sealed first before application.
100 ml Tung Oil,25 ml Boiled Linseed Oil, 1-15 parts selected Beeswax, plus 5% Eucalyptus Oil. Gently heat linseed oil & wax in a double container, let cool, add tung oil & eucalyptus oil. Store in screw top [must be air tight] container & shake well before use.
This makes an excellent high-grade finish on most turned-timber particularly hardwoods or timber with close grain. Let dry, cut back with fine abrasives or fine steel wool & re-apply or repeat the process until the desired finish or result is obtained.

Beeswax Furniture Polish

4 ounces beeswax
2 tablespoons carnauba wax
2 1/2 cups odorless turpentine or mineral spirits

Beeswax Wood Polish/leather Polish
60 g Beeswax granules
300 ml Pure turpentine
25 g Pure soap or soap flakes
150 ml Boiling water
6 dr Essential oil of lavender
Melt the waxes with the turpentine in a double boiler (warning low flash point) Grate the soap into a bowl and pour on the boiling water and stir briskly to dissolve it. Let the soapy water cool slightly and then pour it into the melted wax stirring well as it makes an emulsion. Put in a small jar or container with a tight fitting lid.
Basic Polishing Cream Waxing Formula

• 4 ounces oil (2 1/2 ounces olive oil or jojoba, 1 1/2 ounces coconut oil)
• 1 ounce beeswax
• 1 ounce carnauba wax
• 4 ounces distilled water
Melt the oils and waxes in a double boiler over medium heat. Remove from the heat, pour in the water, and mix with a hand mixer until thick and creamy. Dab some cream onto a soft cotton rag and rub into the furniture. Buff and polish until the oils are well worked into the wood.
Shelf Life: 6 months to a year
It is very easy to make your own furniture polish if you want to skip the chemicals in commercial furniture polishes. There are two ways to make olive oil polish, depending on the level of polishing that your furniture needs. This kind of polish is best used on furniture that has an oiled finish rather than a shiny varnish. It's not a one-size-fits-all solution, but an alternative that some people may find worth trying.
How to Use Essential Oils to Make Furniture Polish
For a beautiful shine and marvelously soothing fragrance, a natural furniture polish is the way to go. And it’s simple to make, using jojoba oil and essential oils.

In the saucepan, place 250g of beeswax, 250ml of gum turpentine (not mineral turpentine) and a splash of boiled linseed oil. Stir the mixture with a clean wooden stick until the ingredients are combined and form a clear liquid.
Boiled Linseed Oil & Beeswax for furniture. Depending on the brand, some "boiled" linseed oils are actually boiled, and others have additives to make them behave like boiled oil. For a more natural finish, check the ingredient list and avoid oils that contain anything other than 100% linseed oil. Typically petroleum based solvents or heavy metal dryers are added to mimic boiled oil. Do not use raw linseed oil, it will turn rancid before it cures. Ace Hardware has a good, 100% boiled linseed oil that is quite affordable, and I get my wax from a local honey farm.

You can also throw in some carnauba wax flakes (no more than 25% of the total wax content) which will produce a much harder, more durable finish. If you add the carnauba, you'll have to heat it to a higher temp to melt it.

Walnut Oil & Beeswax if you have time. This is one of my favorite finishes if you have a long time to let it cure. The walnut oil is slow to dry, but very clear. I use this for breadboards and butcher blocks, but have to let them cure for a couple of weeks before use.

Furniture polish protects and preserves wood furniture, which helps to keep the wood from drying and makes the surface more resistant to scratching. A beeswax-based polish provides a warm shine to antique furniture. Repeated use of beeswax polish coats the wood with a protective shell that preserves the beauty of the piece without harming the finish. You can make your own furniture polish to keep your antique furniture looking its best. Use a solvent like turpentine to dilute the beeswax and transform it into a more paste-like consistency. The turpentine also enhances absorption of the wax into the wood.
• 100 grams beeswax
250 ml turpentine
HP brilliant, still trying to digest all info in the previous post.
Admin sticky this as well.