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seaknight

New Bee
Joined
Nov 3, 2013
Messages
99
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0
Location
Derwydd, Carmarthenshire, UK
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
4
How do commercial beekeepers prevent swarming?
Is it a case of adding lots of extra supers as I heard from one source, are there any other methods?

Where do bee farmers get hive parts, frames and foundation from in bulk?
Is it from the main suppliers' sales, or are there other sources only accessible via the Bee Farmers Association (BFA)?

Thanks.
 
Adding supers won't prevent swarming whether you are a bee farmer or a hobbyist.
 
How do commercial beekeepers prevent swarming?
Is it a case of adding lots of extra supers as I heard from one source, are there any other methods?

Where do bee farmers get hive parts, frames and foundation from in bulk?
Is it from the main suppliers' sales, or are there other sources only accessible via the Bee Farmers Association (BFA)?

Thanks.

Most of all, they select a bee strain which is slow to swarm. Then they inpect every week the hives, and make artificial swarm ifthey find queen cells. Clipping queen wing is one part.

Adding lots of supers does not help, if the hive is normally swarmy.

giving foundations before swarm period helps.
 
Where do bee farmers get hive parts, frames and foundation from in bulk?
Thanks.

There are lots of sources, both domestic and further afield. Don't just focus on the mainline suppliers.

Negotiate hard for volume discounts and walk away from potential suppliers who won't negotiate.

And you certainly don't need to be a member of the BFA to buy sensibly.
 
There are lots of sources, both domestic and further afield. Don't just focus on the mainline suppliers.



Negotiate hard for volume discounts and walk away from potential suppliers who won't negotiate.



And you certainly don't need to be a member of the BFA to buy sensibly.



Sage Advice, negotiation is an art form. Having been in Sales for some time never ceases to fascinate me as to how people differ in their ability. Of course this is only natural but fascinating nonetheless .



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How many colonies do you see yourself managing, being a bee farmer? If you're serious about building your operation into a profitable business, you should investigate making your own equipment. At least bottoms, boxes, crown boards and lids. Here in the States, I can't see the wisdom of buying equipment from the supply houses to build a commercial beekeeping business.
 
How many colonies do you see yourself managing, being a bee farmer? If you're serious about building your operation into a profitable business, you should investigate making your own equipment. At least bottoms, boxes, crown boards and lids. Here in the States, I can't see the wisdom of buying equipment from the supply houses to build a commercial beekeeping business.

I found a local source of CNC cut cedar wood and have built some of my own brood boxes and supers with mixed success, this needs further investigation.
Crown boards and roofs are just as cheap to buy on sale here, as they are to make, although if I could find a cheap source of pre-formed roof metal, I'd make my own. Everything's cheaper in the States! :)
Following the BFA advice in their lecture on Youtube from the UK Tradex convention, I wouldn't be able to manage more than 40-100 without staff support. Since I'm a student at the moment (and will be going into full time healthcare work in 2018), it would be fewer than 100 colonies as an estimate.
I have room for perhaps 40 colonies on my family's 18 acres of land without reaching saturation, although there's physical room for a lot more.
Some local farmer friends have agreed to let me place some hives on their land.
I'm planning to double from 4 colonies to 8 this year (or more if possible) and keep on doubling up, without purchasing additional bees.
The minimum number of colonies for UK Bee Farmers Association (BFA) membership is 40.
 
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How do commercial beekeepers prevent swarming?
Is it a case of adding lots of extra supers as I heard from one source, are there any other methods?

Where do bee farmers get hive parts, frames and foundation from in bulk?
Is it from the main suppliers' sales, or are there other sources only accessible via the Bee Farmers Association (BFA)?

Thanks.
Is it not the same principal regardless of 1 hive or 1 million..
 
Yes although it would be helpful if members shared advice and helped each other, instead of keeping their cards close to their chest!
 
I have 40 hives and I struggle to keep on top of the weeds in the apiary, and that's without managing the hives! I'm self employed so do have a fair amount of free time away from work.
 
What's your method of swarm control?
I'm going to split pre-emptively this year during Easter, since I'll be away again at uni from late April onwards. Some say it's too early, I don't have a choice, so I'm going to try it this way this year, instead of losing swarms and honey in previous years.
 
I found a local source of CNC cut cedar wood and have built some of my own brood boxes and supers with mixed success, this needs further investigation.
Crown boards and roofs are just as cheap to buy on sale here, as they are to make, although if I could find a cheap source of pre-formed roof metal, I'd make my own. Everything's cheaper in the States! :)
Following the BFA advice in their lecture on Youtube from the UK Tradex convention, I wouldn't be able to manage more than 40-100 without staff support. Since I'm a student at the moment (and will be going into full time healthcare work in 2018), it would be fewer than 100 colonies as an estimate.
I have room for perhaps 40 colonies on my family's 18 acres of land without reaching saturation, although there's physical room for a lot more.
Some local farmer friends have agreed to let me place some hives on their land.
I'm planning to double from 4 colonies to 8 this year (or more if possible) and keep on doubling up, without purchasing additional bees.
The minimum number of colonies for UK Bee Farmers Association (BFA) membership is 40.

Having a wife (now retired) and son working at senior level in the NHS, I know they would not have time or indeed energy to work 40hives .
I am close to applying for bee farmers membership and have been advised that membership is no longer reliant on number of hives but being able to show professionalism, accounts etc.
S
 
What's your method of swarm control?
I'm going to split pre-emptively this year during Easter, since I'll be away again at uni from late April onwards. Some say it's too early, I don't have a choice, so I'm going to try it this way this year, instead of losing swarms and honey in previous years.

What if its poor weather or not enough drones around to mate with the virgin queens in your splits? Id wager a large amount, back end of April isnt going to be good for getting queens mated.

To be safe, why not split and introduce mated queens to the queenless side of the split. It would have to be an imported queen at that time of the year but at least you wouldnt risk losing pretty much half of your bees if mating conditions arent right?
 
How do commercial beekeepers prevent swarming?
Is it a case of adding lots of extra supers as I heard from one source, are there any other methods?

Where do bee farmers get hive parts, frames and foundation from in bulk?
Is it from the main suppliers' sales, or are there other sources only accessible via the Bee Farmers Association (BFA)?

Thanks.

No magic trick.. just good and planned management.... no time to poke about in the colony, and the knowledge that loosing bees from swarming is a lost revenue in honey crop.
For some a steep learning curve, particularly in selecting the best bee for your location... and getting rid of ill fitting old hives that fall apart every time you go near them!

Many hive parts as others have pointed out are not that difficult to make... a Winters occupation.
Bee Farmers have negotiated some good deals for their members... but the insurance ( Particularly when and employer and marketeer) is second to none... we cover everything else via NFU farmers policy.
If you are not going to extract and package and sell you own honey... ( yet another trained and skilled workforce + dedicated and inspected kitchen.... our best investment to date an industrial washing machine for bottles with a 60 second cycle! )... find a market for your bulk honey.... margins are very small and then a trailer to take a 1 ton IBC and a vehicle to deliver it!

Best to become a millionaire before taking up Beefarming!

My advice... dig a big pond and fill it with BIG carp.... sit back and take oodles of cash all year around!:icon_204-2:

Despite all of that you are young enough to cope with the 18 hour days and lifting the 40 kg supers full of honey
Best of all it is fun!

Look up Chain Bridge Honey for a good model.... 1000+ Smiths, some polly!

Yeghes da
 
If it's poor weather yes I would have to delay splitting, just get them onto double brood and split in May.
I'm rationalising all my frames, using DN4's in the brood boxes and Manley frames in the supers according to David Cramp's Practical Beekeeping book.
I've fiddled about with brood and a half last year, am planning to get all 4 colonies onto double brood then split them when the weather's right.
Although I am wondering whether to try 14 x 12 instead of single brood?
Shame I've just ordered lots more DN4 frames! I can make 14x12 brood boxes to suit in the summer holidays. It's hard to know what to do for the better.
 
If it's poor weather yes I would have to delay splitting, just get them onto double brood and split in May.
I'm rationalising all my frames, using DN4's in the brood boxes and Manley frames in the supers according to David Cramp's Practical Beekeeping book.
I've fiddled about with brood and a half last year, am planning to get all 4 colonies onto double brood then split them when the weather's right.
Although I am wondering whether to try 14 x 12 instead of single brood?
Shame I've just ordered lots more DN4 frames! I can make 14x12 brood boxes to suit in the summer holidays. It's hard to know what to do for the better.
:hairpull:
Decide on a system and stick with it!

Needs to be said that big colonies are needed for decent honey crops.
we have been "playing" with the Rose Hive System... what appeals is that a box can be placed between the brood to increase.
The OSB will be used for breeding as it lends itself to it... some it seems are so impressed that they are gradually replacing all of their kit with it.

Will the Manley frames go in your exactor... my 40 frame will not take them as for 14 x 12... double brood is in fact easier on the back, even brood + 1/2 saves time in swarm cell season!( but that leads to more questions than answers!)
Yeghes da
 
Yes good advice, thanks :)
Manley and BS Deep frames do fit in my 9 frame radial stainless steel manual extractor (a motor is on the wish list!), not sure about 14 x 12 though...
I had considered doing away with supers and using brood boxes as supers, although they would be very heavy!
Last year I managed to get the extractor, uncapping tray and electrically heated knife in the Thornes sale. I'd like to get an uncapping machine, filling machine with turntable and an Api Melter, although that's a long way off!
 
How do commercial beekeepers prevent swarming?
.

Holistic beekeeping butt, a bit of taking strength from the chargers to use in the queen rearing, a few artificial swarms if theyre at the right stage when you spot them wanting to swarm, marking queens that want to swarm for replacement and keeping ahead of their space requirements especially through May and June .
 
Holistic beekeeping butt, a bit of taking strength from the chargers to use in the queen rearing, a few artificial swarms if theyre at the right stage when you spot them wanting to swarm, marking queens that want to swarm for replacement and keeping ahead of their space requirements especially through May and June .

Thanks
 

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