Autumn Varroa treatment

[Ian123]

Ian, it's the "wide range of products" and times that's my problem. Our longest-standing local beek "never uses OA" [I think he meant sublimation] and we have an even longer-standing, though wobbling a bit these days, member of local BKA who seems not to treat for varroa at all these days. Although I don't trust "varroa trays", and therefore cannot be sure, I suspect we don''t have much, if any, varroa up here in the eastern highlands. None on the west, for sure.
So -- should I treat? When I kept sheep etc, a local ag chappie made sure I treated them correctly and at certain times of year. Never ever seen a bee inspector......

Hi Jim
I’d suggest if other members are treating then you’d need to. As for not treating some don’t but management or even lack of can keep numbers low to a point.
Late flows like heather and treatment after will reduce options and negates Thymol type treatment. Unless colonies are treated/prepared before after any main crop is removed.
Chemical strips are Apistan or Apivar…. There’s a couple of other names out there but it’s the same stuff. I’d avoid the Apistan as resistance was showing early 2000s, Apivar will likely go the same way if it’s not already done so. Still appears effective for most!

Oxalic comes in strips can be vaped or trickled, you probably just want to consider strips or vaping. Strips can be used anytime in the active season as vaping. Trickled is only effective during brood less times. So possibly splits or swarms.
As you say you have a vape then 3 times over 5 day intervals and perhaps even a 4th if you are still getting a high drop.

 

[Sutty]

Just checked my records & I started mid September which I feel is later than recommended but that's when the supers came off!
I did multiple treatments - some more than 3 when still big drops & had no winter losses from 10 hives except 1 already dwindling hive I put in a nuc box.
Perhaps I should be doing it now, but taking the supers off to treat makes it more of a chore.

 

[jimmiestan]

Thanks.

 

[hemo]

I will vape from the 28th and then carry out two further vapes into early Setember Depending on the mite drop , I decide if they need another one or not. If drones are present then they will get a fourth.

The issue after that is possible reinfestation from non treaters who don't monitor their bees or simply don't give a toss, so early October they often have a one off to check mite levels.

Winter bees should be being produced from Sept to November slowly replacing the short lived spring /summer bee.

 

[Beth]

Can I get clarification on brood breaks please. I had 3 hives swarm in June ( travel for family issues prevented dealing with them) and all brood frames were completely empty for a few weeks. All queens mated and hives have built up well now with good stores.

Does the absence of brood get rid of mites? Surely they can hang about waiting a few weeks for egg laying to start again? I have maqs but don't want to crack the boxes if not required. They are all mental for sealing things down and bridging brood frames ( yes spacing is correct!) and taking the half brood off is an unpleasant task for all concerned.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Does the absence of brood get rid of mites?

No. They just hang around feeding on bees till there is brood.
The level will be lower of course.
Broodless time is ideal to oav in one hit.

 

[Beth]

Thanks, I think I'll take the supers off in a few weeks and maq them all.

 

[Ian123]

Can I get clarification on brood breaks please. I had 3 hives swarm in June ( travel for family issues prevented dealing with them) and all brood frames were completely empty for a few weeks. All queens mated and hives have built up well now with good stores.

Does the absence of brood get rid of mites? Surely they can hang about waiting a few weeks for egg laying to start again? I have maqs but don't want to crack the boxes if not required. They are all mental for sealing things down and bridging brood frames ( yes spacing is correct!) and taking the half brood off is an unpleasant task for all concerned.

As Dani says brood breaks won’t get rid of mites but it can reduce numbers.
There’s obviously a natural die off, bees will remove some. Some will leave the hive and long periods without brood affect female mite fertility I believe.
I did come across some you tube presentation showing this but can’t remember were
It’s a reason small wild colonies and unmanaged hives can hang on in some cases.
Go ahead and treat your hives as it will put them in better condition for Wintering.
However be careful with the maqs many report issues, I’ve not used it myself but it often appears to cause issues. I’d suggest asking a separate question and hope for advice from those that have used the product.

 

[North End Bees]

However be careful with the maqs many report issues, I’ve not used it myself but it often appears to cause issues.

I've used maqs in the past.
Daytime temperatures have a significant effect on outcomes.
The manufacturer recommends using between 10° and 29°c.
10° is probably fine but will be less effective, especially if nights are cold that week.
Temps in the high 20s is when people often have problems with Q failure or absconding.

You need plenty of ventilation with maqs which is why a lot of people prefer to use it in the spring if their winter treatment hasn't been entirely successful rather than in autumn when wasps are going to be a problem.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Thanks, I think I'll take the supers off in a few weeks and maq them all.

I wouldn’t. You need space for MAQS which is why you do it with supers on. Lots of people, including me, report queen losses with it.

 

[hemo]

Next week is expected to be warmer and drier with mid 20's + temps so before I vape fully the following week, I shall sugar roll a couple cups full of bees from each hive in two sample tests to gauge the mite levels.

Equally a one off vape on a sticky board will give an idea of mites.

I have been lazy this year and not carried out any sugar rolls yet to determine any mite loads.