I wouldn’t buy one though. Primarily because of the handling disadvantages
Dartington - OK, I have 2.
No particular handling problems. Yes, you work from the side. There is plenty of room. Height is adjustable - shorten the legs if it is too high or stand it on something if it is too low (or fit new legs). No Different to a hive stand for a National really.
If you don't mind extracting 14 x 12s, production might well be about the same as for a National. There is no particular reason why it should be less. DIFFERENCE is you won't be so likely to cart it off to the OSR or heather for the extra benefits of mobile beekeeping.
Advantages:
Less disturbance with inspections.
Easy swarm control (it was not really designed for 2 separate colonies, other than during the swarming season).
Smaller lifting weights (except the roof, maybe).
Loads of brood space.
Easy to follow instructions for the beekeeping year.
Smaller coverboards - need less open at times.
Very warm for bees in winter (if brood area is insulated on the sides and top like mine).
Light supers (1/2 supers).
Easy to remove frames for inspection - loads of space to turn the frames sideways.
Easy to separate frames into groups for easy queen hunting.
Cheap materials to make them (if you can get scrap ply packaging for eg.)
Sections cut to size and screwed together - no wood-working joints other than the simplest butt joint.
Top bee space
Disadvantages:
Size
Coverboards - too small (so? I can cut some larger ones)and fiddly to get in the right place and have to be positioned more carefully than a vertical hive.
Roof - large, clumsy and heavy (but could be made in two sections)
Honey is stored in 14 x 12s as well as shallow National frames.
14 x 12s need to be extracted tangentially.
Vertical dividers are a pain -design suggests kitchen scouring pads, as seals, to separate the two sides, the bottom clearance needs some modifications.
Supers made in ply, which tends to have a 'crown' on the 'front' face, so supers have a gap making it difficult to put them on without crushing bees (which tend to climb up the outer sides).
Portability.
Time consuming to make just one hive at a time.
Painted - not just left, or one coat of preservative from time to time like cedar.
I would not want more than two for a hobby. I think they are good in most respects and make a suitable blend with my Nationals which can be moved easier (14 x 12 broods are not exactly easy though!).
They do make beekeeping for a garden easy.
I tried the concept (with one hive) and I have built a second. They will continue to be used. They have a niche in my beekeeping activities. Inspections are easier because you don't have to lift down sections, onto an up-turned roof - the 1/2 supers are simply stood on the other cover boards, if necessary, or at/on the ends of the hive on runners.
I have added a few bits - runners, to slide under a floor board if necessary and the sheet of ply for that floor, deeper roof (for more winter insulation), thick, insulated dummies and dividers which actually fairly well seal the brood area at the top.
The thing is, the concept is good, although any of the disadvantages might put off a potential user. They were also quite expensive to buy compared to a collection of National boxes which are easier to mix and match.
I certainly wouldn't have bought one - Nationals from Thorne's winter sales are such good value.
The main drawback I find is that you don't need that extra space if the colony is not about to swarm, so there is wasted space for most of the year. Practically, beekeeping takes up far more space than just the colonies, so does that really matter?
Some National parts can be used, although dimensionally the Dartington is 15mm wider - I use National supers - just need to be sure the roof seals OK (wider runners in the roof).
With regards to the plastic cool box - I just think that half a grand for a bee enclosure is too much for most beekeepers. It may work better than the wooden predecessor, as tolerances should be closer. We shall see. Roll on a competitive offering (comparable to the normal vertical wooden hive) IF it works OK. The poly hive, fitted into a plastic box, as a housing, would probably be as good or better option than half a grand......(my thoughts)
I actually took my Dartington (with colony) to our Association apiary earlier this year. Just for a weekend demo. I will not be doing it again!
BTW I no longer use WBCs, I have no plans to use standard National broods again and any remaining standard bodies will have ekes fitted for 14 x 12. But things could change as I am tempted to try a couple of poly hives. I like top space, too.
Regards, RAB
